UPDATE:

So in the past 3 days i've ordered:

Silicone Vac hose and some highly rated fuel line from Amazon. Dual alt pulley and belts from Banzai. 6th port inserts from Atkins and i took a page out of @infernosog build and got vacuum block to clean the engine bay up with.

On the note of wheels... I got ahold of the guy i bought the car from. He finally admitted that he couldn't find them and then assured me that he would find em a set. So i told him I found a set for $300 (ended up being $400 shipped) and asked him to comp me at least half of that and i haven't heard back from him. Lesson learned i guess. If i would have been thinking about it I would have with held $400 cash when i picked the car up and told him I'd give him the rest when he delivered the wheels. Oh well. At least i'll have a set of stock ones tomorrow.

Once the inserts and pulley/belts arrive ill go ahead with finishing up the emission delete and get everything buttoned back up.

Plans after that are to order caliper rebuild kits, paint calipers, and install new Hawk HPS pads that a friend gave me on the cheap.

Find a good block when blowing the pistons out and Careful with the fingers!!!

Got these in the mail to day. Gonna get them cleaned up and then mount tires.

Nice, I like those. Those are from a S5 GXL aren't they?

No they are S5 turbo/GTUS wheels

So I got the Atkins 6 port inserts in. But in the process broke one of my OMP lines. I'd really like to do something more sturdy for them instead of just buying new ones that are gonna get brittle and break again. I had the idea to do steel braided lines for them. I'm sure I'm not the first person to think about that but I'm wondering if anyone knows of a pre made set?

I has a set of the previous braided made one's. Never been used. I forgot what buy I got them on. One end is pressed in, while other end is loose to be able to trim to fit.

Are you suggesting you'll sell them to me?

If you want them. Been sitting in box since at least 10. Might as well go to a good home.

I sent you a pm

Alright so I got some SS OMP lines from RotorSports and got them installed. Should be able to get everything back together pretty quickly now.

UPDATE:

Everything is back together and the car fires up. I ended up putting in a new radiator as well. Just FYI for anyone following this. The fan shroud doesn't fit properly after the install despite the fact that it was supposed to be a drop in replacement.

Anywho.... Like I said, the car fires right up but won't stay running on its own even after it reaches operating temp. I suppose I have a big vacuum leak somewhere but I'm not really sure where to start looking. Any thoughts?

Any ideas? DJ and I found a huge vac leak. I was hoping that was the issue but i plugged it and its still the same issue. Car starts right up but only runs if my foot is on the gas. Even after being warmed up.

Bad sensor? Like a TPS or AFM?

I have a LED tester I made years ago for what I believe is for testing the TPS, I can bring it to your house in exchange for pizza & beer :)

Oh, you can test the AFM with a DVOM, you will just need to know what the specs are, I imagine these numbers are in the service manual.

I suppose it could be either... its just seems unlikely to me since they didnt really get used or have any kind of damage when i pulled them off.

done. just need to figure out a good weekend. Maybe this sunday afternoon? whats your work schedule?

I don't know what a DVOM is ...... :dunno:

Digital Volt Ohm Meter?

We'll check them both, adjustment is important too.



I'm always busy. . Aside from usually working six nights a week, I usually have something booked for every Saturday. Oh, then there's Sundays, Sundays can eat a bag of dicks, I have to rest for work on Sundays so the latest I stay up is around 3. . . Which translates to no daydrinking for this guy :o21:



Digital voltage/ohm meter

Just pick a day and I'll make it work because working around my schedule isn't the easiest.

TPS would not cause it to stall out like that. AFM would though.... as would bad plugs.

guess ill go get MAF cleaner and plugs then!

MAF cleaner will do nothing for an AFM. AFM is just a door and the sensor measures resistance and figures how far open it is to calc airflow.

Oh wait.... S5 right?

S5 is still an AFM; the guts of it still uses a variable resistor. Instead of a hinged flapper door like the S4's use to change the resistance with airflow, the S5's use a sliding cone to do the same thing. S4 & S5 AFMs are not interchangeable; different electrical resistance vs. airflow curves and connector pin outs.

Yes S5.

So... I have the VDI open now. I thought that would help. Doesn't seem to have done anything for me. I just did a little looking around on the other forum and found out that the VDI doesn't have to be open all the time anyway.


The only other thing I found is that there is a vacuum nipple for the injectors that is supposed to help with atomization. I can't recall if I have that connected to a vac source or not though but im not sure that would cause my issues.

I'm truly at a loss now.

Getting closer. Adjusted the throttle cable. That helped some. It will actually run a little with out my foot on it but still dies after a few seconds.

Slow going but i replaced plugs and wires last night. Seemed to help a bit but still no dice. AFM next? Coils?

We have some coils we can swap in. Also, unhook the AFM from the airbox and have someone push the cone in a little when you start the car. If that makes a drastic difference, we might have found a winner. I think you can also unplug it altogether, and if it idles, but doesn't rev, it's also bad.

Great suggestion, but he doesn't even need to go that far. Just remove the airbox lid, remove panel filter (assuming still all stock airbox & filter). Then he can reach in with a finger & move the AFM cone.

You don't want to move it all that much - if you push it too far in, the car should go pig rich & stall if it's idling.

An S5 won't run with the AFM unplugged; not sure if it will even start that way.

Yeah its all stock. Looks like ill need some extra hands..... if you know what I mean.

If that is left open, it'll cause a vac leak which could be the problem

Not to be the bearer of bad news but after seeing those plugs, it's time for a compression test.

its there isn't a hole in the manifold. I was trying to wire the actuator open and the retainer came off so the actuator isn't there anymore. I was told it needed to be in the open position.



So the plugs had to have been like that when I drove the car home. And it was running great before emissions removal... so I guess im not understanding why compression would be bad?

I wasn't referring to the VDI crap, I was referring to the airbleed for the injectors.

It looks to me like the electrode broke off. I would pull the plugs and do a quickie audible comp test

Ah ok. Well I guess I need to take it all apart again then.


The thought crossed my mind that it broke off. But after looking at it some more it doesn't really look broken. No jagged edges or anything. When I do an audible comp test what should it sound like?

should sound like all compression pulses sounding the same and equally times

You should hear a regular rhythm of loud POP-POP-POP's as long as you're cranking it. If there's a silent gap between the POPs rhythm, (e.g. POP-hiss-POP, or something like that), you got some broken seals.

Disagree on the electrode breaking off. Looks more like its just been there way, way, way way way way too long.

But we'll do a poor mans comp test to see what's up.

I've never seen one burned away that much and I dare say m plugs go through more abuse :rofl:

Abused, but also probably changed as often as your undies.