Thanks for the feedback, and yes my overthinking things is a common theme. I had a night to sleep on it. I tried calling a friend who's torn down a few engines to see if he had any spacers. Nope he doesn't.

I'm gonna see if any machine shops are open today and see about getting my spacer shaved down a few .001. I doubt I'll find any open so I'm also thinking about simply sanding it down with a block and measuring it with some dial calipers.

Make sure and get it square if you do so. If you change the length of the spacer, you should really change the letter label on it too, so that someone doesn't get confused in the future.

I have 3 spacers and they are all K's

Too much endplay is much better than not enough. Not enough usually means that the front thrust bearing is not centered on the spacer.

I'm thinking the same thing about keeping it square. Originally I was thinking I'd take some scrap wood and use a hole bore drill bit to make a trough for it to sit in. Then use a sanding block. None of my hole bits are the right size. Rather than go out to the store (I'm 20 min. drive each way from anything) I'm gonna set it on a flat surface and sand the top side of it. I've got some dial calipers and am going to take some measurements at different points for before and after.

If I screw it up I'm no worse off in the long run. I won't put it on if it doesn't measure square. I can't use it as-is.

I thought of the same thing with marking it, but am not sure what to mark it with. I don't have anything to engrave it with. Paint will come off. I've taken all kinds of notes and kept a picture archive. That way if I ever sell the car or engine the buyer has a record showing I did a quality job on the rebuild and any other little details they or I might need down the road.

I came in to check measurements on the spacers so I can start sanding this down. Who knows, if I butcher this I may be back in putting up a "Want to buy" thread for narrower spacers :P

Came in to take a beer break and announce that sanding worked. I've got written down how much I took off the spacer, more important I measured on 6 points around the spacer and it's all even. Most important end play is .0021

Awesome, glad that you got it fixed!

hey what did you use to paint the engine irons, housings, and plenum?

Thanks, though I've been so busy with work that the project is moving very slowly. I hate it when real life gets in the way of my fun time. I just got home from putting in 8 hours after my 8-5 shift. We've got a special event going on in a couple days and the boss and I are putting in mad hours making sure it goes smoothly. I'll be there late tomorrow and the next day. I might put in a half day on Saturday just to catch up on things that are falling behind because of prep for the special event.

Irons and housings are rattle can high temp paints. I used high temp primer and I used aluminum primer for the housings. I also put a couple coats of clear on.

The plenums, block-off plates, front cover, pulleys, water pump housing, turbo compressor housing, turbo charge pipe, and inlet ducting are all powder coated. Oh I've also got an Infini IV bar that I have the ends powder coated. Eventually I'll get the actual bar as well as a spare set of 4 piston brakes powder coated.

are you sure that's Hot Wheels? i have a Matchbox car (when they were still quality made in Lesney) and i think that's what that is. i remember my sister and i burying one car each by my mother's job when we were kids and then i bought another one after i got into Rx-7s. sometimes i still think of going by my Mom's old job and trying to dig it up - only thing is i may get arrested by Homeland security. LOL. :)

good stuff in this thread!

Thanks, I've got some more pics and progress but haven't taken the time to upload the pics. Engine is assembled, I worked out the vacuum and fuel plumbing yesterday. I made new OMP/MOP hoses. I cleaned the engine bay a little bit throughout the week. Got a new ACT clutch kit on and I'm doing the transmission today. Hopefully the engine goes in today.

The car is on the work bench...and you are correct. It is a Matchbox. About digging it up, I think you should definitely do it today...make sure you wrap a towel around your head beforehand for added effect.

Slowly between work and more work I'm getting things done.

I made new OMP/MOP hoses..Don't know why the first pic rotated?? I know some people leave the hoses bare rather than put the sleeving back on so that they can see whether oil is traveling through them. But I think I can see enough at the top before they go under the UIM. That and eventually I'll be putting woven cable sleeving over everything. Wanted to keep that theme.
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This broke taking the hoses off. I plugged it with some RTV and a tiny screw. I've removed most of the vacuum solenoids so I'm simply tapping off an unused nipple on the UIM for the other OMP/MOP injector.
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Blurry but you get the idea
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My goal was to have the engine in yesterday. BUT I took the n/a engine to a friends shop for eventual teardown. It's 20min. away and I apparently lost my studs for the a/c and p/s adapter. I spent a good amount of time yesterday first driving to get a engine mount bracket. Then learning I needed the studs. Then getting there and realizing that I needed the nuts so I could do the double nut stud removal trick. Leaving now to put the finishing touches on and HOPEFULLY put the engine in.

Transmission is bolted on. A/C and P/S is bolted on. Gotta figure out which of my 4 engine mounts are in best shape and I should be good to go.

I'm going to make a separate thread cause I don't know how many people actually look at this...but here is a question I've come up with.....

When removing the duty/boost solenoid should I depin it from the ECU? And should I remove it at all?

My build is in my signature. S5 JDM engine, N370 Rtek 1.7, RB REV TII exhaust, Hallman MBC. I've removed all the solenoids accept the PRC. I've got the rats nest on but with vacuum caps on everything no longer used.

I'm planning to depin 2M which is the VDI on N/A and knock on turbos. Should I depin 3R (Duty/Boost Solenoid)? Or with the Rtek should I be keeping the boost solenoid intact?

I've seen the other thread, but I'll reply here...

It is my understanding that the (stock) ECU looks for resistance in the circuit.
If it doesn't see the required resistance, it triggers an error code.
Your plan of depinning the wiring harness should end up throwing an error code...
The good side is that this doesn't trigger some ugly limp-home mode - it just causes the CHECK ENGINE light to come on.


-Ted

Thanks Ted. So ideally I want to keep the ECU pinned. And also keep the solenoid plugged in, but cap the vacuum. That keeps it from doing anything?

I'll have to do a little research. I once knew what needed changed from N/A harness to turbo harness but have forgotten it. I thought depining would solve those problems.

Soooo close to trying to get it to turn over.

1. I had to order spark plugs...I should be able to pick them up today after wrok.
2. I have to top off transmission fluid. It burns my ass that I need 2.5 liters and the bottles come in 1 liter. I had a cheap moment and held off on buying a 3rd bottle of Royal Purple fluid....$60 for tranny fluid makes me cringe.
3. Obviously I have a couple electrical/ECU issues to work out.
4. I need a fuse for my efan
5. Gotta work out vacuum hoses for my MAP, boost gauge and OEM BOV...speaking of which I have a question that I'll post a pic about.

I've read about using restrictor pills for boost gauges to keep them from bouncing and MAP for even readings at the ECU. I've stolen these off the previous N/A engine. Is there any reason why I can't use these check valves?

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