Ive got a few hundred break-in miles on the motor now.

I found out this morning that the 550's I had in the secondaries weren't enough for this beast. I think somethings actually wrong with them. "Getting on it" you could hear knocking like crazy, but the afrs were good.

So I swapped them with the 720s I had for my turbo.
Jamin adjusted the whole tune for the 720s, now its much better.
But there is still a little knocking when you put it to the floor, afrs around 13's.
So it needs a little more tuning.

So I found out what was causing the knocking. It was my secondary coil. Unplugged it. No knocking at all any more. We were able to tune it all the way up to the 8k rev limiter.

We gonna see you at B3R with this car? I hope so. Good luck.

So we've been trying to figure out the issue with the secondary coils.
I tried two extra coils I had.
Swapped in the 1st one, and it still knocks.
Then, swapped in the 2nd coil, and still knocks.
So the problem had to be something with the timing of the secondary coils.
We checked the timming and all the wires to the coils. All checked out but the timming on the secondary coil was a little backwards.
I think there's something screwed up with the ecu.
Anyway I installed another primary coil inplace where the secondary coils go. And hooked them up with the main primary coil, so they fire at the same time, 0-split.
Still need to give them a proper test drive though.


Also over the weekend I discovered a problem.
I was driving it home from a car meet.
I noticed it started idling poorly and it would even die on me (3 times).
I try to rev it up, it would rev slowly.
It had no power.
It sounded like it was running on one rotor.
It was backfiring a lot too.
I thought it blew a seal.
So I was going to just limp it home, but after a few miles the motor came back to life.
Ran fine the rest of the day.
That happened 2 other times over the weekend.
If you just rev it up and hold it around 4k rpm it'll clear up and run like normal.
So I think my front iron coolant-seal-land broke through again.

So the coil setup I have now works good. No problems.

Also that weird running issue I had turn out to be fouled spark plugs. I clean em, it runs good.

Holy 2 years ago batman!

Sooo Update!

I cant believe this thing still runs! Bwahahahahaha!!!
So about the beginning of the summer 2015 my subaru broke down (timming belt), and I started driving the rx7, DAILY! Yeah!
Ive been avg 14mpg, lol. That's the only drawback.

There has been an issue with the fuel pump wiring, FP would just die on me randomly, I found out it was due to a poor connection at the fuse block, so i bought a new fuse block, will install soon.

I also got rid of the RB mufflers and Y pipe. I got sick of exhaust leaks every so often. So I took an apexi n1 muffler and pipe I had, welded that to the RB presilencer. Now there's only 2 gaskets throughout. Ironically the n1 muffler is louder than the RB mufflers.

Math update: 3 years ago.

LOL

Glad it's still going well for you. Aren't RB mufflers usually quieter than other exhausts, especially the N1?

LOL, you said it. . I was thinking the same thing ;)

Dyno results!
 

Finally! I got this car dyno'd.

So I think for what I have done to this motor, It should have made more.
My brother touched up the tune on it 2 weeks ago.
To recap, the motor has every port ported, pretty large street port on all the irons including bridge ports on the end irons, I opened up the exhaust ports a little too.
9.7 comp rotors
RB header with pre-silencer, welded to an Apexi N1 muffler
Haltec e6k, 720 sec inj, no maf. I am running all the coils at the same time with no split, for some reason it wont run right with split.
No emissions, no ac, no ps.
Nopi stage 2 carbon kevlar street clutch.

So here it is:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMG_0453_1.jpg
Black lines are a 4th gear pull, blue is 3rd gear.
Looks like 25hp over stock.
The curves resemble exactly how I describe my butt dyno, nothing under 3k rpm, turns into a animal after 5k rpm.
Might be small animal but still an animal, lol.

I hate to break it to you, but my little stock 12A will gives yours a run for the money. My 12A dynoed at 134whp before I redid the ignition, switched to a RB SP exhaust and now
have a hogged out nikki. I expect it to be a little higher next time I dyno it and the torque
to be flat across the entire range. That nikki is awesome when its hogged out.

If you BP that 13B shouldn't you be at about 170whp or more?

Depends on the dyno. I dyno'ed countless IT cars, "stock" S5's and they were almost always between 180-185. There were a few outliers, a helltech e6whatever doing low 170's. Then there was the cream de la rotary, Speed1's ITS car. Stock port (which almost none of the other IT cars were stock ports.... idling @ 1200rpm pulling 15" of vac is NOT a stock port :rofl:) but everything was port matched, I mean EVERYTHING, runners and bowls cleaned up. S5 rotors, clearanced, lightened, and balanced. Meecrowreck whatever.
Can't remember the total advance but L was around .9L and that bitch put down 196 on a dynojet. Left it there overnight and went back the next morning - 196. This can't be right, left it on the dyno till the end of the day and did another pull - 196 all three times.... damn

Took the 7 up to sandblast rally to spectate Saturday.
Finally have some hwy mpg #'s
Gets 21 hwy, 13 city.

That's not too bad, not for our cars anyway. I think I get about 19 highway, but that's headed uphill to 6000ft.

19-20...... stock port 8 or 500hp fc, don't matter lol