Yeah, I'm really happy (and a bit embarrassed) that it was such a simple problem.

It's been so damned long since my FD worked right that I forgot what kind of fuel economy they got!!!

That's good news man, now for the bad news, buy a new fuel pump and fuel filter.... that 044 is now garbage and there will be small bits of fuel pump lodged in the filter..... they will not tolereate being run dry or run w/too much vacuum..... sorry homer...

Fuuuu..... How long ya think I've got before the pump completely craps out? It still pushes 43psi no problem. Think it can wait until the power tune? Or at least be useful for short (15-20 mile) trips while I wait for a new one to arrive?

What power did the car make during break in tuning? I'd say the pimp issue is a time bomb.. It may go months it may not work tom. I've killed pumps before and not known it for weeks until im stranded somewhere...

Partial throttle made 112whp/100tq.

That friggin SUCKS!! Bianca is gunna kill me when I tell her I gotta spend $200 on replacing a fuel pump... =(

Hmm... thinking about it... you think I should replace my 044 with something different? Since I'll be going inline, and buying a new pump, anyway I might as well... thoughts/suggestions?

So your FD at partial throttle makes more than your Miata does at full throttle! :)

That's what it looks like! lol :lol:

There's not enough time to do your swirl pot before DGRR. If you get something that you need a swirl pot for, your car won't make Deals Gap.

Yeah, I just found a (lightly) used 044 over on the evil forum. It's getting shipped to me this afternoon. Direct drop-in replacement ftw

Levi, with that car nothing is "drop-in" It will take it's ounce of flesh or fist full of money like nobody's business!

Lol, very true! At least I won't need to drive up to Speed1 for it though.

Attachment 13117

Attachment 13118

Attachment 13119


Here you go Levi. I forgot to past these up for you Sunday.

ok..... We know the pump is bad.... why chance it? I wouldn't drive it until a new pump goes is... but that's me

Second... why are you seeing 43 psi? I set FPSI @ 35 when we got the thing started in January.... did you change the base pressure?

The 044 IS an inline pump....

Motherfucking that

Aw shit... if you wanted a lightly used 044, you should've told me, I would've given you mine... Only used for like a month and one dyno.. of course it flows less than a stock TII pump (I flow tested it) Or, I could get you the FuelLab pump I just put in that has like 20 minutes of run time on it..... that one won't pull a prime, or I could scrougne around for the Aeromotive pump that has maybe a few houras on it that won't hold pressure.....

Lightly used.... fuck that noise... flow test that shit before you turn the key.... can't trust anything or anyone.... cavitate these pumps or run them dry and they're garbage....

Truff....

How noisy was that pump compared to mine?

The same..... I would still like to put a small intank pump in your car keep that fuel lab thing fed and happy.... btw - parts showed today I BELIEVE.... still need to open box...

Its 9AM and the boxes aren't even open... what are you guys? Some kind of government workers sitting around scratching your balls and drinking coffee 7 until 10 only to go to lunch at 11:30, come back around 1 and then hit the gym at 2:30 before you head home? Oh wait....

The new pump should be in this weekend. I'm keeping the tank topped up now and I'm only "chancing it" 5-10 miles from home. And because heat cycles :Angel_anim:

It didn't want to idle right at 30psi (we were only seeing about 30psi) that saturday we brought it up. Vlad bumped it up to 40-43psi and it idled happily. I've got no qualms with running it at 35psi, but if it won't idle...

I'm getting it from silverfdturbo6port on the other forum. He says he ran it inline (with a swirl pot) for a couple hundred miles before deleting it for a dual intank setup that he wants to use for his 20B. It can't be any worse than the one I've got (been in tank for easily over 4 years now).

How would I flow test it?

He's assured me that it never ran dry, if it turns out otherwise... I'm sure I could work something out.

:toetap05:

I set it @ 35 base psi in january for a reason... if ya changed it, I wish you had told me, now what was done on saturday morning needs to be redone. There's no reason to run a boosted car @ 42.5 psi or 3bar base fuel pressure, especially with the amount of injector you have.... it just kills pumps quicker. I'm thinking of turning mine down to 30psi base and it will idle somewhere around 22psi and probably drop to ~17psi on hard decel....

Turning it up to 43psi and running 25psi of boost nets ~70psi of rail pressure.... pumps don't flow very well under higher pressures and the Bosch is notorious for cavitating... hell.... that pump could've been what puked 3 engines... just saying... whatever did frag 3 engines was never found.... we just assumed it was PFS and his shitty building and porting and that bullshit PFC and joke of a CDI known as the twin nopower...

I've got a Bosch 044 that was used for probably about the same, maybe less and I guarauntee it's worse....

Take a 5 gallon jerry can go to the gas station
buy 5 gallons of gas
mark where on the tank 5 gallons is
remove return line from fuel tank top and insert into jerry can
Set base pressure to 43.5.... oh wait :rofl:
jump fuel pump and time how long it takes to pump 5 gallons
MATH
Compare calcs to Bosch specs.
turn up to 72psi and repeat

Yup... and we have a customer here that bought a used Blitz Dual SBC boost controller and he was assured that it worked just fine.... he boost spiked to well over 30psi on the dyno..... when asked where he got it
scubie forum
why was the guy selling it
becuase it wouldn't control the boost on his subie
but it's a BOOST CONTROLLER
Yeah but something about the subies....
some wierd mystical turbo that only subaru knows how to regulate boost on??!?!?! :willy_nilly:

I'll do that once the pump gets in and let ya know my readings =)

Kewl.... @ 3bar it should flow about 67gph and about 53gph @ 72 psi

So it'll flow LESS fuel the higher the pressure is? That's kinda 'tarded... One would hope that it would flow more fuel as it works harder (to a certain extent).

Pressure resists flow ;)

Yup.. thats why you pay the big bucks for good fuel pumps. Or just run two 044s :)

I think I'll be able to make due, with my power goals, by running one 044 inline after a swirl pot. Until I swap ECU's and turn the power up the single, in tank, 044 should suffice (only hoping/expecting 390whp-415whp at wastegate).

That.... pumps are working harder, they're just putting less out.... and sucking more amps, which leads to heat, which leads to resistance, which leads to voltage drops, which leads to decreases fuel flow, which when coupled with ECU's that don't log FPSI or have a way to comp for it leads to engines that like to shat themselves......

Value hearing, you do not.... Hate those fucking pumps.... hate the FuelLAbs even more for that reason.... quite my ass....

FWIW I made 540 RWHP w/a single Aeromotive stealth intank fuel pump on a BW running 24psi....

I would be surprised if you touched 400 with that turbo @ 13psi.... I'm thinking 380-390 is more like it....

That makes sense.

I've been running my guestimates on about 14psi, but even so I'd be super stoked with 380-390 at 13psi. It's gunna be more than I'd be able to (legally) use on the local roads anyway :icon_tup:

That's because local roads are parking lots..... Foot power might be faster most days.

Seriously... lol


Aaaannndddd.... It looks like I've got a new shopping list. Fixing my exhaust this time...

The reason why I say that is because the v-band flange used to make my exhaust doesn't match up that well with the flange on my turbo, the result is that I have a bit of an exhaust leak where the turbo meets the downpipe.

We'll remedy that leak and fix the lack of flex couplers in my DP/WG pipe all at once. I'll also switch from the crappy slip-joint that PFS used to connect my DP to my MP, replacing that with another v-band connection.

Shopping list being:

1x Vibrant Flexible Exhaust Couplings (4"x8") w/ Interlock Liner - $100.55
1x Vibrant Flexible Exhaust Couplings (1.75"x4") w/ Interlock Liner - $24.90
1x Vibrant V-Band Flange/Clamp Assembly - Stainless Steel Flanges (4") - $91.30
1x Precision Turbo and Engine V-Band Turbine Discharge Flange for PTE V-Band inlet/outlet Turbine Housings - $49.99
1x Precision V-Band Clamp - 3.00" - $24.99

We'll need to wait until I get a bit more funding before addressing these little toys.. Brian, please let me know if I'm missing something

Aside from none of the links working :rofl:

One of these in a 1.75"
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...l-Bends-304-SS
get a foot of this
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...ory/1-75-1-3-4
One of these - discharge obviously
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...langes-304L-SS
and one of these - discharge again
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...stegate-Clamps
and money.... lots of money for ME!!

Tha fuck... that's strange... the first two pasted in wrong... ah-well, got them sorted.


So we're completely redoing the WG (re)routing? cool beans, I thought we'd just be adding a flex coupler to what Ray did. Works for me though, as I'm sure it's gunna be much better than the hal-assed job the last guy made..


It fucking kills me... I paid WAY too much to get the exhaust made, only to have him cut corners so now I've got to go back and get most of it redone :(

Pie cuts and cheating radii is not an acceptable way to build an exhaust.

One of these days I'm gunna learn to weld... It'd be so nice if I could do/fix this shit at home...

So the new(to me) fuel pump came in last night. I just swapped it in this afternoon. It took me about an hour start to finish, to include some time spent messing around. It was surprisingly straight forward. I made sure that the pump was completely full of fuel before re-installing it, so I shouldn't have issues with this one (hopefully).

I'll have to flow test it later as I don't currently have a -6 male/male connector.

Your going to flow test it before it's fully tuned right? I hope? That's a lot of money in that build to chance it to a used pump. My 2 cents anyways (coming from a person who has blown a couple engines because of a pump and wiring)

Absolutely gunna flow test it first! I just need to get the -6 male/male connector than I'll be in business.

So I finally got around to flow testing the fuel pump on Thursday night. Due to the fact that we ran AN lines it was actually very easy for me to extend the return line far enough to reach into the 5gal fuel can with no issues. I just picked up a male/male -6 connector and attached an extra length of hose :hurray:

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps67371596.jpg

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...psc7a3175b.jpg



However... I ran into two problems. One is a simple fix, the other will require a little bit more effort.

The first problem was that I totally retarded out and forgot to have another (running) car connected to mine by way of jumper cables. Without that 14v power feed from the running car my pump took about 6 minutes to fill the 5 gallons. Easy fix is that I'll just push my car out of the garage and do it again with a car attached.

Here's the other problem I found... While doing the test I found a distinct bulge in the short length of rubber fuel hose on the feeding side.

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps2ddad442.jpg

THAT is not good. I'm debating on whether I should replace that with fresh rubber hose (we're holding off on connecting the AN line directly until we make and install the swirl pot) or use a very small but of nylon braided -6 hose that I have left over. The internal diameter of the -6 is about identical to the outer diameter of the stock lines, so I'm thinking it *should* seal tight with a worm clamp...

I'm def open to suggestions from the pro's on that though ^_^

I would replace it. You can get a rubber fuel hose from advance for pretty cheap. Cut it bring it with you get the length you need and some band clamps and call it a day.

Done and done =) I neglected to take some "after" pictures because I was too intent on going straight to flow testing the fuel pump, then taking the car for a drive to make sure everything was good =)

I put the new length of 5/16" fuel hose in (I got rid of the 6" double loop and just went with a straight shot from the fuel pump to the feed line) then fired the pump up and checked for leaks. Tightened up the clamps a bit more after spotting a leak and proceeded with the 43.5psi flow test. I was kinda worried that when I cranked the FPR up to 70psi (it wouldn't push higher than 70psi by the adjuster on top of the FPR) but the fuel line held fine and was leak free =)

As for the fuel flow...

At 43.5psi it took 5:42.5 to fill 5 gallons.
at 70psi it took 6:31.5 to fill the 5 gallons.

And my handy-dandy garage note pad..

http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps49b120a9.jpg

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but to find the GPH would I divide the time by 5, then multiply by 60? It's been over a decade since I needed to use math for daily questions/problems (I would ask Bianca, but she's worse than Chris at Math..)

Not possible. Bianca can actually count her fingers AND toes. :)