I use these: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/762/=m6u2jz

On that link they're the (G) Noninsulated . Part numbers 7227K32-34. I heat shrink over that. They're barely thicker than the wiring was with the plastic shielding around it.

I tried using mil spec environmental splices in my car once, normal wire can't handle the heat to melt the sealant. Works good in the aircraft wire though.

I use crimps for connectors. I got ahold of lots of deutsch connectors and a crimper a while back. But I solder inline splices and use small zip ties over a protective wrap for stress relief (not that it should need it lol)

I have found that either will work when done properly. And a harness will last as long as it is protected and routed properly.

There is always a way to optimize for every last hundredth of a percentage of performance. However, life is a nalancing act of cost and labor versus time and money available versus results. If your results are satisfactory and it doesn't break your bank or require too much time, then I would call it successful. Regardless of which school of thought you used.

Thanks for the link!

I found them on delcity, for somewhat cheaper!

Since people think this is a joke, and I'm not in a good mood right now, the thread is getting chopped.

I don't see anything new and useful being offered from certain individuals.
Going into ad nauseum about FC harness is a waste of time...
The car is hitting almost 30 years; most mass-produced automobiles useful service life does not exceed 10 years.
If you cannot apply the logic, you need to go back and finish high school.

Oh, and if you can't get it into your little brain of yours, I'm a mod in this section.
Keep it up and further disciplinary action is around the corner - that's a PROMISE.


-Ted

Just to throw in my two cents. I also work aircraft maintenance and the only wires that we have to solder connectors for is liquid quantity indicating. That's only because of the way it measures (Capacitance). That said Unless you're dealing with some sort of precise measurement a crimp connection is fine.

Dealing with a high strung rotary where precise fuel and ignition requirements are required..... I can show you a datalog of an E6X that blew an engine because of faulty wiring.... I have a meecrowrech on the dyno right now that keeps dropping its ignition signal, the owner literally said, just jiggle it around and it'll work... really? And you want me to tune this thing to 24psi with an ECU that is known to have trigger issues... I'm just waiting for this amount of fun....

That is definitely not a crimp or solder issue. Its more of an L2Wire issue...

chop out the original connectors and put in new ones, problem solved.

Microwreck !

#1 in Lebanon :biggthumpup:

Thank you, I'm making a point, it's a solder joint on the board issue... my point being, a bad trigger signal can kill an engine, seen it many times, so why chance things is what I'm getting at

Wrong
Stand meecrowreck up in field
Shoot with various Kimbers, HK's and Saiga's
Throw remaining bits in trash
Problem solved

Fucking hate those stupid boxes.... good for ITS n/a race cars and that's about it....

they're bad but they're not THAT bad...

I get what your getting at. What it really comes down to is doing things right with the tools required. Honestly in a car situation I don't see anything that crimps can't take care of ;-P

Use the ECU that I learned on and come back and talk to me

I agree, which is why I only crimp

it's a basic ECU, easy to setup and just as quick to tune. i haven't seen one fail and many have run reliably for many many years that i installed and tuned.

the downside is the nickel and diming, firmwared anything into the units, the retarded narrowband input factory option and the older than time dongle w/o write to disc(supposedly they did step into the 20th century recently with the new version).

does it work? yes, very well.
is it the best ECU out there now? fuck no. though it's only been recently that some other ECUs are giving them a hard time about being the cheapest ECU still on the market(no, i still don't consider MS a comparable option either even though it is cheaper, or that Rtek garbage).

and it depends on which car you are installing it on and whether you care about re-using 20-25 year old wiring. most of the cars i work on have almost zero realistic plug-n-play options. though it doesn't bother me much, because building a high performance car with the original harness always leaves me a little uneasy.