I'm using a Starion thermoswitch in the back of the water pump housing. I definitely want a manual switch. The idea of being stranded by poor wiring is enough to make me want to kick a kitten.

I already have the manual switch wired in. I followed the S5 diagram, but added the manual switch like the S4 showed. Sounds like all I need to do is leave that wiring in place and still soldered to 86 on the relay. Then just take wiring direct from the thermoswitch to to 86 on the relay.

What I'm tempted to do is wire in the manual switch to the high speed of the efan, but for now I just want to have the car leave the driveway :driving:

Got the oil cooler hose replaced. I used the older one off the N/A because I was afraid I didn't store the newer one of my turbo well. Now I've got the newer but not properly stored one on. I started the car up and let it warm up...no leaks from the hoses so far.

Before work tomorrow I'm taking my old hoses to a brake shop so they can quote me on making stainless woven hoses. If the OEM hoses fail again I'll have some made.

I created a fuel leak at the front secondary injector. I've been partially taking the UIM off but not disconnecting the coolant line from engine keg to throttle body. That causes me to have to set the UIM on the LIM kinda awkwardly. I bet I knocked the fuel rail in the process.

Ugh, I believe I've corrected the leaking injector. But I took the UIM off and found some coolant on top of the engine. Pooled in the pockets where the LIM meets the keg. I ran out of time last night but tonight after work I'll find out more.

Sounds like the hose between the rear iron & TB puked, or possibly one of the small hoses (TB to BAC valve or BAC valve to water pump housing) is leaking.

Thats what I'm hoping. I've been taking the UIM off repeatedly working out the solenoids and also my adapter for my aftermarket gauges. I haven't been pulling the hose to the TB off just pulling it awkwardly. I'm hoping I simply loosened something.

Also on first start up I didn't have the BAC hose clamped at the BAC. But that was a week ago and I would have thought that would have evaporated off by now.

I'm hoping that the leak isn't coming from between the LIM and keg

I took the UIM off completely to (hopefully) fix a fuel leak where the front secondary injector meets the fuel rail. I didn't previously have that leak but I put different o ring on and I'll find out in a little bit if that fixed it.

Oil cooler hose fixed
Fuel leak hopefully fixed
Coolant leak hopefully fixed
Hopefully tonight the car can leave the driveway.

Oh one question. If I want to put the manual switch for my efan on high speed can I simply wire the switch into the high positive wire and leave the ground through the relay? Should that wire have an inline fuse at the battery?

Welp, definitely not in a good mood tonight. Coolant is leaking from between the LIM and housing. Or at least I've checked everything around it. No leaks from any hoses, no leaks from the sensors on the back of the water pump housing. I guess this weekend the turbo and LIM are coming off.

Is this diagram correct for a manual switch on a S5?

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...09616596_n.jpg

I think I have found my coolant leak without taking the LIM off. BUT now I have either a wiring, CPU or factory alarm issue. Everytime I start the car my driver door sensor triggers my horn and flashes my lights. They don't pop up but the do light up. After the engine has been running, if I close the door the lights flash once and the horn blows.

I also seem to have the oil leak taken care of. But I'm using used hoses so I'll be keeping an eye on them.

Gonna pull the CPU off my old vert and see if I can swap them. My concern is that the old vert is an 89, the new one is a 90 with airbag. Hopefully there are no differences in the CPUs. I'll check part numbers soon as I have them both out. But I've also got some reading to do. I remember people having issues with the CPU and OEM alarm and it has to do with having to resolder...I can't remember the rest of it.

I've also been able to tighten up some of the exhaust bolts. I was able to get all the bolts from turbo to manifold. I could get the bottom bolts on the manifold to engine. Could not get to the top bolts on the manifold. My plan all along has been to take the car to an exhaust shop and have them hang the exhaust properly. My RB exhaust has the typical driver side tip being lower than the passenger side. While doing that I"ll ask them to tighten the suspect areas down better.

The engine is not idling as smoothly. But I haven't done anything with the CAS or TPS. I started testing the TPS by memory of the process. It might be bad... if my memory serves me correct.

CPUs are different. I opened mine up to find this

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...41225945_n.jpg

We do extensive electronic repairs where I work. A coworker is a car guy. I'll take it in on Monday and see what he says. I'm sure he can replace the suspect areas. The chard circuit board doesn't look very repairable though...but I'm far from an expert.

The car had problems with the alarm before this. It would spontaneously go off from time to time. I had originally thought it was a sticky passenger lock switch.


I can buy the board from mazdatrix for like $90. Anyone have a used one I can buy??

Update: Coworker replaced some caps that were leaking. He can't read the color indicators on the swollen and chard resistors (?). I tried plugging it in with just the caps replaced and it was actually worse. The alarm idiot light is on all the time and the door light is on all the time.

I've got someone for 7club sending me an old CPU of theirs. High beems don't work on that one but it will make due for now. The guy at work is interested in piecing one good one together out of the two bad ones.

Also the exhaust gaskets arrived yesterday. Turbo and feed lines are unbolted. Downpipe is unbolted...but I probably have to unbolt the downpipe at the presilencer also to get the turbo off.

Once I've got the manifold off I may cut the OEM heatshield so that I can get to all the bolts. Either that or I may get some of the exhaust wrap and use that instead of the OEM shield.

So incredibly frustrated

Got a new CPU from Mazdatrix
Got the engine to manifold gasket replaced
Got the mainifold to turbo gasket replaced
Have the efan wired properly...though I may go back and put larger gauge wires in

Started the car up tonight and it's got a horrible vacuum leak. It whistles and stalls. I was too worn out from helping a coworker with a surveillance system install to mess with it. Guess I'll start taking things apart tomorrow and find the leak.

If the leak is that bad I wouldnt take things apart. Instead, pull the AFM and fab up a cap/plug with PVC fittings from HD or Lowes. Then pressurize the system with your compressor.

Here's a vid we shot of our test setup.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cFiOfUFofo

It includes an TMIC bypass pipe so we could get at all the potential leakpoints in the rat's nest and intake manifolds.

We also made this vid showing how we used dry ice in a watering can to make seeing the source of a leak easier to find. If you smoke that'll work too. Unless you have a pulsation damper leak in which case you might blow up! :sifone:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5Gluq4rGwI

Hope those help.

Interesting idea....though I don't own a compressor. I'm actually thinking of paying someone to finish this up and work out the bugs. I simply don't have the time to work on it and when I do find time I find myself rushing to get as much done as possible and I start making mistakes and missing things......like great big vacuum leaks.

sounds like mine i havea few leaks that I gotta get taken care of think ones a oil pan and then my fuel line is cracked and i see that one pretty clearly...

I have barely touched the car in a week. I did some car stuff but not engine related. I believe I worked out a wiring mistake I made with my boost gauge.

I also bought some JDM fog lights and am in the process of polishing the lenses....matter of fact I took some pics I'll post.