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since i am having to daily commute this turd 70 miles one way until i get my daily up and running.... some to do list items.
1. fix power steering. Rack is leaking from inside the boots and from what i can tell, my return fittings i cobbled together. Might need something better to seal it all up with... 2. exhaust needs to exit beyond the bumper. Seem to get a lot of fumes into the car and my chest feels funny. 3. car is slow. like damn. Needs more 13b. or a turbo. or a 13b with a turbo. then a bigger turbo. but probably just an Rx-8 engine. 4. diff pinion seal leaks. 5. driveshaft is too short, but if I ditch the miata engine, then i will likely not want to spend the money to deal with that crap (its always something... i swear) 6. needs pillow ball tops with speherical bearings. The caster i have induced is not doing good things to the stock strut tops rubber. Need to get my hands on a set of FC pillowball tops. Since the Rx2 needs coilovers from an FC... maybe I can get coilovers for that, use the FC tops on the rally car, then acquire tops to use on the Rx2 (which is radically different than the FB/C) 7. tach doesnt work... which is lame. 8. still have wiring i need to wrap up and finish. |
Looks great man!
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thanks Eric. She is coming along. Keep finding little things, making adjustments. Since I've been daily driving her (not by choice) I've been getting a feel for everything.
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So i realized an issue, that needs addressed.... some what soon.
I never spaced the rear of the subframe off the car. whoops So what that means i my lower A-arm is moving on the x-axis but from a negative angle whereas my caster is such that the strut is at a negative angle in the Y-axis. Which under movement... cant be good. behold. a crappy, not-to-scale diagram! http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/...psd06a384c.png |
okay, so i either 1) suck and cant get this power steering leak to stop, or 2) dont suck, but still can't get this power steering leak to stop :rage:
Might require the use of a new rack, and either tap for a fitting or weld in something so the stupid crush washer thing is eliminated. Also, the car still overheats. Its leaning towards a blown headgasket. Lots of small bubbles being produced in the car, pushed into the expansion tank. Does not stop bubbling... |
pull the dipstic, if you see bubbles on it then yes, Also check the level if its higher for some reason fluid is being added to it :/
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i have not checked the oil for bubbles yet. Do that running i assume?
Basically, i have to drive this thing to CA middle next month. So I am considering doing a headgasket on this car (and deck head to minimum spec). Unless when i open the car up it looks like WWIII inside. I am still concern about burned rings or pistons |
I skipped a few pages to see that the car is prettier. Nice job, If there was a place to rally around here and I finally had my fc running I would like to try to build a rally FC.
I am also suprized you are willing to throw a renny in there. Most people want nothing to do with them. They are lighter then a S5 13B N/A |
my friend has a 13b-msp in his FB and it has been one amazing swap! And would keep me within the Group 2 class, which porting would otherwise remove me from.
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compression check on the B6
141-152-150-148 which is pretty damn good i would say. Min. is 135 and 28psi difference. So that means the rings are probably fine. Looking at doing a headgasket to resolve various issues (oil burning, running hot) |
Headgaskets are a "weak" area for that engine if you had to pick a weak spot. Had to deck a head and do a gasket on the last turbo 1.8 we built about 10 years ago, also had to do a head gasket on a 1.6 a few years later, so I wouldn't say its unheard of by any means.
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i plan to deck to minimum spec to. get a couple extra .01% horsepower out of it!
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so the list of things I need to finished to get racing:
Finish various wiring brakes need done all around Master Cylinder for clutch is dying (black fluid) new 3 hole rack that wont leak headgasket figure out in which way i want to have a matching lug pattern. |
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