Lol.... Disapprove away. But I feel pretty good about it at this point. I've not read one bad thing about a NA 3 Rotor set up. All I've read says how much fun they are to drive. But .... we'll see... there is plenty of time for me to change my mind.:rofl:



Thats not a very comforting statement in your pitch for every NA Rotary needing a 8 transmission :banghead:

As far as the shifting properly goes... are the people who can't do it properly just pulling and pushing WAY too hard during the shift?


Did you rent the booth from a local body shop? How long did you rent the booth for? What did they charge you?

You can get a small turbo with a big exhaust and properly sized turbine and have the same hp, more torque, and be more fun to drive.... cheaper... in my opinion.

My problems have been all shift assembly related. Having to modify the tailshaft and linkages has proven.... difficult. The last iteration lasted 2 years and now it's pissing fluid everywhere. Not sure why... haven't looked yet. I'll let you know though.

Mostly

The owners are friends of the family. Rented it on a saturday, charged me $250 for the 5 hours. Picked the car up on monday morning :D

Shut up queer. I'm done with turbo rotaries until I win the lotto.

wah wah wah spinny bits are expensive and the gremlins shit out apex seals for no reason, WAHHHHHHHHH

Hey now.

I didn't shit an apex seal. I annihilated a rotor bearing.

It was tragically impressive.

:rofl:

Turbo can't really be blamed for that ;)

How I'd love to have a 5.11:1 final drive ratio. Looks like the highest option other than complete custom for the FC is Mazdatrix's 4.77:1.

Oh, I didn't realize you were planning on swapping a 20B. 350 hp in a naturally aspirated 20B is optimistic without sacrificing some drive-ability, but that's another conversation. I still think as long as you're not beating on the car constantly (hard launches, constant high-RPM driving, etc.) the N/A gearbox will be fine. You can always change the fluid more often to be safe.

My comment about the complexity was assuming the stock N/A 13B. To switch to a turbo gearbox you need a turbo clutch and flywheel, starter, and unless you want a custom driveshaft to the stock N/A rear end, the turbo differential as well.

For the record i have no qualms with going turbo. I just want to really experience NA for a while. I still see turbo in my future. just not yet.

I think the 350 number is attainable from what I've been reading lately. I came across a thread on the other forum that a guy did a 3 rotor na build for his FD. The made 345whp. His comments were that the car was just fine on the street drivability wise minus his clutch choice. So i am hopeful.

That makes perfect sense. Im glad to know that that miata gear swap is still on the table.

Sooo, please correct me if i'm wrong because i'm confused. You wanted a FD but you said it was too expensive, that is the reasoning behind you purchasing the FC. Now you want to have a NA 20b in your FC........ :confused:

Smaller chunks of moneies at once.

We did 350 on Gordons 3-rotor, stock port, n/a

Aside from the sound which is orgasmic, there's no bene to a 3 rotor if you're only looking for 350rwhp.

Now 600.... We've done that on pump gas with three rotors.

no need to be confused. a decent Fd would have cost me 10k on the low side. and then i would have had to dump a bunch of money to make it look nice. My FC cost 3.5K and its in good running condition and the body is straight. the money i saved not buying a FD means money i can use for the FC.

Speed1 built his? I thought Defined built it? I mean its either a singe turbo RE or a 3 rotor na. Seems like i would run into less annoying things and hang ups with out the turbo.

I forget who built it, but it blew up good about 200ft before making it to the Dragon......

Yes it did, that was what, 2 DGRR's ago?