Looking awesome Jesse. Nice work. Where did you get that turbo blanket? Really fits nicely!! Keep it coming and let me know if you need help. I'm off now until the new year!

Thanks for the heads up guys -- a while ago I did a little research on this and did see a thread somewhere where some of the white plastic phenolic gaskets had warped.

The gasket I have is from gizzmo and is definitely from a different material. I'd guess its something like the FR44 material we use for manufacturing circuit boards.

http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/u...f/IMG_1544.jpg

Is this the EGR port you were talking about?
http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/u...f/IMG_1545.jpg

It seems to cover it -- maybe by not much margin. I'll probably see about plugging that EGR hole with some aluminum or JBweld.
http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/u...f/IMG_1548.jpg


The turbo blanket I think I got from ebay. Its pretty thin actually, but that works for me because I'm a little worried about too much heat in the turbo. I painted it with the same 1500degF silicone sealant paint I painted the header wrap with.

Thanks Tim, I'd take you up on some help this week if it weren't for the fact we'll be in Tucson visiting family.

Yep, that is the exact same gasket I have with the exact same specs, not completely covering the exact same EGR port LOL. I guess if you cover it with JB Weld or something that would work too. Good luck with all that. Just wanted to give you a heads up so you didn't get it together and then try to figure out where the leak was coming from LOL.

Mine looked the same btw. It looked like it was covering, but air still came out of there.

That last photo you can see a tiny little bit of the EGR port sticking out... I can see why that would warp and let create a leak....

interesting though that they make them out the same, or similar material as circuit boards...


J.

^I don't think these are the ones that warp, I honestly think these might have a good chance of standing up to the heat. That little bit of the EGR port is enough to leak enough air to make it sound like a motorcycle. So it's already bad just the way it is, it doesn't take warping to make it sound like crap haha. And the ones the other guys on 7club had were made by a different company I believe. So far no one that has had a Gizzmo one (that I know of) has had it warp. It's just not cut right.

I stuffed a wad of steel wool down the EGR passages and JBwelded them shut. I also did the other side too.

http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/u...f/IMG_1560.jpg

I ported my extension manifold with a hacksaw and dremel. I removed the center support where the butterflies used to be then knife-edged and smoothed the exposed primary/secondary walls.

http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/u...f/IMG_1562.jpg

Now theres a better chance of taking advantage of the bigger throttle body:

http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/u...f/IMG_1566.jpg

I used the OEM intake gasket to port match the LIM to UIM, and the gizzmo phenolic gasket to port match the LIM. It wasn't a lot of material but it sure did take awhile with the dremel.

Now that its done, I'm not sure if this was a good idea or not, as a local rotary expert told me that while it will help top end power by a few hp, it may create excessive intake reversion and low speed cruise backfiring/sputtering. Anybody else have any experience with this?

I'm hoping the effect is minimal on my mostly stock ports as I anticipate a bit of a driveability loss already by replacing the stock throttle body and loosing the way it opened up the primary butterfly first.

Xcessive LIM top (to stock UIM):
http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/u...f/IMG_1578.jpg
Xcessive LIM bottom:
http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/u...f/IMG_1574.jpg
stock UIM (to LIM):
http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/u...f/IMG_1584.jpg

Looks like you've been busy. Can't wait to see it on the road Jesse.

Can you give more info on the on-line fab company you used? I model parts in Pro/E all day long. The hard part is finding a fab shop that won't rape you to make the part.

Thanks,

CrispyRX7 port matched all of his manifolds with good results. I believe he made 422 @ 15 psi on a 35R T3.

http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fdenginebuild.htm

http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fde...doverview4.htm

I think he's referring to Paul Yaw and his 12A port matched mani's that lost CFM.... It's odd I agree but makes me wonder none the less..... I've got a set of bone stock RE mani's that I should probably flow test.

I use emachineshop.com. You have to use their free CAD tool which isn't nearly as sophisticated as Pro/E or Solidworks, but you order straight from the software and it quotes your design in realtime which is convenient.

Its not bad $$ if you can stick to simple sheet aluminum cuts and bends. Trying to do anything that needs to be 3d machined it seems overly expensive for one-offs with emachineshop though they can do it.

Another site that can do simple metal cutting is ponoko.com. They can't bend but you can hand bend if you use the laser cut to remove slits from the bend lines. Ponoko can also do 3d printing in stainless steel or ABS.

FWIW, I actually PM'ed him to ask him if he had any obnoxious cruise/low load driveability issues and he said he had none whatsoever. I guess I'll see.

Cleaning all the metal shavings and sandblasting material out of that UIM was a real pain. The small amount of carbon buildup from the PCV/purge solenoid acted somewhat as an adhesive for all the sand/metal shavings and made them resistant to being blown out. I was pulling shop towels through the passages with wires for quite awhile before wising up and blasting the entire insides with brake cleaner to get rid of the gunk.

Another way to do it would be to soak a towel in acetone and pull it through with a line. Has always worked well for me.

I've thought about extrude honing the manifolds, but can't really justify the near $700

Yep, I was doing exactly that with the shop towels. The acetone just was not cutting it as a solvent. I must have pulled about 5 towels through that way and each time the rags were coming out dirty from the PCV gunk. Whatever is in that brake cleaner is some strong stuff.

I wondered how expensive that would be. I would think there would be a lot to gain by simply polishing the inside passageways to get rid of the casting texture, but I didn't see an easy way get a sander in there.

One thing about that UIM is that even after porting it, pulling stuffed towels through it it definitely seems the biggest constriction is right at the UIM exit as thats when I had to use the most pulling force. I'll bet that since using the Xcessive LIM, this spot is the 2nd most constrictive point after the engine ports themselves.

Looking good Jesse! Your attention to detail is awesome!