Parts for the project will be here Wednesday.....well some of them at least

i get paid friday. so ill be close to buying that paint gun. also the honda will be paid for (again) by august. so i should have a little extra money then. soooooo..... you should get a few days of driving in for the next couple weeks :)

So I got a box at the house today. What are you talking about paint guns and stuff for? SHHHH it's a super secret project!

Fixed.

paint gun is for work...:suspect:.............

sooo Brian... or anyone who wants to chime in. i need to be schooled on gear ratios real quick. i did some searching on it (im really bad at searching most of the time,.... ask haukbeeb lol)

Search newblet.....

oh shit, wait, wrong forum :smilielol5:

Basically what you want to do is create an excel spreadsheet that will calculate ground speed using rpm as a variable. You obviously need tire diameter, rear end ratio and gear ratios. This way you can input your RPM to determine your upshift rpm (what rpm the engine will drop down to when you upshift) to gauge where how responsive the car will be based on dyno charts.

You're in luck, I built a spreadsheet exactely like that. It's on a comp that is no longer in existance but I did upload it to TeamFC3S back in the day. It's in the lounge somewhere I believe if ya wanna go look for it. We were discussing Renni 6-spds and doing a whole bunch o' calcs.

You'll see what I mean in some of the graphs that are there showing the difference in engine RPM when using the Renni vs the TII shitbox. I specifically remember 7800 rpm redlines where fricken BEUATIFUL using that tranny for my setup. I set the rev limiter to 7500 becuase the torque came on sooner than I thought, and fell a little faster than I originally thought.

Eitherway, head over and check it out. I would but I'm just taking a quick smoke break before I make a few final connections, add fuel and fire the FC .................. HOPEFULLY, fingers crossed.

and yes it will be at about 2am

That my friend.... does not suprise me:rofl: ill take a look at FC3S later. But really all i wanted to know was how to understand the numbers behind the ratios. i mean is it really as simple as lets say 2:1 as and example. that 1 gear rotates 2 times by the time the other gear rotates once?

Yup. IE if 1st is 3.89 it takes 3.89 rev's of the engine to rotate the driveshaft once. The rear is a 4.11 meaning the driveshaft needs to rotate 4.11 times in order for the wheels to make one full revolution

Awesome. makes perfect sense. i love when i suck at searching AND i overcomplicate things hhaha

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread...ighlight=ratio

Dug it up myself becuase I am trying to decide if I wanna drop in a 4.30 :D

awesome. that will help me understand. :) i actually forgot i asked about that. just been busy. Ill have updates posted on the "super secret" project soon. :)

So the 4.3 would give you a bit more excelleration if im reading the chart correctly after i plugged that in and it wouldnt totally destroy highway cruise?

Also is WIW what you have there for the size that you want to have?

Yeah, I think it was What I Want, something right in the middle. In reality though I'm running a 255/40/17.

I think I'll pick up two diff's, keep one @ 4.1 and drop in some 4.3 over the winter or whenever it looks like the FD will be close to being on the road.

These are some "before" pictures from around 2008. Just an idea of what it looked like before I started the "super secret" project. Posting on my car while project86's is in limbo.

Moar before pics

mnmmm sexy

lol you know exactly whats next :)

here are install progress pics of the overfenders we are doing.

more pics of the riveting process. they lined up nicely but there is some work ill have to do to make them perfectly flush :) thats haukbeeb putting those rivets in btw

heres the last one. both sides are done. molding them will start soon. probably with in the next week or two and there will be updates

I'm assuming its a panspeed replica over fender? Is this your new car, lol... people mixing and matching build threads, geez....

ya they are the panspeed replicas. no this isnt my new car lol. this is haukbeebs car. i just decided to put the work we are doing on it on my thread since my car in just chillin under a car cover for now ;)

that black car is a total peice of shit........................:rofl:




........it runs though:(:cuss::o10::banghead::icon_tdown:

HAHAHAHA poor Sean and his silly V8:001_005::beatdeadhorse5:

speaking of V8 while "The Other" Kyle and I were working in the garage a couple nights ago he pointed something out to me on one of his FC models.... it has an s5 UIM and guess what below it? A V8 BLOCK! i laughed and said we should show it to you.

Went down to Parts Plus/H.O. today to get a price on his paint. Its gonna cost about $500 for me to paint his whole car :o11: i guess im cheap labor haha.

Haha good one Murray.......I will be sure to drive by your house all the time in the wee hours of the morning. The model project86 is refering to is the initial d fc

i thought making the flares work on the FB was tricky, jeez. That looks a bit more frustrating.

Getting them to fit really wasnt a problem as far as im concerned. The only thing we really had to worry about was actually flaring the metal on the fender enough so we could make double sure the tire wouldnt hit it anymore when turning. The fender was really chewing his tires up. And Corksport does an exceptional job on their fiberglass and frp material. both products i have purchased from them (RE type wing and S4 lip) have bolted up just fine. the other fiberglass ive experience was the Bmagic 20mm wide body fenders... garbage. they dont fit worth shit. but i think thats the difference between places that make fiberglass for such a wide variety of vehicles vs companies that are more specialized.

There are gonna be a couple places on these overfenders that will need some special attention and maybe a small amount of fiberglass matt and resin. but the rest should mold in fine with long strand kitty hair filler, rage, and icing. im going to be feathering the edges of them as well to make the transition to the fender smoother as well.

This is really my first "custom" job. Everything else ive done(including my own car) has been a complete paint job and just plain collision repair. so im sure will learn a little more doing this and just have one more thing to add a notch to my body work belt. I will also be painting this entire car for Haukbeeb, but for the time being we are primarily focused on the front end.

I would use some of that 3M autobody adhesive all around the seems ;)

Brian you took the words out of my head. :icon_tup: I was thinking that thought earlier today but i was thinking of seam sealer because he bought a bottle of it and that ish works great. im excited to start the work on these and Murrays bumper.

I think we're thinking the same thing. The $20 product that needs the $65 gun and the $10 mixing tips. I used it for some of the underhood supports when I did my hood.

well the stuff we have is like a factory seam sealer. not a 2 part epoxy type.. i know what youre thinking about. the brand im familiar with is Lord Fusor. it works great and the mixing tips for that shit are spendy. that is another good option though. there is some resin type stuff that i used to fill the antenna hole in my wing with that sets up with heat ... that stuff is really tough. if i recall that lord fusor line of stuff is more that 20 dollars a tube though.. i think its closer to 40 or 50

so i started taking apart my old engine today and i think my flywheel is seized on there.......any suggestions?

Sure! To fix the problem you speak of, it will require the use of what's called a "BIG FUCKING HAMMER", yes?

haha ok then sounds good. thats what ill do. i guess if i screw up the flywheel it really doesnt matter cause i dont need it anyway. ill give it a shot. i even put a puller on it and she still wouldnt budge.

No. Soft Face hammer and hit the flywheel @ 12, then 6,9,3,12,6,9,3,12,6,9,3 and keep giving it solid hits until it pops off. Make sure the flywheel nut is still on though otherwise you may hop away missing a toe or two.

i tried that for a long time yesterday and im not getting anything. im kinda wondering if i should have left the front cover on? the only movement im getting out of it is just the eshaft moving back and forth with it.

I've never had an issue getting it off with a dead-blow hammer. Meaning a rubber mallet. Try a brass hammer, or a heavy ballpien against a piece of AL against the flywheel. Keep hitting..... pretty hard too.

Is this a one piece flywheel or an aftermkt flywheel with the auto counterweight?

I beat it hard today....:suspect:...and i finally got it off. got the whole engine apart too. to my suprise everything in there looks pretty good. ill post some pics of it later but i think what ill do is get everything cleaned up and buy a seal kit for it and porting templates and put it all back together and throw a carb on it. :)