:rofl: Better hurry up.... your fuel pump should be here monday..... but I'm not working monday.

These are actual bdc ports :smilielol5:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1331951310

These are my ports..

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1331951310

I should mention though... these plates came from Chip @ Chips Motorsports. They were headed for the trash but I decided to call him up and see if there was anything that he could do. For about 20% of the cost of new plates.... OH MY FICKEN GOODNESS!!! I literally have BRAND NEW plates.

I consider that reconditioning mandatory for any high hp, hgh boost engine... hell, even an n/a if you want it to burn clean and have REALLY good compression. Can't wait to try them out

Can't thank ya enough Chip. Now I just need me a few months and a pair of rotors, and a pair of housings, and every new seal imaginable :rofl:

Yeah I've heard it should be here before. non-stocking dealers suck.
What EGT stuff did you say I needed? I may be making a few extra bucks this week, a '79 Rx-7 is to be dropped off to see if I can revive it. it has been sitting off and on for years only 40,000 miles and original owner.

How are the v-mount thoughts coming?

Why in the Sam hell did he go that far up on the renni exh port????????? WTF. The ports almost overlap on the iron. Lol. I guess when all your trying to sell Is the cool brap brap sounds rather than actual performance it works out good.

I personally lap every engine I put together. I'm to anal not too, to me that's the difference between a average joe rebuild and a real rebuild.

:rofl: Pretty much

Well..... some people haev different thoughts on expectations and levels of what they consider a good engine.

Yeah.... that's pretty outrageous. The last pump we ordered over the winter was here in like 2 days. I guess everyone is thinking the same thing. Weathers turning nice..... better get cracking on the car :rofl:

COOL! Good luck with that!

It depends on how you want to go about it. There is 1 AVI left over that is currently designated as the trim switch. That can be reconfiged and used as an input for 1 EGT sensor. The wiring is already there, it would be an hr or so to wire everything up, and the parts would be about $100. It would be an amp from EGT.com and a probe as well. This is exactely what I'm doing in the 'vert. BUT, that's a stock turbo stock build kinda thing.... so stock it should make ove 250wheel :rofl:

According to EGT.com, that box can be mounted in the engine bay as long as it's not laying flat collecting water. Again, not a concern for the 'vert because it will never see rain, just the occasional washing.

What I would do for your car, is get the Haltech CAN based system. Chris Ludwig (LMS-EFI.com - not for you, I know you know who he is) sells them for ~$450 if memory is serving. That includes the box, the data cable, and the two probes.... again, if memory is serving, I would double check with him. (And I would strongly suggest you order from him and have him ship to me, keep Sue out of it and it off your bill)

The issue there is that the box isn't sealed any better than the ECU itself, and it has the CAN cable. I've got 4 extra wires running into the engine bay, so power/gnd and 2 for the CAN is all it SHOULD be. You've got a few extra pins left over in that connector, but I would have to strip back some of the harness to get them. Not a big deal. That's if you wanted to mount it in the engine bay. What I would suggest is mouting it in the car, and running the wires for the probes through the firewall. They should be able to pass through where the AC lines go. If not, it's not a big deal to punch a hole and use one of my watertight bulkhead seals.

The MAIN issue is you can't run the EGT probes through connectors or copper wire. The voltage is so mineute that the readings will be skewed doing this. They need to be plugged directly into the CAN box.

So, it's up to you. Mount it in the engine bay and risk water damange, or sneak them through the firewall.... or find a watertight box that it can be mounted in and pass the wires though the main harness. My thing with running them through the firewall is you would then need remove the probes from the mani before pulling the engine. I know, you don't pull engines nearly as often as I do, but I've got this thing that I want to undo as few connections as possible and build the entire engine on the stand.

Personally, another reason to do the Haltech CAN solution is individual fuel and ignition trimming. If you've only got one probe in the mani, you only know one temp and have to assume that they are the same. With the duals, you can make a pull on the dyno, record it. Swap sensors at the box and make another pull and compare them. If they are the same, only reversed, you know that the sensors are right on the money and start trimming to get them pretty close to even. With the EGT.com single probe AVI, you don't have that option. Youb only know the temp on one rotor

There coming... I'm actually going to grab my intercooler when I'm in CT this weekend. I'm pretty sure it's a 24x12 core which is just what we were talking about. I LOVE the intercooler, but hate the company... so I'm kinda torn. It was also pricey @ ~$500. But it's perfect for mockup

OK cool let me see how this car goes, its been worked on before and I'm going in blind but no promises to the owner on bringing it back from the dead again. Everything is fixable but its all about time/money willing to be used.

Prolapsed Anus:biggthumpup:

Pretty quiet in here, hope all's well.

nice project :)