Ok. Is Friday the only day this will work?


Yes I do. I'll try and remember to get them as soon as I can. I might be able to swing by there this evening and get them. Not sure yet. They need a good cleaning after sitting over there for so long.

Yeah, I'll be going out of town Saturday. We can another weekend if Friday won't work.

We might need to wait. I'll just try and get my wheels from Charles. I have a big photo job that needs to be done by Friday so I'm gonna be pretty busy with that.

Also I should add.... that this vibration happens even when sitting still when i rev the car. It did that even before the driveshaft replacement.

If that's the case then there was no reason to replace the driveshaft. . Probably something off on the engine, possibly a defective clutch or flywheel.

Thats what I was saying originally but when Adler looked at the shaft on the lift said the the joint were definitely bad. So I figured it couldn't hurt.

Is the best/only way to confirm the clutch or flywheel being screwed to take the trans off?

I think so.

Boo... I wish I still had my old clutch.... I think I included it in the sale of the white car..... faaaaaak.

Clutch deez.......

:biggthumpup:

I picked up my wheels from Charles yesterday with intentions of having them put on today. I drove the car to work and started having issues getting it in gear. I had no issues at first leaving home. But after I left the gym I couldnt get it in reverse so I decided to take it home instead of chancing it. On the way home I was able to get it in reverse but then had some issues with it going into first and second. Kinda felt like it was binding. The last time I had that issue was in my civic and the clutch was definitely bad.

First step, pull back the boot on the slave cylinder and check for leakage. Second step, pull the trans!

Good times!! At least a trans is super easy on FC's.

When I get the clutch and flywheel I'm gonna have Adler do it at work. I'm not doing that again in the floor of a garage. NOPE.

Don't forget the counterweight!

Good grief.... $830 in parts.... I need a better job.

WTF are you buying???

Damn son.

Exedy Stage 1 Clutch kit
RB Aluminum Flywheel
Counter weight

Because racecar?

Just asking, because in my 91 FC I had a lightweight flywheel and HATED it on the street.

Duh. Haha

But mostly because I drove nicks Rx8 and he has that flywheel and I liked it.

No more Mexican civic wheels.

Oh thank God! Much better!

Looks like that 'tire tech' is installing the lug nuts after the car is down. Brilliant!

But it's hub-centric. . .

And with tapered lugs. .

Brilliant!

He was just torquing them.

I was more or less saying I didn't see the issue, in a smart alec kind of way :) But I get your point, especially if the wheels are aftermarket without centering rings and especially with flanged seat lug nuts.

Who's alec? He doesn't sound very smart... :dunno:

should he see if he has fluids in reservoir first? then see if slave cylinder is moving..

there is fluid.

A little leak goes a long way, and the level might not be affected enough. It is something that should be done, and takes 2 seconds. lol

clearly... which is why I said "there is fluid".

You weren't specific!! Thought you meant there is fluid in the MC reservoir. Lol.

If there is fluid under the slave cylinder plunger boot, replace it and add an SS clutch line if you don't already have one. They're cheap.

Oh I think I misunderstood what you were saying to check. I actually have a new slate and an ss line in my mazdatrix cart. Waiting to hear back from Adler about a flywheel and counter weight.

I think I may have mentioned that I developed an idle surge. I initially had the screw in the top of the TB backed all the way out after the emissions removal and it held around 900RPM.

Lately its been idling around 1500 and surging to 2000 intermittently. So I was reading on the other forum about it and found one thing that said adjust the screw so I screwed it all the way down and it brought it back to around 900-1000. After I started driving it the idle jumped back up to 1500 but didn't surge any more and then settled back down to 900. Still no surge so thats good.

Do you think by BAC could be bad? I know i dont "need" it but it does help with idle speed. I suppose I could unplug it and see how the car responds.

There's a procedure for adjusting this screw in the FSM. IIRC, while idling and warmed up you have to ground one of the pins in the green check connector located elsewhere in the engine bay and then adjust the screw so the TPS voltage is within a certain range.

EDIT: In the '89 FSM it's in section F1. Pages F1-15 and 16 cover idle adjustment, pages F1-40 and 41 cover idle control and checking the BAC, and page F1-83 covers checking the TPS. Found here: http://www.wright-here.net/files/man...mission_NA.pdf

It wasn't the TPS I was messing with. That we got adjusted correctly a while ago. I'm referring to the "idle screw" on top of the throttle body/UIM.

^ Yep, you can't just turn the screw one way or the other without making the connection on the test connector.

Kyle, that's what he's taking about. . There's more to it than just turning the screw.

Check your manual.