Help me choose an ECU
 

Damnit TTT if you say buy a Motec I'm going to stab you in the eye and lick it like a lollipop. I'm a very poor newly wedded college student.

Okay, here's the deal. I'm interested in buying a stand alone ECU for my car. Here's what I currently have and what I want:

1. I have a T60-1 Ceramic Ball Bearing Turbo that is mounted to an S4 NA engine via a custom turbo manifold.
2. I will have a custom intake manifold
3. I have NA drive train
4. I will have a digital dash
5. I want to have EGT, wideband, and boost available on the digi dash
6. I want independent spark control (ie leading and trailing able to be set on the individual rotors if possible--not wasted spark)
7. I would like a high resolution map for fuel and spark
8. I plan on upgrading the engine at some point in the future to 20B or 26B (whether of my own make or Mazdacomp)
9. I would like to have at least 15 minute continual datalog (datalog the last 15 minutes of my driving)
10. would like to have auto fuel correction based on wideband readings
11. enough inputs/outputs to run the necessary accessories--Radiator fan, fuel pump, etc
12. allow custom map for alternate output, ie: rpm/load for a pulse width modulation/square wave voltage.

I'm considering one of the three following ecu's:
Sprint RE
Platinum Sport 1000
Platinum Sport 2000

Which one do I go for?

Buy a MoTeC M600

/Thread

Or if you think the 26B is in the realm of possibilities, get the M820

Now /thread











:smilielol5:

I hate you. So much. :beatdeadhorse5:

Hey Phil/ZGN could you make a smiley that shows a smiley stabbing another smiley in the eye, removing the eye, and then licking it? K-thnx bai!

TTT you have three choices! Sprint, 1000, 2000. I'm aiming to spend maybe around 2k MAX for the entire setup.

From what I understand the Spirit RE is specific to 2-rotor engines so cancel that.

What's the difference between the 1&2000?

Make a list of the I/O's you need for the 26B and get the ecu that meets the requirements. The software is the same yes? Lacking? :p

For the 26B deal: I don't see it in the immediate future, but as a future goal. IE: I probably won't be in a position to get/manufacture one for quite some time. By then ECU technology will either be obsolete or better options will be available.

As for the IO's, that's the problem I'm having trouble with. I can't remember where I put the Excel Spreadsheet I had of everything, so I'm back to trying to figure it all out again. From what I can remember there's a few necessary things needed to run the engine. Feel free to correct the list if it's wrong.

input/output list
1. ignition x 4 (o)
2. Fuel x 4 (o)
3. Map (i)
4. Coolant Temp (i)
5. Fuel Pump (o)
6. Radiator Fan (o)
7. AIT (i)
8. E6PI (o) -- this is something special
9. O2 (i)
10. EGT x 2 (i)

Am I missing anything?

So I found a few things that may be helpful in deciding.
The PS2k lists the following:

1. Crank Position Sensor
2. Cam Position Sensor
3. Map Sensor
4. TPS
5. Coolant Temp
6. Air Temp
7. Barometric Pressure
8. O2 Sensor
9. Road Speed

This leaves
7 Analogue Voltage Inputs
1 Digital Switched Input
3 Digital Pulsed Input

Though I know we don't need Cam position and I don't readily have access to road speed (I assume at each wheel, or do them mean the read out from the tranny?), do I need barometric pressure?

They list the following for output

1. 12 Injector Drivers--Only need 4, will show remaining in aux
2. 6 Ignition Drivers--Only need 4, will show remaining in aux
3. Fuel pump relay
4. Digital pulsed outputs x 4 + 8
5. IAC

Some questions I have though: Does the PS2K include built in controller, or if I already have a controller will it still be able to use the auto-tune feature?

Start with this :rofl:

http://www.motec.com/filedownload.ph...pdf?docid=1214


Things to add to your list would be

Required Inputs
1) Crank Position
2) TPS
3) MAP
4) AIT
5) Coolant Temp
6) Lambda

Things I would have
7) Oil Temp
8) Oil Pressure
9) EMAP
10) EGT Front Rotor
11) EGT Rear Rotor
12) Fuel Pressure
13) Low Sump
14) Low Coolant
15) Wheel Speed x4 if you want to do traction control OR just pull a speed signal off the tranny. Speedometer Solutions makes a Hall Effect thread-in sender.

Outputs -
Injector x4
Ignition x4
Fuel Pump relay (Also used for coils and injectors and solenoids)
Thermo Fan
Tach Driver
BAC
WG

Thanks TTT I'll look over that in more detail when I wake up (I drugged myself). There's some things I would like to have that I forgot to put in. I keep forgetting I'm not going to have the stock gages anymore (I've nixed the idea of a wheel mounted digi dash).

If you really want to log everything and keep an eye on it without running two senders for everything, you need a digital dash of some sorts and CAN communication. And yes, they kick ass.

Well the digital dash is already a certain. I need to verify the inputs first and what I can afford. Consequently from the stock sensor suite does the FC have Oil Temp? I don't have a Low coolant sender that works anymore (Ruined my low coolant sender when I attempted to mount it to my old radiator--may pick up a new one and try to find a nice round stock and actually get it drilled and tapped for the proper threads this time), I'll also need to figure out if my low sump sender works anymore (some reason I don't think it does). Fuel Pressure... I think I might hold off on that (as it would require purchase of a new sender).

I'm working through the spreadsheet now and I'll post up the results.

Quick question: Can Digital Pulse Inputs (DPI) be used as a Digital Switch Input (DSI)?

Sprint RE is out, doesn't have enough inputs for me to make it a viable option with a digital dash. The PS1k is still in the running though--I'm waiting on the answer to the DPI and DSI question though.

Never mind. Answered my own question after going through the manual they have hidden on the site.

Alright, another question for the general community: How does the Digital Dash hook up to the ECU? I'm assuming via the CAN bus system, but after going through both the dash manual and the ecu manual I don't see any instructions on installation to the ECU.

Here's the link to the spreadsheet I've done. It's still quite rough, but adjustments might be needed here and there.

http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?k...LMHIxcHc&hl=en

No it doesn't. There are a bunch of options for mounting it though. I have the first produced RE-Speed adapter tower with the -10AN fitting on it for both pressure and temp. You could also just use a generic -10AN coupler with an 1/8" npt port. I would kinda prefer to know what the temp is as it exits the engine, rather than as it goes back in. I think that information would be more usefull even if it is scary as hell.

Stock one won't work. You'll need to get something that latches to grnd.

Same thing, need something that latches to gnd.

Suck it up man, get the AutoMeter replacement senders. They're Delco or Dephi replacements for like $90. It's good info to have ESPECIALLY on a boosted engine. You know my history. With pressure vs MAP you can make a correction table that could keep you from chunking an engine.

On the MoTeC's - yes

CAN bus is the way. Setup is specific to the combination. Which dash are you going with?

I'll check it out in a bit..... going to weld a fuel cell

Okay, I'll add it to the list of crap I need to buy still.
SOB... alright, well add another to the list, :lol: I think I'll be saying this a lot.

+1 to list.

to the list it goes

For future reference so does the Platinum series ECU's from Haltech.:lol:

I'm just going with a simple Racepak IQ3 display dash (no logging capability built in to it), but it does has some nice features for not tons of money.

:o10::o10::o10::o10: I want to TIG too!:o10::o10::o10::o10: GL with it! No contaminatin' the metal with your man juices now.

Hey B,
what sensor are you using for sump level? I've found some SS floaters for around 100, but I think that might be over kill.

floaters... :smilielol5:

Using the stocker

I thought you said it had to be two wire? Doesn't the sender only have one? I'm so confused.

Well, I'm going to try the liberal/dem approach here and say, well, yeah I said that, but I didn't really mean it ;)

The stock sender must ground itself through the oil pan because when than circuit closes it latches to gnd. I've got that wire hooked to a digital input

Vex... He convinced me to go MoTeC... youre just delaying the inevitable:rofl:
But HOT DAMN!!! I cant deny its pricey. Haltech was my second choice. I have had some local experiece with it and it seems solid and very capable. The guy is running the E6X though. I think the new Platinum series is even more capable though.

Yeah, I'm going to run a PS1K (I'll have all the inputs/outputs I'll need)--for now. Factoring in my timeline for my final plans with the car there's really no need for me to go Motec now (later... yes... maybe...depends on technology).

As for my sensors I think I have an easy question that will put my confusion to rest:

Out of all the stock sensors what can I keep, and what must I replace?

What I know I can keep:
Low Sump Level--May need some work
Coolant Temp Sender
Thermocouples (will need amplifiers)
Wideband O2 Sender/Controller


What I know I need to buy:
MAP
Low Coolant Sender
Oil Temp Sender

If it's not listed add it in.