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20B GT35R FC3S - hIGGI - REcycling project
Where should i start?
I own this red FC since 2003, had about 28 other FC's in meantime but this was keeper. All others were usually bought non-running and sold once fixed or bought for parts and scraped. Or eventually crashed myself and then scraped. Last 5 years it was running in this setup : T3 footprint 1.06 A/R GT35R Greddy V-spec FMIC K2RD rad Flex a lite black magic fan 2 stock oil coolers in series, both thermostats working S5 TII block, rebuilt, streetported Haltech E6K 2x 680 (GSL-SE) and 2x 1680 injectors GM pump intank feeding fuel surge tank and Bosch 044 pump feeding stock fuel rails Crane Hi6 on leadings Apexi EL2 gauges (all 6) Apexi AVC-R (oldschool, not the blue stuff) OS Giken TS2A twinplate clutch/flywheel S5 TII trans TII diff with torsen internals Some brake mods which could be found in my other thread here on forum Racing Beat swaybars (front/rear) HKS Hipermax D' coilovers Apexi N1 catback, 3" downpipe, midpipe and thats how it stand when i was running it this summer at Czech Drift Series 2010 (last race i entered was 20th of July) http://smik.euweb.cz/photo/49_cds_most/01.html http://smik.euweb.cz/photo/49_cds_most/28.html http://smik.euweb.cz/photo/49_cds_most/32.html Now, in meantime i found out one local guy (our club member) has a 20B. He got it with bunch of other engines, he knew its value and he knew for sure he will not be able to get it running. His plan was just 'own it'. I suppose with the rising age, people tend to collect things just for the fun of collecting it, without being able to use it. When i asked if he will sell it to me, i heard NO. Hmm. Well, lets try something else. By that time i had as well TII cabrio, very high mileage, needing new top, paint, rebuild etc. So kind of rare and valuable and kind of priceless and useless for me, without spending bank on it. It was best thing i could have offered for trade. And yes, it worked. Cabrio left shed and i got 20B. http://rx7.cz/gallery/qdig-files/con...d_IMG_1909.JPG All strip and teardown pictures are here : http://rx7.cz/gallery/?Qwd=./3rotor&Qiv=thumbs&Qis=M Yeah, it was blown, in need of new stat.gear bearings, 2 rotors and 2 rotor housings. My friend is honest and he gave me 2 good FD rotors and rotorhousings when we tore it apart and found out what needs to be replaced. I ordered 3 new stat.gear bearings, 2 new dowel pins and some o-rings. I was more lucky than smart and sold E6K and injectors from my 13BT setup and purchased Haltech PS2000 and 3 new white bosch 1680's around $60 a piece. Since engine was opened, i did small porting on it, water jacket mod and of course, exhaust ports are all FD. In august i had some spare time, removed 13BT, assembled dummy engine and started testfiting. Pictures of that could be found here in public galleries : Day one - http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...9&l=3eca92fc38 Day two - http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...9&l=d237b8c199 and day three - http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...9&l=f48bbddfaf Not all of it was final, but it gave me idea how it will look and fit. These 3 days however meant confirmation of my downpipe/wastegate/manifold setup for my current turbo, which i reused from 13BT. Not the nicest job on making 3rd runner from front, but it works. Since turbo position is same like on my 2 rotor config, intercooler piping stayed same as well. However, radiator had to be moved forward. Everything else looked pretty simple, no different than any other 13BT build. Now, from that point, i dont have working camera and pretty much no pictures, but i was not lazy and build the wiring loom, build and installed engine and thanks to BDC and Scott@Haltech got it running and so far have about 800km on it.... I am using stock FC trailing igniters (6 of them) to fire 6 individual coils (out of FC trailing coil packs). I had them, i used them. For primary injectors, i used stock 20B 550's. And for swaybar i fitted Z32 (Nissan 300ZX) one which i got for free. 27mm (my RB is 29mm, stock TII is 24mm) Summer was nice and warm, i worked mostly outside in the shed and if someone will ask, i can tell him that 20B FC build could be 2 month issue even if you dont buy any pre-made parts specific for it. How much did it cost ? I am guessing around $2k total now and if i will sell my 13BT i will probably have more money than what i had before i started 20B swap..... |
Sick nasty.
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Looking good... You drifting in Romania at all....
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Pulled primary injectors to clean them in ultrasonic bath, should start it again tomorrow to see if its better.
Camera still not repaired. Otherwise nothing new, waiting for package with solid diff and subframe mounts to clear customs. |
Installed solid diff and subframe mounts yesterday, took it for spin today and i still have diff/driveshaft/trans movement....next thing is to put on solid engine/trans mounts and if it does not help, then replace driveshaft and trans....
I wish i had PPS (powerplant subframe) like FD, miata and RX-8 |
Changed mazdaspeed engine and trans mounts and replaced them with solid aluminium mounts. Another testdrive and result is still same, bad noise/movement in the shifter after gear change.
Either my rearend is still moving (car is stretching? :D) or driveshaft/trans is bad. Next thing is to change driveshaft. Transmission will be last.... Energy suspension mounts for 27mm 300ZX swaybar arrived today, will install them next week along with changing driveshaft.... Adjusted map in PS2k little bit for cold starts, but still have a lot of changes to make... Sorry, still no camera (no pictures/videos) |
Measured compression today, pretty much all internals are used (apex seals, springs, rotors, housings etc but within specs)
About 1000km's from first start Rotor 1, Rotor 2 http://rx7cz.net/pics/comptestR1R2.JPG Rotor 2, Rotor 3 http://rx7cz.net/pics/comptestR2R3.JPG Its been snowing today, not sure if i will put any more km's before real winter kicks in.... |
Hey Higgi,
Long time since we talked last. Pretty cool project. Also cool dual rear brakes on your web site:) |
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Thanks :) |
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Small update, adapter for EWP and alternator relocation is done.
It might not be pretty, but it was cheaper than buying some $100 adapter and who knows how much for hoses. I reused part of old water pump housing and spent less than $100 on welding and it fits stock FC radiator hoses (upper one has to be cut). I have lot of good stock FC rad hoses in spare parts bin, being able to use them makes things cheaper and follows the idea of REcycling project.... Pictures of it mounted on car not yet, but its there :) Will take them next week when i will get back to car. http://rx7.cz/pics/EWP_001.JPG http://rx7.cz/pics/EWP_002.JPG http://rx7.cz/pics/EWP_003.JPG http://rx7.cz/pics/EWP_004.JPG |
bigger update
Alternator and EWP mounted and tested about 30km on road, both in vacuum and under boost driving...We developed own controller, but after testing it out and finding it never slows down the pump on 20B because temp never drops under 80C, i ditched. Running pump at constant full speed now, it does not take long to get car warmed up and temperature never falls under 80C. Peak temp measured today = 92C Oil temp peak = 80C Fuel temp peak = 41C Max boost set by wg spring 8,2 psi which it will make at 3000 RPM exactly. My HKS GT wastegate is leaking, will have to remove it and inspect, even at idle i can clamp atmo vent by hand and feel its leaking... Boost AFR's in 10.5 or so, fairly safe side, EGT at 800C max (probe after turbo, been running up to 900C on 13BT before) Car seems to have some power, there are still things to take care of, but in general it feels good. And i find myself using brakes more and harder than before. One problem i found and need to address is logging fuel pressure. In logs, i can see fuel pressure fluctate a lot, which might be caused by going out FPR (will try another one), by weak pump (1 bosch 044) or lastly by 1680's injectors pulsations when they open up under boost...my fuel pressure sensor is at the end of the fuel rail, barely more than 3 cm's from last secondary injector..... By looking at log, now i can see i am hitting 97,9 duty cycle on injector, need to find out if haltech is showing that for INJ1 or secondary injectors....or some sort of combination... |
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Ok, got bit smarter overnight thanks to Hitman and SteveKan.
Logged values are just primary injectors, which are maxing out before hitting staging bar and due to primary hold mode, they hold at whichever duty cycle they were, before secondaries kicked in.... Solution - lean it out in primary injectors area, bigger value in disenrichment or moving staging bar from 1,5psi to 0psi........ In next log i will add as well secondary injectors duty cycle and injection time.... |
It came together pretty good! Nice progress....
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This is one of the most beautifully ghetto builds I've ever seen. :icon_tup:
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Higgi that is awesome. I wish I was still in Germany to see it. That Gold FC I bought off you awhile ago was great. I sold it to my buddy and bought a FD. I still miss that FC, I never had any problems with that car.
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I have taken car to drift training and testing event on friday, had great time there and here are some overviews.
I drove car to and from event (150km each way) and made another 200km on the track. First tests week ago in warmer (20C) day showed EWP should run at constant full speed, no need to regulate it. However, friday morning when i took of towards track, temperature was around 5C and whole trip to the track (no boosting, but high speed) my temperatures were too low in 60-70C range and i definately should have taken controller with me. Return trip was in afternoon, warmer (around 15C) and coolant temps without controller have not dropped under 75C and aweraged at 83C. My efan starts at 90C, shuts off at 85C and highest temps on the way back i have seen were 91C. On the track data for 30min run Coolant lowest 84C, highest 96C, awerage 86C. Oil temps in 80C-100C range Intake air temps highest 37C, awerage 34C I was boosting only to wastegate spring which is 8 psi, but wastegate is leaking (exhaust manifold too :) and does not hold the pressure in higher rpm's..... I probably might get coolant temps more stable with controller and controlling efan with Haltech PWM instead of On/Off switch, but its not that bad already Overall good feeling from first drifts with the car, still a lot of things to tweak and fix, but EWP works and for summer / racing i wont need the controller, but for trips to track i should connect it. Hotter days and smaller track will tell us more... Pics and videos already somewhere in Facebook, hopefully will have some linkable here to forum. |
Vids look good.
Looks like you're carrying a lot of speed through the high speed curves. The car is making a lot of smoke. Increased torque makes it easier now? :) -Ted |
Torque is very noticable, and as well turbo now spools at 3000 rpm instead of 4000 with 13B....
Tune is very rich but overall it feels quite good :) |
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Dam higgi. NICE!
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nice.
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Josh told me he was trying to get another car off you. Car looks Great. Is that your same car from before did you finally paint it?
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Yes, Josh got new car from me last year and no, i still have not painted mine and it really needs it, but there are more important expenses and no cash for paint left :)
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hiGGi, did you replace those 20b exhaust sleeves with 13b open ones?
I really like your innovative thinking. You build with what you have. Well done! Barry |
Yes, i have used 13B FD sleeves.
Should we call my innovative thinking just outcome of worlds financial crisis? With this angle, we can as well come to conlusion that world needs a lot worse crisis for people to start thinking... |
You sir are a bad ass. Amazing car.
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Thanks guys!
There is still a lot things to fix and work on, but its driveable and it could be taken to the track for competition, which is important for me. Here is short vid from testing session : http://vimeo.com/22772185 |
Sweet Higgs.
I really should have a vacation and come visit one day. |
Small update :
Still dealing with ECU injector driver overheating, but in meantime managed to win round 2 of Czech Drift Series (Street class, no rollcage). Here is small vid : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeXs_tqqIa4 |
Good job!
Seen the pics of the podium, but my Czech is still kinda lacking... :) Dobrý! -Ted |
Thanks! :)
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Ok, more updates
Switched to Common mode, moved staging point lower, re-tuned fuel map but problem still persist. Injector duty cycles are hitting only 70% in peak now(both primary/secondary), but ECU is still hot and after one hour of beating it, it starts shutting down injector driver. Turning key on/off (reseting ECU) gets it back running immediately, but once higher rpm's/boost is applied, it overloads and shuts again. Now, new idea to deal with problem : If my problem is really caused by shutting down injector driver, i could run secondaries on external injector driver (taking the heat out of Haltech) http://www.fjoracing.com/products/injdrvr/ I just need it here tomorrow, to try it out. |
Awesome!!!
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Short update now, more little bit later....
Season is over (last race was this weekend at GP track in Brno, finished 1st in street class, 2nd place overall. Technically : ECU problems solved by cutting 2 large holes to Haltech case and putting 2 computer fans there. Worked without any problems for last 3 races. One month ago stock TII transmission died, i replaced it with another one and enjoyed last race. Now its time to order transmission rebuild kit and build one perfect trans + one good spare case. Hopefully will be able to post some pics/vids. |
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