TitaniumTT/Speed1 Junkyard turbo 'Vert here we go DGRR fire build
 

One more year, one more build thread.... I will not be continuing on with the FC coupe right now. Back in November @ a PCA event I missed a shift @ 143 mph down the front straight and over-revved the hell out of the engine. The rotor touched the plate, gouged it, broke a corner seal, dented the rotor and warped a few apex seals. It's going to be a while until that engine is back up and running and there are some other things I want to do to the car as well before she gets back into action.... namely repaint a efw panels, go through the interior a bit, and add WI controlled through the MoTeC.... sooooooo since I've had this car for almost 2 years and haven't really touched it, I figure I'd get this done before DGRR which is in exactly 63 days! 63 days to build an entire car, break it in, shake her down, tune and drive her down to DGRR.... this is why it's a fire build.

A brief history of the car... I bought it almost 2 yrs ago for $800 with about $2000 worth of parts. The original intent of the PO was a turbo swap because he blew 2 coolant seals... although he only knew about the 1. He was an IT guy and in my experience, no offense to the IT guys reading this, they seem to think that because they deal with computers and cutting edge technology all day long that they can tackle anything. This guy got the mani's off before he realized he was in over his head. The car sat for 3 years before I picked it up almost 2 yrs ago. It was garage kept it's entire life until I got it. Although it was a daily and the harsh NE winters did take it's toll on the body and the top. Soooooooo yeah... she ain't in the greates shape but that's ok, we'll bring her back.

My original intent in rebuilding the car was to rebuild the n/a engine and it would be a b-day gift for my mother. I actually bought it on my mothers b-day. When I hauled the engine out I realized that it would cost a fortune to rebuild that engine. Both plates lost coolant seals... which was fine because the rotors were basically steamcleaned for me (and they are going to be donated to my coupe... yup, S4 n/a 9.4:1 rotors in a boosted engine... should be fun) but the rest of the engine was WORN THE HELL OUT. It needed every new seal imagineable. So I started looking for donor engines. Then of course I started thinking, I'm never going to find a good used n/a engine, so I'll start looking for some turbo engines last year and I found 1. Exactly 1 year to the day after I bought the car, I bought the engine.... also on my mothers b-day. The engine sat for MONTHS until I finally enlisted the help of Kyle (seen in the pics later) to run back to CT with me to get my blown coupe engine, the 'vert engine, and the 'vert.

The plan was, break down my coupe engine and get that thing sorted. She still started and ran fine, and aside from a little lope @ idle, made great power... could roast 3 gears to redline with the TC off. We all thought it was a broken side seal, flattened Apex seal springs, sticking corner seal... something, not what it actually was. So after seeing that carnage I looked to the 'vert as the car I would be bringing to DGRR.... oh shit we all thought.

It's a little dark out so I can't get pic's of the car... but the day it arrived @ the shop we were looking in the parking lot at cars that needed to be moved. Dave is saying, "move this, move that, put that one here, bring that one in, tourch that one, fuck that one..... WHO'S FUCKING PIECE OF SHIT 'VERT IS THAT?!?!?!!?"
He turn's to me because I had mentioned bringing the car up and he says, "Is that yours? What a fucking lump. Did you pull that out of a junkyard last week?" Henceforth the car was lovingly titled Junkyard 'vert. I've got boxes of parts, totes full of shit, and a few bins in the Engine room all titles Brian T Speed1 Junkyard 'Vert :rofl: Everytime he makes a comment it just gives me more motivation to get her done and done right.

The TitaniumTT/Speed1 title comes from well, the fine gents here have offered thier help when they can to make this project happen. Mostly it will be Kyle (ridiculously talented body guy) and Chris (badass engine builder) helping me out when they're not too tired... and they're both younger than me... fucking kittens, both of them :smilielol5:

Sooooo true to form... I'm waiting until I don't think I have enough time left to start a project that can't be finished just to make sure that I can make back some dividends in RedBull stock... although I have found the Starbucks energy drinks to be a little more energyifying.....

The engine I bought was used. It was sold to me as this badass monster port grandmaster cryo'ed sick ass engine. It was nothing like that. it was a totally sotck port, stock apex seal, stock bearing'ed STOCK STOCK STOCK engine. I couldn't be happier. This is a car for my mother. I want good street manners, I want a solid idle. A stock clutch is going in with a stock flyheel. Stock gears and a stock turbo. The engine management will be handled by a Haltech PS2000 (yes, two thousand) and heat exchanging will come from a fluidyne rad, FD twin oil coolers, and a W2A intercooler based of the stock TMIC. It's going to be tricky becuase I already have an Atihun hood so clearance might become an issue.

I've collected everything I need, except for of course the 2 years a project like this would normally take, so holly shit, lets get to work!!!

After I tore the engine down I cleaned most of the parts and inspected everything. The housings looked good, not great, but good, typical wear along the edges. The plates were in damn fine shape, except for the lime green paint that's on them, and the rotors looked great. This engine was supposed to have 7-8k on it.... if it did, whoever built it shouldn't have re-used the main bearings, and whoever tuned it needs to step away from the dyno... so damn rich it was retarded. You'll see a few pics of my rotors in there. They have 2x the mileage on them and 1/4 of the carbon buildup.... 'nuff said.

I'll be updating this thread daily with times spent and what's been done.

Tonight we got the housings and the front cover cleaned up and painted. I also broke the rotors down so I can clean all the seals and the rotors themselves. I wanted to spend some time tonight stripping off some of the nasty ass lime green paint but got on the phone with the girlfriend for 75 minutes so that didn't happen... oh well.... what can you do. Plan is still to get this engine built Sunday, get the car in the shop on Friday night and start tearing into the wiring on Monday. I know FC wiring DAMN well so it shouldn't be that hard at all to get that done and out of the way. Wiring the Haltech will probably consume about 20+ hours though... and yes, I sense a great deal of all nighters, sleeping on the couch, and dragging my as into work late some mornings.... the price of a rotary, what can I say.... on to the pics....

Steels... started preping the rear iron by getting that nasty paint off and pulling out the nipples for the heatercore and the TB.... I have my standard plans for those :suspect:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1329371472

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1329371472

Our badass painter helping me out doing painting type things... he actually left me to spray the parts myself. I guess after doing that Vielside car from start to finish he figures his time is too precious for a hosuing :smilielol5: Just kidding Kyle, love ya man.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1329371472

Housings painted. We taped them up so you couldn't see my supersecret black magic stock ports ;)

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1329371472

Front iron all set.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1329371472

Bins full of parts... the coupe engine is actually disasssembled and underneath those pigs... I'm sad about that engine.

Let me get what's in those two boxes(wire and sleeving)!! Lol.

Here you can see the rotors that I'll be using. That's a retarded amount of carbon for 7-8k... REALLY? But they seem to be in PERFECT shape so I can't really complain at all about them. They're soaking in puple power right now. Hopefully Friday night I'll get a chance to clean them up and the seals. I usually frown upon re-using old seals. but this is going to be a 250-280RWHP car at full boost.... oh yeah, there will be a boost trim switch installed so we can go from Mom mode - Wastegate, to Brian mode - as much boost as the stock turbo will handle :rofl:

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1329372248

Here you can see the rotors that I took out of the coupe. If you look closely you can see the dent that was left. Oh well, glad they were cryo'ed, that's all I'm saying. My EGT's got a little out of control, hence the reason for the WI going into the car.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1329372248

This is what killed me RE plates. Both front and rear touched. Damn....

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1329372248

And here's the broken corner seal. I'm debating going with sold corners but I think I'll be sticking with stock. Not to sure yet. Opinions are welcome as always.

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1329372248

NO!!!!! I actually started making my own wire rack for all that shit... and that's only about 1/2 of what I got. I didn't bring out any of the Tefzel ;)

New word of the day :)

Good luck with the build, hope to see it at the show and maybe this year I'll actually get to chat with ya.

Hopefully you don't plan on reusing the bearings. Everytime I soak rotors in that stuff it eats and pits the Bearing surfaces.

I am def jelly oF the wire supply. You'd shit yourself if you saw our wire dept at work. Lol.

Agree, I've personally seen the aftermath of what has happened from using Purple Power to clean the rotors and not catching before assembly. The motor ran ok for a short period of time till oil pressure was lost.

Yea I hate using/buying new bearings. Esp if they are still good. It's always better to use original bearings than new ones if possible.

Your guys shop looks ficking awesome man!!! Soo much room. Can't wait to see how this turns out!

3rd on the Purple Power. Don't let bearings or aluminum soak in it. Wear gloves too, unless you want a chemical peel.

Everyone loves that fresh new flesh you get from using that stuff. It's like buying new skin. Lol

as usual, always pushing the almost impossible timeline which wouldn't be bad if you weren't working on everyone elses crap (RE/FB) you should have posted pics of the trashed plates too.

I can't help but feel somewhat targeted with a statement like that :)

However, who do you think built that awesome Motec Software you enjoy using all day? Wasn't a tuner... although I'm sure a tuner played a big part.


Anyway - as always, I'm looking forward to seeing how this one comes together and it's about time. It's almost as bad as your FD that's been sitting without any attention. :toetap05:


Is there a reason why you DONT want to use solid corner seals? If you don't have enough reason to go against them, I'd use 'em. I don't think they would have held up to that rev count either though....

:rofl: Yeah it is.

Thanks man..... it should be there, I definately will be and yeah, I'd like that. Without the coupe and me going in cognitus, I should be able to meet alot more people this year.

Really? I've soaked them in that stuff before... the stuff at work... and they come out awesome. No pits no nothing.

How so? like good way or bad way?

Damn.... I'll check 'em out real good, thanks for the tips.

Yup yup/

Thanks Zach, lots of fun here that's for damn sure.... you're only seeign about 33% of the space we have

Wow... thanks for the tip... it can't be that stuff then.... becuase I've been in it without gloves, no ill effect, the bearings I pulled out looked great... I dunno... I'm all worried now to see what these things will look like when I take them out tonight

And a big thanks to you Chris, you've already helped alot with some of your products!

:smilielol5:

:rofl: Yup, I wouldn't be me if I wasn't doing just that ;)
Well, I figure I got 10hrs a day to work on everyone elses stuff and get paid for it. 4 hours to do my own stuff. I've got 300+ hours to get the 'vert done. That's 7 normal weeks.... it shouldn't take that long. The key is the discipline to spend the time EVERY night and one full day off on it. If I can do that, it shouldn't be a problem... but yeah... 62 days to build a car :banghead:

Yeah yeah yeah... don't take it personally,... you're one of the few I guess ;)


Yeah, about that... I've had that car for over 2 years now... that will be a full rotisserie build, 20k in parts, full resto-mod THAT car will take me 2-3 years to do at the pace that I'm doing the 'vert :rofl: Once the TTCoupe is back and running, I'll get the FD in my shop and up on the rotisserie and start plugging away. Once it's in primer, the undercarriage is done, and i've got all new bushing, toelinks, etc etc one and the arms are powdercoated, I'll bring her out to PA to start...


Yes, I am aware of 2. Atkins and RX7 specialties. Atkins have a tremendous break in period and don't have the same compression as the stocks... or so Dave has seen. RX7 Specialties warned us not to use them on used housings, they will wear them tremendously..... sooooo yeah. That seal broke becuase the plate touched. It the plate didn't touch, I didn't overrev it, we wouldn't be talking about it, I'd go back to stock.

Any project that gets worked on makes me jelly. I have unlimited time, but no where to work unless it's warm.

In my experience with my stock clutch/disc/flywheel combo and my stock ports/ stock turbo with FMIC and SprintRE.... the stock clutch may not be up to the task of Brian Mode. Once we tuned it on the interstate and the outside temperature got lower than 70deg my clutch slips in 4th. Now that it is winter, it slips in 2nd, and I'm only running about 12-13psi at 5-6k and it bleeds down to about 8-9psi by 7k. Its still drivable, but not under full power.

That's a shame. We built an annex off the garage to house the landi. Nothing more than a simple frame and shrink-wrap. Add an 80,000 btu heater and it'll get up to 80* in the winter easy. It rocks. You should do it... do it NAOW!

Uh oh. That's unfortuneate. Well, that's something we'll find out on the dyno. How much power are you making at 5, 6, and 7K? What kind of shape was your clutch in?

Clutch was a brand new complete unit from Tennessee Clutch Supply. I ordered it from them as a upgraded pressure plate, but when I put it in the pedal was softer than what was an upgraded clutch on the jspec I'm using. So, I kinda got boned, but the clutch itself is smooth and works great up to peak power. This doesn't speak well for my statement, but the clutch itself was brand new.

I don't know how much power I'm making. I haven't tested it with the Haltech installed and tuned. Right after we got it tuned (in August heat) is when the clutch started slipping, and that wasn't on a dyno. I doubt I'm making judgeIto power :) due to me having stock ports, but the car feels pretty quick. I've got the tune pretty good at 11.2-11.5 AFRs at full load and 17deg @ 10 and 13.5deg at 15psi timing (again, no dyno to try to push higher).

***Before DGRR I plan to swap in my original PP in hopes that the extra clamping force will help. (Don't want to spend too much $$ bc the car will soon be parted)

Brian- is that the engine that I found for you? Turned out to be stock huh. Figured for how cheap it was.

Waiting pics of the actual Junkyard Vert itself.

(and your mom :suspect: )

:leaving: :willy_nilly:

Want a fancy roll hoop. I may have enough 1038 Dom left to put a bend in. Or double miata style?

Don't melt the bumper! I have not had time to get a bumper to make more covers.


Good work Brian as always!


Also there may not be much progress but I do have a lot of questions in my build thread if ya guys wanna help me out. Sorry....sorry..

Thanks man... shit dude, asl away..

Hmmmm, I think you may have gotten a shit PP.... I dunno though. I'd be curious what happens with a daiken Mazda deal...

Dude... stock ports can yield insane numbers. Highest I've hear of was 603, I've personally seen over 500 on stock ports. So yeah... don't put to much stock in mystical ports. Besides, you can increase flow alot without changine timing. This is what I plan on. I want to hit or beat 280rwhp with the stock turbo.

BRING THAT SHIT UP HERE! I'll squeeze some more power out on the dyno. FWIW I run 19* @ 17psi and 11.7-12.0 afr's ;) But that's on the Motec...

What? Like parted out? Why?

I think it may have been. Complete longblock for like $1200?

Prob when it gets in the shop, it's snowing right now..

That... what's wrong with you DJ? :rofl:

Hm.... I may do that very soon, but use some old tin we have laying around. It will save me from having to sell my roller before I leave for schoolin. I don't want it sitting around in the yard, growin weeds and sinking into oblivion haha.

You might have to tell me some of these mystic ways... but first I need a PP that won't slip.

Wow, i've been scared to pump up the timing too much without a dyno.. maybe I can at least do 20@10 and 15@15?

Damn this slipping PP is sure holding me back!!

To pay for and cannibalize parts for my truck project. Also, I don't want to HAVE to park my car in a garage to keep it dry inside. Soooooo, it will enjoy one more DGRR (this time with coilovers) and then the motor and trans (gearbox at least) and ecu will start to go into the truck.

Also, interesting note since you love testing things! We have a PP tester here at work that measures the clamping force. So far i've measured a used 100k rx8 PP (800lbs), and my unknown bass boat blue painted jdm t2 PP (920lbs). When I get some spare time I'll test brand new off the shelf ones and any other upgraded ones I can get my hands on. I'll also be testing my current shitty PP to see how it compares to stock, but that won't happen for a while.

What's right is a better question.

Definately... I hate seeing projects abandoned.

There's nothing mystical or secret about it really ;)

Dyno won't tell you the whole story... you really need EGT's and EMAP as well... EGT's are more important though. Stock timing on the FD was something like 20* @ 1Bar. But like I said.... you really do need a dyno and an EGT datalogs...

Yeah, it really sounds like it dude... AFR's are a touch rich as well... I'd run 12:1 @~7-8lbs... well... are you using the stock CAS? That will effect your timing as well....

LAME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That would be badass.... I'd like to see that...

Sure as shit would be a shorter list :rofl:

So if you did find this engine DJ... fuck you. I pulled the rotors out of the cleaning solution. if it was purple power... it didn't touch the bearings after a 24 hr soak.... regardless, the rear rotor at some point in it's life ingested a bolt and dented the shit out of the rotor.... KNOW YOUR ENGINE BUILDER!!!!!!!!!!!!! Sooooo now I'm looking at the coupes old rotors and counterweights... but I would need an aftermkt flywheel :banghead: Goes against what I wanted to do with the car so I'll have to sleep on it.

Tonights list WAS going to be clean the rotors and all the seals but that's going to hold off until I decide what to do. That and someone who likes crazy deadlines more than me is on his way out here right now from Queens to pick up some parts that I haven't welded yet :rofl: So I'm going to hop on that, then I'll continue on with cleaning the irons and getting them ready to be ported.... I'll get some pics of the rotor up before the night is out.... pissed am I..... fuckers 1 day in and already a setback. Oh well..... it's not like there isn't enough still to do :smilielol5:

Hey, I found it, you bought it!

So much hate!

:squint:

I have a question. Could you dulite the puple power? If so that may prevent the bearing from being pitted however I am not familar with this product.

Also "Sir admin". does this mean you are not going to be bring your custom badass trailer to DGRR?

why FD coolers?

FWIW I used a big brass brush wheel to clean my rotors. Brass is perfectly safe on iron parts. MEGA CLEAN ROTORS!!!! For the tiny spots and edges, I used a Dremel with the paint stripping bits. They are kind of like hard sponge, and come in different colors. Finally, for grooves and other crevices, I used carb cleaner and old seals.

It's somewhat therapeutic cleaning rotors...

PS
Don't buy into the myth that using a brush will wear the cadmium coating on the rotor. That was temporary for a long time ago when the rotors were first made and they sat on shelves... Some people don't seem to realize cadmium has a lower melting point than lead. The coating is long gone by now.

You ain't seen nothing yet!!!!

The trailer will bolt to any FC, I just have to wire it up. So yes, if I get it tagged, then I will be bringing it. it passed the inspection, I just need to get to the DMV which is about 150 miles away...

Becuase i am a firm believer in every heat exchanger having it's own source of fresh air. It's why my coolant temps stay ~180 on the track, and my AIT's stay damn near ambient. I'll be using a fluidyne rad that I'm going to make into a double pass, but I need to fit the exchanger for the W2A intercooling infront of it. up higher which is why the flyidyne will be a double pass. If I stuck with an FC oil cooler, there would be a wall of heat exchangers between the nose of the car and the rad..... no bueno.

Yes, yes it is... I use nothing but old seals and a brass brush and lots of carb clean..

I usually do it with the radio cranked, but tonight I had the Ipod on... if anyone saw me it would've been embarassing... I was actually singing along :rofl:

Official update: 62 days left and not much done... Colin came by to colelct his parts so I spent a fair amount of time welding tonight, and then a fair amount of time on the phone... I did start cleaning the rotors and I did start working on the front iron... taking teh paint off. Luckily for me I put in so much time this week @ work, I'll be clocking out early and will have probably 6-8 hrs tomorrow night. Plan is to decide which rotors to use, finish cleaning up the center iron, port all three and tape them off for paint on saturday... then build build build on Sunday... so we'll see what happens.

Off to play a quick game of chess then back to the parts washer .... then there's a shower with my name all over it

What seals are you using in the rebuild? Were any reusable in that motor that you plan to keep in it (IE: side seals, corner seals, etc)

GL man - word down this way is snow on Sunday so you all are hosed :)

I am sure you'll have plenty of time to hate all over my RX-8 at DGRR.

I'll be sure to make a bed of rose petals for you and Paul to lay in while admiring your matching turbo verts. :grouphug:

Why not other TDI coolers? They are the parent company of Fluidyne. I have worked with them on a few big projects. Pm me if you want the details.

How do you find so much time to post and work on your car? Post pic too :) See you at the DGRR.

Stock 2-piece Apex Seals & Springs - Useable and will reuse
Stock Side seals and springs - Useable and will re-use
Stock Corner seals - Meh... they look ok at best. I'll probably snatch those from my coupe rotors
Oil Control rings and O-rings. Looked awesome and the rings feel brandy new. Re-using those.

I decided that I'm going to rock some S4 N/A rotors becuase I want to keep the stock S4 flywheel. The counterweights are the same so the engine will be balanced. Tomorrow Chris (our badass engine builder) and I are going to go through the stock of rotors we have and find the best looking ones. Not caring about bearings because we have a damn nice set of bearings waiting in the freezer we can press in if we need to. I have brand new main bearings in the fridge waiting to be pressed in.

So tomorrow I need to find rotors and get the bearings dealt with. I also need to press in the main bearings. Mic out the e-shaft. Go through about 50 side seals and hope I can find 12 that get me to min Mazda spec... If not I have 14 new ones sitting in a box that were bought for the coupe, I can snag those if need be because that engine ain't going back together soon and order new ones when need be. Paint the steels and maybe repaint the housings/front cover. Need to see how the color scheme looks after the steels are painted. Fun times ahead for tomorrow!

Whatchu talkin' bout man? We ain't getting snow, rain and maybe 1"

Psh... I'll do something all over the hood of your 8 :rofl:

Yeah, our 'verts don't match.... mine will be together in a year ;)

Hmmmmm. shoot me a PM, I'm curious what you're talking about.

Another benefit of FD coolers, they'er here and they're practically free ;)

I live off of a carefully measured amount of RedBull, coffee, Starbucks energy drinks, zingers and Omelettes... and it's time for my omelette :rofl:

And I have a strict, "I'll sleep when I'm dead" attitude.

It's just dicipline. Theres a solid 15 hours in a day that are useable.

I will post some pics tomorrow. Right now I do need to eat and sleep, work tomorrow and the gf is coming up, need to be rested.

Official update from tonight though, with 61 days left. Got the plates fully cleaned and prepped. Got the plates ported and got my nipples tapped in. Also re-tapped off the housings and front cover incase I do decide to re-paint them I can do it tomorrow. I didn't get EVERYTHING done that I wanted to, but that's ok, tomorrow.... err today rather, is another day.