79SA to 87EFI NA, It looked so simple at first!
 

This is a mostly after the fact build thread on the engine swap for those that are interested. I didn't want to clutter up the forum with something until I knew I could actually complete it. This is the first thread like this I've ever tried to post, so please bear with me. My pics aren't as complete as others since I didn't take them in progress and the car is FINALLY together. I'm just trying to show what I've been up to as a couple of people have asked for.

I'll being updating more regularly as I do the suspension and other work.

This is rather lengthy, since it took most of a year to get to this point (I'm not the fastest worker nor the brightest flower in the pot), and it's all coming in one big lump. I'll have to break it up into separate posts as the Forum can only accept 5 pics at a time. And no, it's nowhere near as pretty as a lot of the projects I'm seeing on here.

So here goes..

I was looking for a small second car to get around in that would hopefully get better mileage than my pickup. I was looking on line when I found this 79SA for sale in Oklahoma by Apex Auto Parts. I remembered how much fun my 75 REPU was that I had during the late 70s- early 80s. I decided then and there I had to get another rotary.

They had bought it from a local kid, who drove it until it died. It didn't look like he'd caused too much damage, so I investigated. Supposedly it had been garaged for ten years before they bought it. They were planning to use it as a shop project. When money got tight they decided to sell it instead. This seems to happen to all of us at some time. The car was completely stock. The only modifications were a lame equalizer and hacked radio wires. The front and rear valance panels had been modified ala off-road driving (bent all to h***). The rear rotor had no compression, but it did run, sort of. The good part was that the interior was complete and in really nice shape. The body had only some surface rust, normal usage dings, and a little hail damage (this was from Oklahoma after all). I can live with fixing dents, but rust is a bugger to fix, (expensive too).

Sooo... after a quick trip down to Oklahoma City, and more money than I should have spent of course, it was mine. Here's the pics of when I bought it.
Attachment 11723 Attachment 11724 Attachment 11725 Attachment 11726 Attachment 11727

cont'd
 

here are some more pics.
Attachment 11728 Attachment 11729 Attachment 11730 Attachment 11731 Attachment 11732

cont'd
 

I looked on the forums to see what options I had for fixing the engine and exactly what I had let myself in for.

I've rebuilt quite a few different vehicles over the years, but never messed with a rotary. My old REPU was dead reliable, so I never had to tear into it. I pulled the 12A and tore it down. The rear housing was scored and needed replacement. After searching for a while I found that it is becoming quite hard to find decent 12A housings and parts (at least anything I'd want to use). The 13B FC parts are still relatively plentiful so I looked into going that route. After all, how hard can it be to replace a 12A with a 13B right? Shows how much I know!

Well I located a rusty rear-ended 87 GXL from Dukes770, on the other forum, in Olathe, Ks. He needed some of the body and interior parts for his TII. He didn't need the NA drivetrain. This sounded good to me and a good running NA 13B would have about half again as much power as the stock 12A did. So, more money and a trip to KC, and I now had a running, stripped out FC sitting in the yard. Sorry no Pics, you wouldn't want to have seen it anyway, as it was pretty ugly.

I started stripping down the 87 and decided to keep the EFI for the better economy. I needed to get my feet wet with computer controls anyway. I've mostly only messed with carbureted setups. I've been pretty impressed with what some of you guys have been doing with the programmable engine computers. Well one thing led to another...

I swapped the complete FC wiring harness, engine, transmission, fuel tank, and radiator. Yeah, I'm a glutton for punishment. I decided to keep the stock computer for now. I had it, and a standalone is out of my price range at this time.

Time I have, money's a little harder to come by. Later I'll get a good computer and commence playing.

I also decided to do a custom dual exhaust, since I don't really care for the look of the big single exhaust out the back. From reading up on performance mods here, most people say that a free flowing exhaust is one of the most important mods you can make on a rotary. So I ended spending a lot of time and money on this part of the build. I figured it was a good starting place. If I go forced induction later I'm going to need all the exhaust capacity I can get.

Well..., I bought an FB 13B cover and pan from Fong, on the other site, and fitted the engine and transmission to the SA. Everything went in without too much hassle. The 79 driveshaft even fit. I kept the shifter in the FC position as I'm short and the SA position was too far forward for me. Needless to say I had to modify the trans tunnel. Cut it out of the 87 and weld into the 79. I'm not the world's greatest welder. It all stuck good and I tried to always weld both sides just in case. I have a variable feed MIG welder. It varies the feed speed to whatever it feels like, which makes pretty welds rather difficult. I used more wire on my MIG than really necessary but I didn't want parts falling off going down the road, that's always embarassing.

Finished shifter position:

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6046/7...537fc206_c.jpg
Build13 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Somewhat baffled, and feeling kinda dumb.
 

Could someone please tell me how to post these pictures to make them appear in the larger size, like the other build threads. Like I said, I'm new to this and have very little clue how to work the Forum. It's doesn't seem to be addressed anywhere I could find it. I resized the photos to be within the stated parameters within the manage attachments portion, as suggested by Duffman692002. But they're still showing up small on the preview. I don't want to inconvenience anyone by having to constantly click on the pictures just to be able to see them.

Copy the image location, then paste it here like this:

[IMG]your picture link[/IMG]

If the image is hosted at rx7club, it won't work. You need to use something like photobucket, or I use Google Picasa.

FC Gauges? Looks good!

Thanks, I have a lot better pictures if I can ever figure out how to get them to link here.

Well, I took your advice djmtsu and loaded my pictures to photobucket. I tried to attach the IMG link here and all I get is an invalid image message. Thumbnails work from there just fine, but not the IMG links. Any ideas?, am I doing something wrong?

Try this again
 

Cont'd with the build thread.

I'm glad I'm not as inept with tools as I am with posting.

Next problem was the radiator and oil cooler. I wanted to keep the stock clutch fan and fan shroud. I wanted it to look almost stock but it wasn't gonna work in the space I had. So, cut the front radiator support from the 87, fit and weld into the 79. I remounted the oil cooler where most people put an intercooler. It should have good airflow down there. I had to build a custom airdam for it of course, but mine was trashed anyway (even if it would have fit). I also had to lower the front lip on the belly pan. Cut, Fit, weld, hack, slash, blood flying, oops getting carried away.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7237/7...5cf38ebb_c.jpg
Build01 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7250/6...4f4e4139_c.jpg
Build05 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6111/6...ef733f95_c.jpg
Build06 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

cont'd
 

Intake was the next problem. No matter how I looked at it, the stock filter was not going to fit. The 79 headlight door motors are right in the way, and I didn't want to open up that can of worms trying to reengineer that.

So, break out the welder, plasma cutter, and cut-off wheel. I opened the lower well beside the passenger side headlight motor, modified the airbox, and mounted the stock filter underneath, in all that nice open space in the front nose section. Yes the stock airbox went under there, but it took a lot of modifications to do it. It's protected from road crud by the passenger side lower sheetmetal. We now have a cold air intake. The filter is going to be a bit more of a pain to change than before though. I have to remove the lower panel and the fabricated (now removable) piece of the fenderwell to get at it. I just couldn't waste that new K&N air filter though. (What we won't do in the name of beauty.)

I then fabricated a box from sheet steel to connect the filter airbox to the MAF and used the stock plumbing to connect the two.

Trying to make it look like Mazda might have done it if the EFI had been available in 79. I think I came pretty close. Engine bay is rather cluttered right now, but will clean it up a little when I get around to paint.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7212/6...3f1d3c10_c.jpg
Build03 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

cont'd
 

I'm breaking this down into manageable bits. Sorry Mods if this isn't the way it should be done.

I then remounted all the peripherals to the 79 chassis.

A/C was next, and noo I'm not driving around in a Kansas summer without A/C. I used the 87 condensor in front of the radiator in the same position as it was on the 87. Moved the accumulator over by the battery so I could actually see the sight window and had new lines made, (mine were shot).

Then I routed them on the drivers side to the 79 compressor. No P/S, so I kept the 79 A/C mount. Hooked it all up and it fits, I don't know if it works yet, as I need to get a new compressor, found out my compressor is seized :cuss: and then I need to recharge the system.

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6230/6...00efdd48_c.jpg
Build04 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

cont'd
 

Now for wiring the harness.

Lots of time here, I was dreaming SA and FC wiring diagrams in my sleep for a while there. I had to figure out where to run everything in very limited space and make room for the extra relays and stuff needed. I also found that I was missing a lot of the little parts and the dash harness. I bought most everything I needed from BrettLinton7. He was a lifesaver. He had plenty of patience to answer lots of stupid questions.

I had to modify some of the wiring as the 79 ignition switch works differently than the 87 switch. (IGN2 is interrupted on start in the 87 and isn't on the 79). Also some of the accessories were positive actuated on the 79 and negative actuated on the 87. A few relays and it works.

I kept the 79 headlight and turn signal switches as well as the heater A/C controls, and console switches (Will use the antenna switch for a hatch release when I get around to that). Much better than the electronic stuff. I did keep the idiot light panel and the gauge cluster though. This was easier than rewiring the gauges, it also had 2 more gauges and the higher speedometer. As if I'm going to make it to 140 mph, Hah!

I had to modify the instrument bezel and make new dash mounts to mate the two, but it looks pretty much stock if you don't know what it's supposed to look like. I liked the white gauge numbers on the 79 better, but you can't have everything. Lots more time fiddling to get everything hooked up and working. Installed a clutch safety bypass switch (where the choke was at). Now I can turn the stupid thing on and off. The wiring is done. The center console still needs to be finished, but I did clean it up a little bit until I get around to doing it. I extended the wires and remounted the FC cruise control switch ro the center ashtray area for the 79. I don't smoke anyway. Eventually I plan to put in switches and hook up power windows and mirrors in the FC panel.

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6233/7...fb8159a9_c.jpg
Build14 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7196/6...fa23c99a_c.jpg
Build15 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7244/7...5528e844_c.jpg
Build16 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

here we go again
 

Next major hurdle was fuel.

I needed the EFI pump w/sump in the 87 tank. After lots of head scratching I decided to swap in the entire 87 tank and lines. I wanted the pump and setup that matched the engine and induction I was using, in order to head off those particular headaches. This also allowed me to free up the room on the driver's side for a muffler.

Of course, Mazda had to go and change the fuel filler from the driver's side to the passenger's side between the two generations. Being a masochist, I therefore had to center mount a new fuel fill opening behind the license plate. I used a leftover hinged plate holder I had from a 68 AMC AMX project.

After getting new pipe bent to connect to the passenger side, figuring out which rubber connectors would work, and some cutting/fitting, Voila'.

The 87 fuel tank is taller, so the spare tire well had to come out. Here we go again, cut out the well, cut the rear floor from the 87, trim to fit, put in bolts, weld down the nuts, and install seals. We have a new floor with a fuel pump access hole. Not the prettiest thing in the world but it's hidden under the carpet and more importantly, it works, and I have a larger tank to boot.

I had to figure out a way to bolt down my spare in the back hatch area as I no longer had room for it. Cut the center bolt down section from the original well and bolt onto the rear hatch floor, and fabricate a holder so I can run a center bolt through the wheel. The spare needed to be bolted down so I don't end up wearing it around my neck during a panic stop. Besides, it kind of reminds me of the old Ferraris with it mounted visible under the glass this way.:biggthumpup:

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6119/6...310a3e4b_c.jpg
Build12 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6234/7...8c8562be_c.jpg
Build10 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6054/6...327337fa_c.jpg
Build11 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

some more.
 

Back to exhaust.

Now that I had room for a second muffler (not much, but enough). I started looking at mufflers and routing. I then realized what they meant about putting 10 lbs. into the proverbial 5 lb. bag.

I went with the Spin Tech XL plus mufflers in the back (no packing), they went in with lots of fussing for clearance and the rear mounts got interesting for a while. I probably should have used the smaller 8" wide mufflers instead of the 10" wide ones. But I'm one sick puppy, remember? I used the Stainless Works smooth tubes (stainless packing) in the middle in a 32" length and had them put header flanges on both ends, so I can actually get my transmission out again.

The driver's side didn't really have enough clearance in the center of the floor tub so.., more cutting, more welding, and generous application of the BFH. I now had room.

Next problem was that blankedy, blank Watts link right in the way! From reading up in the posts I found it didn't work all that well anyway. So, contact G-Force Engineering for a panhard bar, more welding, no cutting this time thank God, and I had just enough room for a snake to squeeze through there.

I puchased the Racing Beat FC six port road race header, which went right on with no hassles at all. Now that was nice for a change.

I then had the exhaust shop connect the sections together, I do believe they thought I had lost a few marbles. They didn't have room for an H-pipe with the road road race header flange having the two exit pipes side by side within inches of each other. They ran the two pipes back and connected them to the center mufflers. I didn't want to run without a collector of some sort, there wasn't enough room from the header to the center mufflers for a traditional collector, so I cut the center portions from the two pipes at closest approach and joined them into a homemade collector. Again, not especially pretty, but it works.

The collector changed the exhaust tone to a deeper, smoother sound, a plus in my book, and hopefully helps performance. Although the exhaust came out a little louder than I was really trying for.

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6037/7...e1db709e_c.jpg
Build09 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7235/7...70191468_c.jpg
Build07 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7184/7...9c33cfe5_c.jpg
Build08 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

and again.
 

I replaced the brake master cylinder with the 87 unit, which necessitated making some new lines as the outlets are a little different and the 79 uses coarse thread instead of everyone else's fine thread. My master cylinder was shot, and I plan to put the 87 front subframe and braking system under it eventually anyway, so it seemed like a good idea at the time.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7085/7...7fb8e431_c.jpg
Build02 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Got everything hooked up (why won't it start? Oh, fuel lines are backward, Duh!) and finally took it for a drive.

Everything looks to be working good. Except that I needed to re-bleed the brakes again. The shift up light comes on at the strangest times though. When is it supposed to come on in the FC?

My horn relay doesn't seem to be working and the flash to pass function (probably my strange idea of wiring caused this) is a bit disconcerting when it bounces my headlight doors up every time I accidently bump the turn signal stalk. But, I've got to have something to do I guess.

Overall I'm pretty happy with how it turned out so far. Quite a bit of power, it'll break the 13s loose into second pretty easily (Really guys, I'm trying to take it easy for the first couple hundred miles to break it back in.) . It's not a monster show machine like some I've seen on here, but that wasn't what I was trying for.

Here's some pics as it sits now.

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6222/7...3e88e412_c.jpg
Build17 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7258/7...80a8d332_c.jpg
Build18 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6049/6...05e21aef_c.jpg
Build19 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7129/7...f70a92a1_c.jpg
Build20 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

last one.
 

As usual more problems keep cropping up.

My radiator is leaking around the plastic tanks. It looks like the next project will be to pull the radiator back out and replace it with a Koyo aluminum unit.

I'm currently working on the FC front subframe. So far, all I've got done is to depower the power steering rack according to TitaniumTT's post and start cleaning.

I'm going to see if I can swap in the LSD from the 87 differential and try to swap over to the big axles or possibly try to locate a complete SE rear axle and get new shafts with the 5X4.5 bolt pattern. I'm not sure exactly what's involved in this yet. I'll then fabricate and weld on some mounts to accept the 87 rear discs. More cutting, grinding, welding, Oh well..

I'll post more as I get to it, hopefully I didn't bore anyone to tears. It's been a low budget effort (except for the exhaust, which cost way too much in my estimation, about half of the build cost, stainless steel mufflers are EXPENSIVE).

I've got just under 4000 dollars into the total project so far (including purchasing the car). It's more than the car's really worth, but you can spend a lot more trying to keep yourself amused. I'm learning a lot in the process and just having fun. It'll be even more fun when I can get to some of the events and meet some of you in person. Thanks for all the help guys.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...526e4aaf_c.jpg
Build21 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr]

She looks great! I like what you've done with the exhaust and she looks very unassuming from the outside, great job man.

Thanks. I'm trying to keep it simple. :smilielol5: At least the outside and interior appearance anyhow.

Wow, incredible work! I'd swap my FC setup over to an SA/FB in a heartbeat if I had the opportunity.

How was depowering the steering rack? I need to do this myself but with most of the pictures missing from TTT's thread I'm a little nervous to tackle it. Did you TIG up the "quill" like he did as well?

Thank you. I followed along TTTs post and it was pretty straightforward. The biggest problem I had was with the caps being corroded on TIGHT, and getting the stake to come loose on the pinion plug. I think Godzilla went to Hiroshima and was working on RX7s the day they staked that plug in. I used my MIG to weld the quill up like TTT did. I did cut off the inlets and weld up the holes in the body, but I used bolts/pinch nuts and flat nylon washers to seal the holes in the aluminum housing.

I've got the FC front subframe pulled apart. Dirty and nasty, starting cleanup. The front rack is done, nothing else. I did put the extra front and rear rotors in the pic that I got from BrettLinton7. I need to take a lot of the parts down to be sandblasted (surface rust).

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7218/7...3d46d187_c.jpg
Build22 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

This is a really, really great build. :) Looks to be well worth all the effort in the end. hell it looks it now. I really like all the electronics swapping you've done, too.

Thanks beefhole. It's one of those projects that kind of got away from me. I was going to only put in the 13B and run a carburetor, but I had all the EFI stuff and figured Why Not?

I needed some experience with stuff outside of the stone age anyway. It got a lot more involved than I thought at first. I tried to get a complete stock FC setup in there so everything matches. This gives me a good baseline for future improvements (I hope).

Also, using as many stock parts as possible, also makes finding parts a lot easier when (not if) something breaks. I plan to drive this a lot and make some long road trips. I only used custom parts when I absolutely had to.

The known baseline is necessary, as I've found that trying to make too many changes at once will really screw the pooch on figuring out what you did wrong.

Wow, I didn't realize how much modification you were doing when we spoke. The car looks great, I love how you have the radiator/shroud and everything from the FC swapped over. Looks like the car came that way :) Those gauges look pretty good, too. Congrats on finishing it!

Thank you for the kind words.

Finished? Well, it's more like a starting point, but at least it's running again. I want to start upgrading all of the supporting hardware, i.e. drivetrain, suspension, chassis, etc., as money allows.

When everything else is done I'd like to upgrade to a MoTec ECU, just to make TTT happy and start playing with mapping.

At that point I can start playing with the engine. I want to avoid any more long downtimes on this project if I can, the car's just too much fun to drive to let it sit again.

:banghead: Dang. Just found out the FC Brake master cylinder is going too. I also need to put in a couple more exhaust supports at the mufflers as they're moving a little too much. Always have a few bugs to work out after mods it seems.

killing bugs
 

Been trying to figure out my headlight motor problem. They go up and down on their own now and then. Sometimes the passenger side, sometimes the drivers, sometimes both. Even more annoying is when both the up and down circuits are powered and they keep cycling up and down continuously going down the road. Just call me Winky.:icon_no2: I think the problem is in my combination switch. It fell apart on me when I was trying to trace wires. I thought I had it back together right, but it has been giving me problems with a few different bugs.

I did get the extra muffler mounts welded in. The muffler shop said I didn't need them, but too much vibration in that tight of a space. The mufflers need to be supported on both ends.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7200/7...6f2842f7_m.jpg
Build23. by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Still working on the front subframe. Finally got the rusted together struts apart. I had to run a heavy bead with the MIG on the old strut shaft to get something to hold them while I fought the top bolt off (they just kept spinning). I think it needed new struts anyway.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7193/7...5f623b30_m.jpg
Build24 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

The good is that I have a new brake master cylinder on the way from MazdaTrix, inside door latch cups from Atkins, and a used combination switch from Frodogray on Ebay. We'll see if these help.

It looks like the guys in KC, will?, be having a get together on the 15th and I want to make it over there for that. It should be a good shakedown cruise.

Looking good man. Big project, but the results are excellent.

Oh, and PS- I have a '79 A/C compressor, perfect working order with 134A fittings already on it.

Just putting that out there...

Thanks. It wasn't meant to be a big project. Like the title says.. I may be giving you a call about that compressor in a month or two. I was going to stay with the R-12 but R-134a might work. I haven't really researched it yet, too much other stuff to do first. It'll probably become a much higher priority here pretty soon though.

Oops
 

I found the brake problem. The rear wheel cylinders were shot, that'll happen when the car sits 10-20 years. Tried to make a run to Kansas City to deliver some parts and make a meet the KC guys were having. Burned up a relay about 100 miles out, bypassed it and it was fine. Again, my overly complicated wiring scheme bites me in the a@@. Then about 150 miles out the car starts to sputter and died on the side of the interstate. Do a bunch of checks, no fuel to the filter. I assume the fuel pump went as the fuel gauge was above empty and called some local friends to come help. Put gas in it and it fired right up. :blush5: I evidently bumped the needle putting in the panel and didn't notice it. Needless to say I didn't make KC in time for the meet. Oh well, this is why I was making the run in the first place. Need to make sure all the problems are worked out before I get too far away.

:biggthumpup: Wow! I gotta say...GREAT build up and good job!

Quick update. About 1500 miles on it it and no more problems yet other than oil lines leaking at the cooler. I didn't put new crush washers in when I took them loose. I found out why it's a good idea. Running a little rough, need to pull the injectors, send them off and have them cleaned. Going to make the Ozarks run with 417Rotary club on 7 July if I have to tow it there this time.

OK, been a while on updates as there wasn't a whole lot to report. Made the Ozarks run, only problem was a blown front tire. Have a little over 4000 miles on it with no significant problems. About done working the extra job for the year, bought axles, rear end and assorted parts to do the five lug/LSD swap with the the big bearing rear end and rear suspension revisions, as well as desperately needed bigger brakes. More updates and pics soon I hope.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8069/8...38220268_n.jpg
SE diff by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Picked up an 85 GSL SE rear diff. Had a little problem with the first diff I picked up. It was out of an 85 gsl. It would have worked fine, but found that someone had swapped an 83 gsl rear into it at sometime so the rear did not have the big bearings. Took it back to Kyle at Rotary Doctor in Neosho, Mo. and he gave me the GSL SE rear in it's place. Good guy, this one had us both scratching our heads for a while, shit happens. Trial fitting bigger rear discs while I'm waiting on parts to arrive. Want to swap brakes over from the 95 SVT Cobra suspension I have. Rear 11.5" discs won't be too bad, although they look to be only marginally better then the FC rears (Cobra on left, FC on right), but the front 13" discs will take a little thinking on. We'll see. :squint:

playing with my rear
 

Modifying Spring mounts to accept the Mustang springs. I know, I'm insane. ;)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8224/8...ef4cdf46_m.jpg
axle1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8075/8...cef1a973_m.jpg
axle2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8363/8...7109495e_m.jpg
axle&spring by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

The beauty of the Mustang springs is that they come in the spring rates I was shooting for anyway. Oh! and I already have them, broke MoFos unite! :001_302:

For those still interested and in keeping with my penchant for doing things the hard way. (Don't try this at home kids, I'm a Prof-*er*-masochist). Getting the spring buckets and adjusters in car. Had to raise the spring mounting point ala FC & FD. Final placement on the spring perch is about 4 inches higher than original. Need to be able to lower it without going to ridiculously stiff springs. Used adjusters so I can alter ride height and weight jack for suspension tuning. Guess what? 5" diameter springs don't quite fit between the frame rail and wheel opening, such a surprise :uhh:. Now know why Mazda used those oddball diameter springs. Had to notch the frame rails as I didn't want to take up any valuable tire space in the wheel wells.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8223/8...930382e7_m.jpg
Spring opening by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8208/8...abf6bb89_m.jpg
spring opening 4 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8501/8...6b8c90e7_m.jpg
spring opening 2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8062/8...686ba03e_m.jpg
spring perch w_adjuster by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8215/8...daf2b55b_m.jpg
spring on perch - new by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Just have to get it closed up and the final welds done, then onto the other side. :07: Back to work...

:party:

A project that got otu of hand? Say it isn't so!!!!! That NEVER happens....

Don't you guys have winters? That's when I try to keep all my playing to..... wintertime when I can't/don't want to drive the cars anyway.... Gotta finish my Jeeps and get the 8 off the rd in the next week or so

Shakedowns! Gotta love 'em.... the wierdest shit pops up on them...

Yeah.... it's know as 17" rims :lol:

That's really fucking cool and impressive at the same time.... I approve of that way of doing things

Always it seems. :blush5:

We have winters here, but the snow seldom sticks around for very long. Get more time on the road with the 7 than I would up north. It is cold as SH** out in the shop trying to get work done though.

Yeah, I know, but it's hard to find a short enough tire in 17" to allow suspension articulation up front that is still wide enough to do any good. I'll find a work around though. :suspect:

I'll probably end up with 215/40's, have to see when I get the suspension fitted.

Thanks Brian. Quite a bit more to go on rear suspension, different lowers, 3 link, fit and plumb brakes etc. Will be ready for DGRR if I have to weld the axle to the frame though. :biggrinjester:

addendum: Hopefully I'll have a chance of keeping your FC from hell within sight on the dragon, since my lack of power is not as much of a handicap there.

After looking at Phil's thread this is almost shameful, but it's what I've got.

Well life's been throwing me a few curves lately, but still making progress. I got my set of wheels I plan on using and did a trial fit.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8495/8...38871140_n.jpg
SSRwheels by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Rears are 275/40R17, yes I'm going with 17s. Not enough room in the wheel wells (width) and my measurement was a little off for lowering. Again, such a surprise. Have to extend the rear buckets upward another 2-3 inches and un-spotweld my wheel wells moving them in about 1.5 - 2 inches. Such fun. Luckily I waited on final welding until the trial fit, so not as big of a problem as it could have been. Rear brake adapter plates made and fitted, good clearance all around with the SSRs. Also changing over to a 3 link setup in the rear to eliminate those pesky upper control arms, snap oversteer is such a drag, and free up the room for MOAR TIRE. Will update when I get the rear suspension buttoned up. :suspect:

275s on 17s with an NA 13B?

So we're going to have 2gslse's FB at DGRR fail to get out of the parking lot due to the inability of 205s to control his monster causing blinding tire smoke and then you... you sir are going to stall as the level of friction from those meats far exceed the torque produced on that NA 13B :)


Ok, all jokiing aside, looks good. Should be a pretty sweet year to be an SA/FB fan at DGRR if all these cars make it. Only 3 months left, get cracking!

:rofl: Well it looks like the only way to keep up with Brian is to outbrake him, so we need more tire and brake. The chassis was only designed for 100hp so it has a few shortcomings to be addressed before I pull a 2gslse. :)

A little more work done. As usual things are getting more complicated than I at first envisioned. :lol: Fitted the tires and wasn't happy with the inside clearance. Tried spacers, but I wanted the tires tucked in more, sooo, mini-tub time.

I got the third link in so I could do away with the upper control arms.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8365/8...0c841865_n.jpg
third link1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8046/8...fcb9076b_n.jpg
third link2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Had to cut my fancy dancy spring buckets (they needed to be higher anyway, measurements never come out right). Removed the wheel well.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8352/8...c64022b9_n.jpg
open wheelwell by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

Got the inner rear wheel well plate fabbed and fitted, should give me plenty of clearance for off camber articulation.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8194/8...5b9cf215_n.jpg
Inside clearance by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

The limiting factor now is going to be the spring, but for now I have plenty of space there. Also going to have to move the shock mounting point. No big deal, now where have I heard that before? :o Wheels look good on there though.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8333/8...c0bfa1a2_n.jpg
outside clearance1 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8220/8...e887b862_n.jpg
wheel2 by GySgtFrank, on Flickr

The things I won't get myself into. :)