Spark plugs
 

As per TED's request.

What spark plugs do you use? are you not experienced and still go of backwards Mazda OEM recommendations for your engine or have you used something else with great results?

Post and or argue away! open shit fight allowed :gnorsi:

I do not use garbage Mazda oem recommendations, reasons are numerous but needless to say better results in every criteria can be achieved with different spark plug specifications.

My favorites are

Ghetto spec > NGK B*EGV
Mild ghetto spec > NGK B*EGP
Don Mega Spec > NGK R7420 *

* denotes various heat ranges.

I also like using Nippon Denso, need to go through my plethora of spark plug boxes to get you the exact number (maybe I will hide it lol since not many people know about them on the interwebz of shit lol), but its a semi bespoke racing plug which is CNC machined for rotaries, works very well, equiv to the R7420 range in NGK.

http://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-...1016900/page3/

LO fucking L! at the tards in this ^ linked thread!

Thanks for the info. I'm not making enough power to need the high end plugs :), but it's good to know your reasoning behind the use of certain plugs.

R7420 10.5L 11T for me

So even when running fairly original power, you'd recommend not going with the BUR7EQP and 9 pairing? Just bought new Magnecor plug wires and two sets of those plugs ( :( ?) without really getting into what the differences between the different plugs are at all, planning to eventually get an HKS ignition amplifier as well. Also got a Power FC, running slightly rich.

Going for reliability more so than power. Just want what's the healthiest for my baby :) Got any recommendations, Rice? Just bought my FD now in January, long term plans for it are getting a nice V-mount setup, water/meth injection, ignition amp, blocking out the OMP + going for premixing.

For your set up > R7420 in 10 heat range once you get the HKS DLI.
Reliable plug I have many hundreds in service, never ever had a failure of a spark plug. And in every case the plugs work better in every measure you care to apply.
I have proven these to be the best plug.
E-Bay them there are plenty for sale.

R6725-10.5/11?

^ These are over 30+ years old.

Platinum Platinum combo out of an old Racing Beat catalog lol......... the later R7420 Iridium center option is far superior, much longer lasting and better performing.

It is an acceptable plug, but just not as good as the one I have been using for the last 10 years.

So I suppose four of the R7420-9's would be the best choice for a moderately powered N/A engine (200+ whp @ 9000+ RPM)? I stumbled across these a while back but I always assumed they were race-only plugs (i.e. warm up on stock plugs and swap 'em in).

Awesome, thanks! :hurray:
No idea if it makes a difference, but will these work equally well in cold outdoor temperatures? I noticed you live in Australia, I live in Norway.. :)
And they won't require a much longer warmup will they? There might be times I need to drive it short distances.

I live in Alpine regions of Australia where it is common to be -10 deg C.
The 10 and 11 heat range plugs work totally fine in those conditions, you just need a properly calibrated engine map that is set to work in all operating conditions.

With a proper CDI ignition system (leave inductive for the chumps of the world!) there is never any need to worry about the garbage of a warm up then race plug, that is plain idiotic.

Sounds good!

Sent you PM earlier btw, not sure if you saw that. Was very OT so figured it was better to send it privately :D

Its not about power level. Real advantages of these high end plugs are far better durability and lower voltage requirements for given air gap compared to plugs with more conventional and bigger diameter electrodes.

Less energy you dissipate to create spark, more you have available to create plasma channel - heat which initiates flame front. Fine electrode plugs are also more consistent in sparking which lowers cycle to cycle variation which in turn means more power and better fuel economy.

What about using the R7420's with water/meth? From my understanding there is still platinum in those plugs, and doesn't that react with methanol causing pre-ignition? Any suggestions for someone running water/meth injection?

That is internet webs bullshit certified there 100% (probably posted by HC or BDC lol

Last time I looked I am the water/meth expert, been running that stuff longer than anyone in a car that works, not just internet posts :), all you need to do is read my thread I have on Aquamist and here.....

The suggestion is as it is

R7420 (for any thing and everything)

p.s. IF!!! platinum spark plugs did what some cock smokers on the internet suggest EVERY SINGLE METHANOL FUELED ROTARY would detonate and blow up with uncontrollable pre ignition leading to detonation !!!!!!! FACTS are no such thing happens in 100 % fueled meth cars :ack2: the only time it happens is if you get the heat range totally WRONG and the element cannot transfer away enough heat to the body of the spark plug, only then will it act as a glow plug! The token amount of platinum by its own does not act as a catalyst unless it is a very fine wire and suspended in free air just like a true glow plug............. Terse reply but I am just totally sick and tired of reading regurgitated shit from people who have no idea of this at all, especially when it is directly contradicted every day at drag tracks across the world where people are running full meth and full platinum plugs, it simply does not get any simpler than that.

No problem at all is the nice reply, read my thread, see the performance level, see the durability. WM50 (same thing everyone now is copying on gayclub) pioneer all on R7420 plugs :)

If you only gave nice replies, we would have to conclude that an impostor had stolen your ID. :lol:

I didn't know for certain, that's why I asked. :) All I've heard are people spouting that this is how the glow plugs on a RC car work with the nitromethane fuel, they're platinum and it reacts with the fuel causing it to go off. It sounded good to me, I have no direct experience with it. Anything I've ever run meth or water/meth on has been running copper plugs. Good to know that I can run iridiums with platinum tipped ground electrodes. :icon_tup:

Another question for you. I've toyed with the B9EGV plugs in the past in my halfie FD. I did notice an instant increase in idle quality and throttle response, but I found that after some hard driving the ground electrode would break off on some of the plugs. It didn't matter if I was running race gas or meth with 91 octane. I shied away from those plugs because of that. Perhaps I was running too hot of a plug? Any suggestions there?

B*EGP is the one you want to use if you want to stay with the motorbike plug, its just the same except the it has a platinum ground pressed into the alloy plug body just like the expensive rotary only plugs. And there is an increase in quality as you noted due to non resistor amoung other hard differences like smaller centre (and in the EGP its platinum center and ground) its a high quality plug.

For rotaries I run these in B95EGP onwards (colder) depending on application.
If I get time I will line up all of these that have run long term in turbo rotaries and show what they look like.
For the B*EGV I never lost any ground ends like you have but always ran them in 10 and 11 heat ranges only.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-NGK-B10E...89c937&vxp=mtr
V cheap for full race platinum plug

Can the rt plugs be run on stock ignition or only with a amp

It's just guys voicing there options, like what is written on all these forum. Just don't understand the name calling.

Had been running R6725-9/10 since 2005 (went single turbo) until about 2010-2011 when I switch to the newer R7420-9/10. Why, they just run so much better/smoother than B9/10EGVs.

People will spend big money for power mods then go cheap on plugs, why?

Been running the 2396 plugs for a long time now. Only recently tried the V-power plugs. Around 5 years ago I had a slight misfire at the top of 4th gear. using the 2396 plugs. Say it was 85% tuned. Ran 10.5 at 139. Guys in the pits got me to try the high dollar plugs. Did and the car ran 10.5 at 140 but with no misfire. Then I noticed the difference in gap between the 2396 plugs and the high dollar plug. Re-gaped the 2396 plugs and made another pass. 10.5 at 140.

the high dollar plugs do have there place but I'm not there yet. So far the 2396's have taken me to 145 mph in a 2600+lbs car with out spending lots of money on the ignition system.