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im back in an FC!!
:hurray:
i ended up junking my last FC becuase of rust damage and multiple rust holes in the body causing fumes to be sucked in the cabin, and it was basically a piece of crap. I then found a good deal on an FD, built it up, but never really liked it that much. Started looking for another FC and a friend hooked me up with this 1986 FC without engine or ems. it has manual rack, manual windows, LSD http://i39.tinypic.com/1zbglqs.jpg i still have all the parts from my last fc.. tein's, S4 TII block, 60-1 turbo, sideskirts, S5 bumper, etc.. im going to swap all those on and use it for drifting and track days. and repaint it white. im going to try to do it on a factory ECU too.. AFM tuning |
Looks Fun.!
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i tore out the interior last weekend, smelled like dog piss and i found a couple rats nests in the process
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1372976247 here she sits with shocks and brakes removed.. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1372976247 out with the old, in with the new. TII brakes F+R, TII slotted rotors, Tein Flex coilovers http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1372976247 I went through my spare engine parts and pieced together a stock port S4 TII block.. rebuild parts are on order, going with RA apex seals http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1372976247 |
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You could have had an SA!
Any chance you'll have it ready for B3R? You can always get parts from your brothers car! LOL! |
there's just something about looking at a bunch of new parts. :)
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i htink it should be ready for b3r
the block is mostly built, just a stockport s4 TII block made with spare parts. instead of oem coolant seals, i used .093" square viton cord just to see if they work out :cheers2: also went with turblown's stud kit http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...chmentid=13602 http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...chmentid=13603 |
How was installing the turblown stud kit? Pretty simple to just swap em out for the tension bolts and call it a day?
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I need another FC in my life. Been heavily considering it for a track car.
whats the plan for this one? |
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i was going to assemble the front cover stuff yesterday, but i used a GSL-SE e-shaft and cant find the front bolt for it, ended up ordering one from mazdatrix, so will have to wait also, i found a haltech e6k.. so new plan is to try to run two ID2000 injectors and block off the secondaries. hopefully i can get it to idle and cruise on the 2000's and not have to deal with staging problems. the fuel system will be pretty simple with just a single rail, i will probably run an a1000 regulator, and a walbro 400. im going to try to keep the factory resistor relay for knocking down the voltage at low loads. Also going to run FC coils with bosch ignitor |
so you have the "im too tall for Rx-7s, but I like them too much to worry about "safey"" thing i do.
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haha exactly
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wewt!! keep the progress pix flowing. I love watching projects come together :D :D
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pic of the stud kit, and a test fit of the ID2000's
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...chmentid=13641 still waiting on parts. i may do the harness this weekend |
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actually held up right now with teh stud kit.. the studs are too long and contact the flywheel. i think turblown is looking into why, since they claim the studs will work with oem flywheel
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1376050042 im tired of waiting on this engine, i may just throw the factory bolts in and try to get a refund from elliot. really dont feel like cutting them down |
DOH! You used 12A housings by mistake! j/k
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elliot said they have never seen this problem before, im the first! just my luck
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:)
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so ive made some progress. i ended up using factory FD rods since turblowns dont fit and didnt feel like cutting them down. engine is in, and just running a 60-1 hybrid S5 turbo for now. The brakes, exhaust, engine harness, haltech, and fuel system are installed. I ditched the haltech harness relays and used the factory stuff for a clean install. I got it started and idling reasonably well on the ID2000's.. injector PW is about 1.1ms at idle
Also started on the v-mount. i cut out a bunch of crap and welded in a new crossbeam, to which the top of the radiator mounts. the bottom of the radiator is supported on the sides by two tabs welded onto the frame rails http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1381767391 http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1381767409 http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1381767421 i havent decided where to mount the oil cooler. it will either be sandwiched by the radiator and intercooler (c-mount? lol), or just mount it in front of radiator in the middle of the "V" |
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finished most of the v-mount.. just have to seal it up with sheetmetal and do the piping
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1382899770 http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1382899770 http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1382899770 and got the bumper and corksport lip test-fitted.. looks sweet! http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1382899770 |
Makes me miss having my 88. Awesome build
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i just ordered the turbo setup, going to use the compressor and chra from my old 60-1/p-trim hybrid, but on a 5-bolt ford-style T3 turbine housing with 30mm internal wastegate. Im going to give this "ultimate internal wastegate" a try from atp turbo http://www.atpturbo.com/root/releases/release103105.htm
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/gr...-023_1_450.jpg i have dual external wastegates on the FD and they are a pain in the ass for multiple reasons. I believe a well designed internal wastegate can outperform an external. the fact that no factory cars come with an external wastegate should tell you something. the only downside is it wont be truly divided. but i can make the manifold with super short, small runners, and keep them divided up to the flange at least. low volume should help with spoolup |
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i received the new turbine housing, the wg port is only about 25mm, but it looks like it could be ported out to a least 30mm. the flapper opens a lot wider than factory, im just going to run it and see if it creeps as is. i also need to order a p-trim wheel. test fit with factory wheel in pic
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...chmentid=14100 so today i started building the turbo manifold. i wanted to have the flange parallel to the engine for the most direct flow, but i had to clock it a little so that the wg actuator clears the oil drain. i cant mount it too close to the engine, so that a T04S cover will fit. im also using 1.39" ID tubing with a T3 flange. tack'd up for a test fit.. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...chmentid=14101 http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...chmentid=14102 http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...chmentid=14103 now just need to make the piping |
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homebrew manifold complete
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...chmentid=14120 http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...chmentid=14119 |
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progress! i got her running last weekend, had some trouble vacuum leaks after resurfacing my intake manifolds with a warped belt sander, but all is well now. pretty much everything on this car is spare parts, custom built, or stuff i had just laying around
pics.. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1404777761 http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1404779862 http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1404777791 next on the list: install the pass seat install hood pins fix leaky front brake caliper create interior switch panel duct the v-mount |
Whoo!
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hmm looks like im going to have to paint and put an interior in this thing. hagerty wont insure as is lol
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Is this going to be a resurrected version of you old 10AE FC then?
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I told him to paint it white, continue the saga.
That would be like 4 or 5 white FCs now? Same parts different chassis. |
Odds are he will eventually find a good one :D Although FCs aren't near as cool as 1st gens.
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