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distributer problem maby?
alright so i fixed the carb base plate and then discovered i had 4 fouled spark plugs so i replaced them. car cranked right up and idled but idle was high let the car run for 5 to 10 minutes then had someone come over that was going to help with my adjustments on the carb. tried to crank it back up and discovered i had no spark comeing off my coils so im not sure if it could be wiring or my distributer... havent been able to get it cranked again but ive probally fouled the plugs again. i had replaced the coils with sum off a older truck and im recently working on swapping those out with factory coils. theres a brand new cap and rotor so those are only things i can think of. any experience on these?
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not trailing OR leading? is there power to the ignitors? are the coils hooked up right? did you remember to put the rotor back in with the cap (i forgot once). Is the timing right?
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guy before me replaced the cap and rotor. and timing sounded good when i had the car cranked for that 10 minutes. he did have direct power running to the coils and i changed that. but i dont understand why it would crank, run, and idle but i turned it off and let it sit for a few minutes then no spark on leading or trailing coil.
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Quote:
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See if the coils are getting power and if they are grounded .
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fuses where good. had to replace those fusible link once but that caused no power at all? is there one other than whats on the driverside strut tower? they are getting power ill have to check on the grounding cause i dont remember changing that and last i remember looking they where grounded to each other?
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so you have 12v at the coils confirmed? You also have voltage at the ignitors confirmed?
have you tried another dizzy? multimeter all the things! |
The thing is going to be flooded as all hell too. Deflood before trying again.
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How did you determine that your getting no spark at the coils after this shutdown?
Normally things don't mysteriously fail one minute (or 10 in this case) later. Note also to never, ever, shutdown a rotary after starting cold until it warms up. Otherwise you will be seriously flooded. If you have a strong ignition and battery you can restart a flooded rotary after about 4 cranks, otherwise deflood by removing plugs, cleaning, drying and crank with out plugs to clear out the chambers. Also note that when the plugs are flooded its like a short to ground for the spark so there won't be any indication of spark. |
well we pulled the wires coming off the ign coils and had my friend turn the key. no spark at all when i tried to arc it. and it did warm up idleing at what sounded like 4k for 10 minutes with reving and all. motor was certainly to hot to touch with my hand. weather permiting im gonna hook one of those multimeters to everything still waiting on my other stock ign coil to come in so limited on what all i can do at this moment.
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http://i40.tinypic.com/2cn8m4i.jpg
heres the plugs when i took them out and sprayed sum starter fluid and cleaned them up. http://i43.tinypic.com/24msvhc.jpg and heres setup on the ignition coils grounds are running into the wiring harness somewhere. |
umm do you have the + on one coil going to the negative on another?
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http://i40.tinypic.com/2hgyb2v.jpg
heres better picture actually its running into wiring harness the red wire is what i had to do cause the dude before me soddered the two harness wires together so i had to cut and add sum wire to make it work |
well thats an issue. the B/W is 12v power which goes to the + of the coils.
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Yes 1 - 2 +
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theres a good possibility i put those on the wrong side. those smaller plugin wires go negative side correct? it wasnt like that before in sum older pictures i got with other coils so thats just what i did today getting things hooked back up. there any other possibilities?
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the yellow, small wires go to the negative. the black/white wires (large gauge) connect to the + side.
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also make sure you have the right coil for the right yellow wire, one is trailing and one is leading (and another off the trailing to the tach)
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thats weird also cause my tachometer doesnt work either. possibly try swapping those plugins on the neg side and see if that makes any difference?
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yes. reconnect them all in the correct fashion.
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http://i44.tinypic.com/jpeopd.jpg
alright did little work today on the coils had the car fire off twice today but now to much fuel again... thinking possibly im going to have to get the carb rebuilt more than likely. jets arent squirting but dribbling out, and that little bowl is filling up with fuel. wasnt doing all this before but new situation. |
try adjusting the floats first and look at your acelerator pump for fuel leaks. it was my original issue, i only rebuilt because of a stuck shut secondary flap on the carb and a leaky glass seal. lso if you rebuild that nikki stormberg be careful of the rats nest, that thing breaks easy and you need to remove it to get to the carb bolts. or you can take it via removing the intake manifold. That will also open up some stuff you may consider maintinencing. two o rings that the antifreeze runs through they tend to deteriorate and the other gasket gets pretty bad. when i fixed mine i found no orings and i was sucking coolant into the engine, which explained destroying spark plugs. just some advice from a fairly new owner of an 83 rx-7 12a, i'm assuming you have the same motor judgig the pics. have fun.
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^^^ this.
unfortunately, i have Weber IDA experience and no nikki experience. |
ive torn out the ratsnest lol couldnt handle all that vacuum stuff goin on and was going to have to replace all that rubber as well as some of the metal in it due to rust...(car lived on the beach for a bit) so only thing thats being run is brake booster and distributer. only two main things i been told it needs. and like i said wasnt having this issue with the carb before but that base plate appears to still be causing sum problems and i will probally have to find another. but carb im using actually came off a 83' but mines a 1.1 12a i actually found a guy around my town here that owns 6 rx7s from what im told and im going to be giving him a call here shortly and see what he thinks. and ive already taken all that intake stuff off when i replaced the exhaust header with a racing beat one and got rid of that ole box lookn thing that was smoknlol
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