FC: Wheel Fitment Thread
 

Thanks to Roen for supplying me with this easy-to-read explanation on wheel offsets.:001_005:

First you need to figure out what you have and what you need.

FC3S Bolt Pattern
4-lug and 5-lug are the same: 114.3

When you look for a wheel you base it on your needs:
114.3 x 4 or 114.3 x 5 - Simple

Once you have the right lug pattern you move on to the offset.

This is by far the simplest, most easy-to-read explanation I've received in a while and it must be shared with those who will eventually need new wheels.

I like how the baseline starts on an 8" rims since most will want to upgrade to a wider wheel (no point in buying new wheels that will not perform better than stock).

That's pretty much it. I don't know what else you'll need and I'm not a guru on this so if you have any questions or additions just post them.

Uh...
NO.

Bigger (larger #) the offset, the further in the wheel face is pushed out and the wheel rim (edge) sinks into the wheel well.

"Offset" is defined as the measurement in millimeters the hub mount surface / back of the wheel face is OFFSET from centerline.
Negative offset implies the wheel face is pushed in, while the wheel rim (edge) is pushed out.

A +40 offset wheel with a 15mm space is effective the same as a wheel with a +25(mm) offset.


-Ted

Yup

It an "effective" +25mm offset, no matter how you argue it.

A +40mm offset wheel + 15mm spacer is effectively a +25mm offset wheel with no spacer.
Both will have the same clearance dimensions from the rim edges inside and outside. (when rim widths are kept the same).
I don't a flying fuck about the "chunk of aluminum behind it".


You're talking about different face profiles and (effectively) brake caliper clearances.
I don't give a flying fuck about those.
We're debating about wheel dimensions, offsets, and clearances.


I don't give a flying fuck how the wheels looks like.
You wanna argue about how a wheel looks, go stick your nose into the Drifting subsection.
Again, I REPEAT MYSELF: We're debating about wheel dimensions, offsets, and clearances.


You're right.
That's the straight math.
It also shows you have no idea what rim dimensions and offset mean.
Stick with math - leave the wheel offsets to the people who do understand it.


Again, you have no idea what you are talking about.
Leave the discussion to people who know what they are talking about.
You, obviously, don't know what you are talking about.


Again, you are just showing you have no idea what you are talking about.


No, you have a problem with reading comprehension.
I never agreed with any of your balony falsehoods in the first place.

You want to argue how wheels looks?
Go post your shit in the Drifting section.
This thread has NOTHING to do with how a wheel looks.

I don't diss people cause they like flat-faced rims - it's their preference.
You're a cause you're insulting the people who do like those kinda wheels.
People like you make me shame I'm connected with the rotary engine...


No.
I agree that you:
1) have a reading comprehension problem
2) have a problem expressing yourself in words
3) have no clue what "offset" means
4) a prejudice jackass insulting people cause it doesn't agree with your "sense of style" (puke)


-Ted

maybe this will explain it better:

http://www.1010tires.com/wheeloffsetcalculator.asp

the reason we care about offset is to get the wheel to fit without sticking out past the fender (outer edge of wheel) or rubbing the suspension (inner edge of wheel)

offset is not used to change the look of the wheel itself, that is manufacterer's job. if you dont like the look of the lip on the wheel, get a different wheel

I couldn't have said anything better than Ted. :icon_tup:

Well this was amusing to follow!

It certainly was, so much that it sparked a tread in the Admin section :rofl:

and if there was ever a doubt, Ted is right, Rotary Related is wrong. This is not up for debate

It's usually best not to make a comment if you are unsure of what you are talking about. No reason to make yourself look stupid & provide incorrect info.

Indeed, infact, we might start handing out warnings/bans for vulgar displays of stupidity

Why is this stickied? The only informative part is the OP, everything after is strictly ignorance, and obviously a miscommunication.

Rotordad is incorrect. If everyone had been talking about negative offset rather than positive he would have been correct. I'm giving him the benefit of doubt and assuming his logic was simply confused, and he's not a total tard. If spacers were sold as negative sizes maybe it wouldn't be so confusing.

IE: -10 offset used with a 10mm spacer would put you at a -20mm offset (neg 20mm offset that is). 10+10=20 ;)

Ted seems to be tired of ignorance, and is getting a bit grumpy. I believe he should go surfing and get recentered. :)

Grumpy or not, I think Ted's initial post to this thread (#3) with the attached wheel offset illustration, was the most useful nugget of information in this entire thread. A picture is often worth 1000's of words, and in this case, the picture clearly explains the concept of wheel offset so well that any dunderhead can understand it. I hope the mods don't decide to edit that one out of this thread.

I'm sorry, have either one of you been issued anything?
And I'm from the north, there's no good ole' boy shit going on here.
I have banned people for language and attacks, infact, seems like you're attacking an admin in your post. I'd be careful if I were you. I'd rather publically warn people as I have in the past, rather than ban them. It seems to work more effectively and it keeps more people on the forum and active. How can you go wrong? That doesn't mean that I'll hesitate if someone steps over the line after being warned. Consider yourself warned for a few different things.

How exactly am I incorrect? You even stated that he might have been confused right? Okay well that says to me he was incorrect, if he was confused asking a question or listening to someone with the right idea would be a good thing.

thats only really true for multi piece wheels that use the same face with a different barrel. 18x9.5 +38 and +15 rpf1's, for example, look identical from the outside. obviuously some wheels are shaped differently, but some arent.
in fact if brake clearance is an issue, its easier to fit wheels WITH a spacer. run a higher offset wheel with spokes designed for opem brakes, then space it out to clear big brakes. low offest deepdish whateverthehells are much harder to fit over BBK's.


thats a different argument. "how many threads should i have engaged?"
well its really not much of an argument. a fastener needs 1/2 of its diameter engaged to be equal in radial and axial sheer strength. for a 12x1.5 threaded stud, that equals 4 turns. stick with 5 to play it safe.

need more thread engagement? these are a hell of a lot cheaper then custom built wheels:
http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/100-77...oductId=747558

the location of the center of the tire (scrub) is all that really matters in bearing load, as well as the load itself of course. whether it be a +10 wheel, or a +40 wheel with 30mm spacer, the bearing doesnt know the difference.

you think wheel weight has any affect on your bearings? they're designed to support cornering forces of an entire car... maybe your wheels weigh 1000lbs? i guess thats possible with multipiece steel wheels lol

just about every time attack car runs slipon spacers, fyi (since most of them run 1-piece wheels with OTS offsets)

Slow down and re-read.

Good stuff here :) lol

(Looks like some replies got edited here...)

Please take a look at the Title / Subject again.

This really has NOTHING to do with bearing load / scrub.

If you want to argue those points, START A NEW THREAD.

All you're going to do is confuse people who are just looking for FC FITMENT WHEEL INFORMATION.

As a side note, HIGH offset wheels have been proven to perform better than low offset wheels in terms of suspension (design).
This is the reason Mazda went with the high offset on the FD (8.0", +50) and why Honda went with the S2K (F 6.5", +55 / R 7.5", +65).
Suspension engineers want to stuff the scrub (center) tucked as far inside as possible for better suspension geometry.
Another strike against low-offset wheels...


-Ted

why'd you delete his replies? booo i like arguing :(

anywho, i dont think offset itself means much of anything really. all sorts of things like hub design, brake rotor thickeness, etc can dictate the necessary offset. but yah, wishbone cars can run much higher offset wheels for really good scrub + low KIA. pick one or the other with struts..

Becuase we're taking a a more stringent stance on the spread of mis-information. This is a sticky and it should really only contain pertanient and CORRECT information. I also deleted all of the ramblings about wheel bearings.

Your reading comprehension is obviously lacking.

Momma always said, "If everyone in the room thinks that you are ignorant, do not open your mouth and remove all doubt."

Pictures?

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/l...set-image2.jpg

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/l...et-revised.jpg

You are a funny guy! First off you said I was incorrect in my post, what exactly was incorrect? Again you said you "ASSUME" his logic was simply confused. That doesn't change the fact that in his argument with TED he was wrong. 2nd in my post I had never directed my comment towards any particular person, all I had stated was not to provide incorrect info. So was I incorrect to suggest that correct info be posted, so that people that didn't understand got the right understanding?

Im gonna open this back up because i've been searching high and low for square wheel fitment specs and cant really find much (including photos).

I noticed TED had a lot to say. I found an old thread on the other forum in regard to the Roni n Speedworks wide body fenders. I currently have a slight interest in running those and did find a guy running a square set up with them but they were 12" wide and thats excessive for what im going to be doing with this car.

That being said I may just need to stick with the stock fenders and just fill them up well for the sake of practicality. Soooooo......... Here is what i want...

The widest I can go on the stock body (unless I can run the Ronin fenders and it no look stupid). 17" wheel is ideal .. maybe a 16.

My plan is that this will be primarily street driven but I do plan to get into some auto-x and hpd. I will also slay the dragon once a year.

I found this site http://www.rimsntires.com/packages.j...&req=newsearch a while ago when I considered replacing the BBSs because I thought my tire size was no longer available.

I shared that in this thread. . http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=18916 which had a good conversation with helpful info.

Obviously limitations are gonna be with the stock suspension but there are options out there. If the above calculator is correct then you can use that to give you an idea of what is available from whatever wheel manufacturer. .

Thanks Zach. Obviously the stock suspension is going to be changed so that won’t really be an issue when it’s time. Thanks for those links.

By the way.... I got an email from Ronin. This is what it says:

For a square setup I'd do either

295/30r18 on 18x10.5+0 (easy fitment: the white FC on our website is mine and is basically running this)

OR

315/30r18 on 18x11+5 (more aggressive, especially fronts, some added clearancing is likely)

-Joel Payne
(for RSW)


Id prefer to run a 17” wheel so I’m unsure if simply changing the sidewall size would make a huge difference. Would it?

I'd shoot for 17" wheels. Anything bigger looks strange on FC's, in my opinion. I really like the look of 16" wheels but wide tire options are hard to find. In my old setup I ran a square 16x8 +32 setup with 225/50R16 tires. That was about as wide as I could go in the front due to balancing fender and suspension clearance. A 17" wheel would have avoided the suspension (coilover locking collars, actually) due to the rim being further away from the hub.

I'm now running a square 17x9 +22 setup with 255/40R17 tires. Obviously this won't work with the stock suspension or bodywork though. I have the Shine Auto front fenders and I pulled the rear fenders somewhere around an inch. The rear would have likely fit fine with a higher offset.

Ok. That sounds good. I guess its obvious that my above post is assuming I use the Ronin fenders.... I guess we'll see what my mood is like when in comes time for that.. They look so good though.

Do you have photos of your current set up? I'd love to see it. In fact, I'd love if this thread was photos and specs.

17" tires are cheaper, and don't look 'donkish' on an FC. Our boy Jeff had 19's on his old FC. Ask him for a pic.

I never said I wanted anything other than 17". I'd prefer that or 16". The guy at Ronin just recommended what he had on his current set up. Im sure that same set up would work with 17 instead of 18.

Its the same car in my avatar. Zach has the only picture of the car left.

Based on infernosg's post... if I ran shine 30mm fenders all the way around I could use his same sizes and be fine?

17x9 255/40R17 tires

This, compared to my stock BBSs
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4330/...ac3b84ec_z.jpg

The good ole days. Got to love the smart phone pictures from 2006

The front will work just fine as long as you have an aftermarket suspension with smaller diameter springs. I have tons of room but I'm also running something like -2.5 degrees of camber. I have no experience with Shine Auto's rear over-fender things. I've looked around online to see how people modified their rear fenders to work with those and it seems like a lot of work. For me it was easier to just bang out the rear fenders about an inch since I was getting bodywork done at the time.

I need to take a more recent, not-blurry picture of my car.

Yeah when you do I'd love to see it. I think with any rear over fender some of the metal will have to be cutout to make it really work in providing the extra clearance.

The 19" wheels actually dont look bad. I still wanna stick with a 17". Unfortunately alot of the wheels i like are 16" or 18". I could probably be ok with a 16" im just not sure....

I had two issues with 16" wheels: tire selection and suspension clearance. The last time I checked there weren't many options for wide 16" wheels. 245/45R16 was being phased out and 225/50R16 was the most common to run on an 8" wide wheel. My issue with the suspension was the inside rim of the wheel wanted to inhabit the same location as the locking collars on the coilover assembly. I had to use those aftermarket camber bolts to rotate the hub away from the suspension and then dialed the camber back with the coilover top hats.