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-   -   Searching for a 1980 RX7 GS Tornado Silver (https://rotarycarclub.com/showthread.php?t=18698)

bbr 06-03-2015 07:44 PM

Searching for a 1980 RX7 GS Tornado Silver
 
Hello! I am new to the forum. My first car was a beautiful 1980 RX7 GS, tornado silver with a sunroof. I wish I had never sold that car, and am now in search of a replacement. I would consider another color, but would really like a 1980 GS with a sunroof. Will pay up for top condition. If you know of an available car or suggestions on where I should be looking, PLEASE let me know. Thanks!

toRn 06-03-2015 10:40 PM

It's not a 1980, but it's close.

http://www.coggintoyota.com/used/Maz...2fdaa34506.htm

t_g_farrell 06-04-2015 07:58 AM

rx7 forum sites, craigslist, ebay ... There are lots of cars out there. Your specific
requirements will make it easy and hard to find, LOL!

1980 is the best year for SAs and that color is very dear to a lot of folks. Expect to pay
5 to 10K for a nice example. Good luck!

bbr 06-05-2015 08:13 PM

Thanks Coggin Toyota - but I am really hoping to find a close replacement to my old car. Appreciate your help though. If you come across a 1980 GS please let me know.

bbr 10-07-2015 08:39 PM

Car purchased - thanks!
 
Learned a great deal from everyone on this forum and found a car. Thanks to everyone who posts!

t_g_farrell 10-08-2015 07:41 AM

So get some pics up of the car you got. We want to see em.

speedjunkie 10-09-2015 01:34 AM

Is it Tornado Silver or did you settle?

bbr 11-26-2015 10:03 PM

1979 RX7 Limited
 
Sorry - had not checked back in a while. I don't have pictures of my own, but below is a link to photos from the previous owner. Color is Beat Black (resprayed) but to me it looks exactly like my old 1980 Tornado Silver. Same grey stripes mine had, though probably not stock stripes post-respray. No rust. Someone spent some $ to rebuild just about everything, and all remains stock. ~500 miles so far and runs perfectly. Interior is very nice - bought new floor mats. Having the radio/antenna rebuilt (cuts out regularly) and may resort to having the shift knob recovered as it seems to be impossible to find a nice replacement. So far, great fun!

http://www.2040-cars.com/Mazda/RX-7/...dition-658849/

speedjunkie 11-27-2015 07:01 PM

That looks really good, congrats!

GySgtFrank 11-27-2015 07:10 PM

You might want to check your build dates on that. The car pictured is a 1980. There were a few minor differences between the years. Dash pad and gauges are a tip off. I believe the true LE's were offered first in 1980 as well. Either way it looks to be an exceptionally clean and rare car. Very nice find.

bbr 11-27-2015 10:34 PM

How do you check the build date? It does have several 1979 items: the 130 mph speedometer, points ignition system, the shorter antenna, and no lower rubber on the back bumper.

GySgtFrank 11-27-2015 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbr (Post 320833)
How do you check the build date?

It should be on the driver's side door tag as the date of manufacture. The tag is a stick-on with the GVWR and other info. It should be just above the latch on the body shell.

bbr 11-28-2015 05:10 PM

March 1979 build date

bbr 12-05-2015 12:35 PM

So two people have said the dash/gauges are a tip-off? The gauges appear '79 correct to me: 130 speedo and the Limited digit clock. Would appreciate details if I am overlooking something.

Addition question - Best oil for a stock '79 engine, both in terms of weight and traditional vs synthetic? Thanks!

GySgtFrank 12-05-2015 01:09 PM

This is the gauge cluster from a December of 78 build car.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/623/2...e3bef921_c.jpg79 RX7 gauges by Kevin Frank, on Flickr


The 1979 model cars also had perforations in the dash pad for a speaker on the right side of the dash.

I believe that you have a very early build 1980 model. It would have been one of the first off the line with that build date. Arguably even cooler than a late build 1979 model if I'm correct.

Most people advise not to use synthetic oil. I would stick to the factory recommended oil in a non-synthetic if I were you.

bbr 12-06-2015 08:21 PM

Thanks! Weird that the door tag definitely says March 1979, which would seem consistent with the 130 mph speedometer. I would expect my gauges are somewhat different in part because I have a Limited - hence the digital clock? Maybe the dash pad was replaced at some point - I only have records for the past two owners/maybe 15 years.

Thanks for the advice on the oil. Much appreciated!

bbr 12-06-2015 08:45 PM

Also read this "tip" and wondered if anyone had an opinion on the validity of the idea:

"A splash of two-stroke oil in the fuel tank at every fuel fill-up can help prolong apex seal life."

GySgtFrank 12-07-2015 02:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbr (Post 321170)
Also read this "tip" and wondered if anyone had an opinion on the validity of the idea:

"A splash of two-stroke oil in the fuel tank at every fuel fill-up can help prolong apex seal life."

Pre mixing 2 stroke oil with the fuel is a very common thing to do with a rotary. Typically most use one ounce per gallon of fuel. It will keep the engine alive if the oil injection pump fails. The two stroke oil also does not build up carbon like using the sump oil.

t_g_farrell 12-07-2015 08:59 AM

Thats a 79, look at the rear bumper, no numbs which only came on 1980s.

GySgtFrank 12-07-2015 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t_g_farrell (Post 321182)
Thats a 79, look at the rear bumper, no numbs which only came on 1980s.

I was hoping someone else would weigh in on that as there are so many confusing details on that car. It is probably due to being produced in March of 1979 when they were just starting to produce the 1980 models. All kinds of strange things happened around the changeover. You throw the special edition trim in there and I gets confoozled.

bbr 12-07-2015 10:07 PM

For the 2 stroke oil - any special type/brand? Car doesn't get driven all that much - maybe 200 per month and less in the winter. I do try to keep the tank full and use premium fuel (a good idea?), but any issues if the gas sits for periods? Does standard or synthetic 2 stroke oil do better? Thanks to all for the responses - greatly appreciated!

FC Zach 12-08-2015 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbr (Post 321272)
For the 2 stroke oil - any special type/brand?

Anything TC-W3 rated which most of it is now, if not all.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbr (Post 321272)
I do try to keep the tank full and use premium fuel (a good idea?), but any issues if the gas sits for periods?

It's a good idea to keep the tank full if the car is going to sit for any period of time which will prevent rust. As for using premium fuel. . In my opinion it's a waste of money using it in a car that doesn't need it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbr (Post 321272)
Does standard or synthetic 2 stroke oil do better?

I buy store brand which I believe is just as good as a premium brand especially if the car is only for occasional driving. However with that being said, I've flogged the piss out of my NA for many years and saw no negative effects from the cheaper brands. It's all opinion, in my opinion :D

FC Zach 12-08-2015 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbr (Post 321272)
I do try to keep the tank full and use premium fuel (a good idea?)

A little more on that. .
https://youtu.be/WjtS9R4muFE

bbr 01-23-2016 09:31 PM

Looking for advice on the best struts/shock for an otherwise stock 1979? The existing ones clearly need replaced. Thanks.

t_g_farrell 01-25-2016 10:47 AM

Theres two ways to go, refurbish the existing struts up front or replace with a strut insert.
The rear shocks are easy to source and probably need replacing.

The front struts can be refurbished, I think the FSM has the procedure in it for doing that
if you are up to it. Most folks just put in an aftermarket insert.

For a stock ride and stock springs I would recommend the KYB GR2 all around.


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