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would like info on my FC build
Well this will be my first rotary build, my car is a 88 FC s4 GXL I believe its N/A completely stock was a DD for my buddy and it just shut off on him one day don’t really have any idea what happened or why it happened. Ok iv been talking to a few of my buddies that are on this sight and on another local forum and hears what I have come up with for my billed
Ether use a complete s5 motor, Or s5 rotors in my s4 case Street port up graded springs Rx8 E-shaft Header Full exhaust along with no cats Custom set up cold air intake Clutch Flywheel I’m open to any advice that any one would like to give me. Don’t want to spend a hole whole lot on the billed. But I want to have a decent car I can go out and play in. Also don’t want to throw a lot of $$$ in because this is my first rotary billed so I don’t want to mess up and have to much in the car also would be interested in some other info to Some sort of big brake kit (prefer something I can make using used parts from other cars) Upgraded springs probably eibocks Or a set of full coilover’s Camber caster kit Strut braces Sway bar’s upgrade TII Trans, drive shaft, reared and axles And if any one has any of these parts around and would like to git rid of them id possible be interested prefer motor parts for now but would considered outers |
Sounds like a nice start. If you plan to rev it like it should be revved add and FD oil pressure regulator.
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o yea and in the rebild kist im looking at im planing on up grading the springs to with the bild
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Keep the S4 keg, upgrade to S5 rotors. I dont see a real reason to use an RX-8 shaft unless you like spending money on something that could be chewed up (seen the insides of a blown renesis and old bearings....its not pretty).
Streetporting is a good idea, choose your apex seals wisely, oem is usually the best. What header are you going to be using? Any NA with no cats is going to be loud, a header is louder, and no presilencer (like found at racingbeat) is going to be illegally loud and draw lots of attention from johnny law. Though have you confirmed if this car is really blown? "Just shot off" is not really consistant with a blown motor. Blowing a motor feels like you just got half your power stolen from you and the engine shakes like a beast. Ive DD'd my own FC for a week on 1 rotor, started and ran every day on that one rotor until it was removed and replaced. Sounds more like a spark or fuel issue to me, though confirm its blown by pulling the plugs and just listening to the sounds coming from them. Wooshes indicate 'healthy' seals, while nothing at all means blown. Good luck and hope my post helped. |
i know the preves 2 oners of the car and both complaned of under power the stock motor has 126K on it id say it ant really blow up didnt smoke any except for the useal cold start. i just figer it would be best to go ahead and rebild it and im perty shure the clutch is gone the guy that had it last sed it was and i know this is the car he lernd how to drive a stick on so so you know how that gose
why would you keep the s4 case? insted of giting a complet s5 and from what i was told is the Rx8 E-shaft was a lighter shaft and had better oiling as for my sils im planing on just the classic kit nothing big with up graded springs im just going on what i have been toled not trying to question ur resons just trying to lern |
Yeah, a actual blown rotor or one running on just one rotor for some reason will sound like flat-4 engine.
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I know, its a pretty distinctive sound really.
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so i was also told the 3rd gen FD E-shaft would work to whats the difrences in thim |
Not sure. Never really looked into them much as mine was fine and I am cheap :D
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S4 Shortblock
S5 NA rotors Race rotor bearings, 3 window bearings in stationary gears FD front oil pressure regulator spring, rear FD oil pressure regulator Streetport S5 NA Intake manifold 6 port sleeves removed VDI wire open RB Header to exhaust of your choice RTEK or some other sort of tuning tool No need for an RX-8 E-Shaft in a mostly stock build aluminum flywheel act street clutch If you're staying NA i'd rather go with an atkins type B rebuild kit instead of the RA, but it's your choice, definately get the upgrade seal springs though. Make sure you clean everything properly Change all coolant hoses, flush your oil cooler and radiator(professionally), change your waterpump and thermostat(OEM thermostat only, no aftermarket POS, buy it from the dealer!!!! or you will kill your engine) while it's still easy to do, buy new stainless oil cooler lines if the old lines look worn. Also look into cleaning your injectors and changing the wiring connectors for them as well. After that look into a Racing beat suspension package, poly bushings and koni sport/yellow shocks, with camber/caster plates and a rear camer adjustment bar. |
You dont need a big brake kit, get these:
Brembo blank replacement rotors EBC Green Stuff Pads corksport Stainless steel brake lines New Master cylinder ATE super blue brake fluid (or anything else DOT 4) That should refresh your brake system a whole lot and let you stop safely on the street. The stock brakes are more than adequate for any turbo car, much more so any N/A car. -Max. |
Max, go easy on him. He IS trying, you should see his post on the other forum he and I are on.
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Ok... edited.
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Thanks man, just don't wanna run off new members :icon_tup:
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S4TII swap not an option?
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/\ You know, that is a good idea for someone who has been an owner for a while, and gotten to know what it's like to be a rotorhead, but maybe it isnt such a good idea for someone who's just jumping into it? I think that the TS will enjoy their N/A just fine, and after they get to know their car well, they can go turbo? A lot of people complain that the FC is slow, but after driving my moms huindai, any sportscar is fast! Also, my vert is faster than a friends auto 944! (althrough that's not saying much :D)
Personally, I am going the N/A route so I can learn how to drive and not kill myself in the process, :D |
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is there any difrences between the s4 and s5 short blocks good or bad no motter what im going to use the 5 rotors for the higher comp Race rotor bearings, 3 window bearings in stationary gears (would these come in the rebild kit normaly) FD front oil pressure regulator spring, rear FD oil pressure regulator(will do) Streetport(will do) S5 NA Intake manifold (what would be the advantig over the s4) 6 port sleeves removed (um can some one explan this) VDI wire open (can some one explane this) RB Header to exhaust of your choice (i was looking at there rase vershin) RTEK or some other sort of tuning tool (whats RTEK can you lenk me to info on this) No need for an RX-8 E-Shaft in a mostly stock build (so no Rx8 E-shaft?) aluminum flywheel act street clutch (would like to pick up a used clutch and flywheel together for right know just a decent light weight flywheel and a up graded clutch ACT or exady dont want to spend 400 bucks thin tern around and end up swaping in a TII tranny and what not perfer git one cheep used but still in decent condshen no puck clutchs tho) the rebild kit im looking at is a basic stock rebild kit and im opting for up graded springs i was told the up graded seal were to touf and could eat up the rotors or somthing like that hears the link to the kit im looking at http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_kits.htm this is not my first motor rebild altho this is my first rotary rebild do you thank the stock injecters will be fine for this bild im hoping thay will be as fare as suspension not a big thang right know but im looking i gess i eather want a full race coil over set up or a decent set of struts with a set of eibock pro kit and a caber caster kit |
well, if you plan on acting crazy then yeah, start NA to prevent death and increase power later. If you can control urges to act silly then I don't see how a stock S4TII would be less safe than an NA. It's not about being fast or slow. It's about power-to-cost ratio for me.
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the reson why im wanting a loger brake kit is becouse this car isnt just going to be a car i take out and joy ride in this car is going to be seeing Auto X corses and highway 421 and the dragen probly some to i would like to have that eatra little bit of braking power if at all posoble and i perfer using factry parts from outher cars becouse if somthing fucks up you can always go to advanc and have it in the next day but if i can up grade it i will mostlikly go with brembo rotors, hawk pads, and SB brake lines and call it a day |
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it hurts.
Go out and drive the 7 first. GO find it's limitations and THEN spend money. You're doing it backwards. |
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FIXED your posts but DAMN! I can't do it again. WTF is lematachens?????????????? |
Some input from my worthless mind.
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IMHO, deep groove race bearings aren't required at all. In fact, I wouldn't even change the exisiting bearings in your engine unless they are trash. For what you're doing, money could be better spent elsewhere (unless you require them due to damage) Good luck with your build :) |
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ok sorry about the spelling but i ment limitations iv had enuf cars in my life turo supercharged and NA what i want is a nice quic throtle respons that you dont really git with a turbo i posted it up that i was looking for some info right know i would like to git one for the car trust me ill over drive those brakes the first time up highway 421 but no im not in a hurry for that the motor is the main thank im just looking for info |
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well the way iv alwasd looked at motors i want it to be reliable every thang from the race motors iv bilt to a frekin geo metro i freshend up lol id perfer replace the barings now will the motors going to gether thin latter down the road thus wear out any any thang else this motor is going to be driven hard people:driving: thanks for yours and evry ones input |
Thats my point though, new bearings in a rotary really aren't needed unless they're trash. New bearings are more likely to spin and cause damage then old (but still useable) bearings for a number of reasons. One being clearances are so so so super important on new bearing engines its not even funny. The only new bearing engine I've had personal experience with had damaged bearings when I tore it down after blowing it up.........................every original bearing (that was useable) engine I've had has been fine however.
You should also know, if you're using an RX-8 e-shaft that there's a small (half thou?) taper on the front main. If you don't use an RX-8 bearing there you'll spin those fancy race bitches off in a hurry. |
is there any difrences between the s4 and s5 short blocks good or bad nitrided stationary gears, thats it you dont really need them though
no motter what im going to use the 5 rotors for the higher comp Race rotor bearings, 3 window bearings in stationary gears (would these come in the rebild kit normaly)no you would want to order them seperate FD front oil pressure regulator spring, rear FD oil pressure regulator(will do) Streetport(will do) S5 NA Intake manifold (what would be the advantig over the s4)(about 12HP iirc, and if my sources are correct) 6 port sleeves removed (um can some one explan this)aux sleeves suck, remove them VDI wire open (can some one explane this)you dont have an option for the vdi on the s5 intake so youll need to wire it open RB Header to exhaust of your choice (i was looking at there rase vershin)just get the collected version RTEK or some other sort of tuning tool (whats RTEK can you lenk me to info on this)http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=rtek7get the one for S4 NA No need for an RX-8 E-Shaft in a mostly stock build (so no Rx8 E-shaft?) aluminum flywheel act street clutch (would like to pick up a used clutch and flywheel together for right know just a decent light weight flywheel and a up graded clutch ACT or exady dont want to spend 400 bucks thin tern around and end up swaping in a TII tranny and what not perfer git one cheep used but still in decent condshen no puck clutchs tho) the rebild kit im looking at is a basic stock rebild kit and im opting for up graded springs i was told the up graded seal were to touf and could eat up the rotors or somthing like that hears the link to the kit im looking at http://www.rotaryaviation.com/overhaul_kits.htm this is not my first motor rebild altho this is my first rotary rebild do you thank the stock injecters will be fine for this bild im hoping thay will beyes as fare as suspension not a big thang right know but im looking i gess i eather want a full race coil over set up or a decent set of struts with a set of eibock pro kit and a caber caster kit[/COLOR] |
Listen to the guys in here.
-The engine, you can go a whole lotta ways. Build it for mid level power, and long life. HP is not what its all about, no matter what some people say. -The brakes. I think you will find that the stock brakes on FC's are pretty damn GREAT, that is why they continued to use the same calipers on FD's. In all honesty, nobody really NEEDS 'big brakes'. There is no point in arguing it here, that is just the way it is. -The rest of the car, do whatever makes you happy (which means, we need to approve as well). If I see a big ol' wing, or sleepy eyes, I just might cry. |
I don't cry, I black out and go postal. :lol: in the end, we can only recommend things we think are important. If he wants to continue to do things his way then great. As long as he shares his work and final product I'm happy.
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im not going to go do any thang like a big ugly ass fast and the fouries wing lol im not a ricer lol im leavin the stock mazda wing on the car it will most likly be receving a set of 17" koing wheels im probly going to leav the koing stickers on the doors who knows whats under thim and of course its going to be lowerd when i start giting into suspension stuff and probly tent the windows and thats about it every thang else is going to be drive tran and suspension
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You don't want Koenig wheels if you are looking for an improvement over stock. They design their wheels to fit the Honda crowd.
FYI- I stepped down from 17" wheels to the factory BBS convertible wheels (with wider rubber of course) and the improvement is amazing. I shaved about 8 lbs of rotating mass from each corner of the car. |
so hears the question now shuld i git the race barings or shuld i git new ones i know if there shot i will but if there not just stick with the old ones
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i have a set of 17" koing wheels that i have ran on every thang from DSM's 240's, 300zx, explorer...... and the car has this koing sticker that who knows how long thay have been on the car and well dosent look to bad but afrade ifi go trying to remove it who knows whats under it so i figer use those tell i decided to paint it or git enuf balles to remove those stickers |
so if i git a chanch to buy a complet s5 N/A motor would it be worth paying just a litle bit more and using the s5 insted of my s4 short block just wondering
ok so a s5 intake manafold would it be worth porting and polishing it as for tuning i have somthing in mined but dont know if it will work with a rotary yet tho |
I know I'm jumping into the discussion a little late (just cause I have a hard time trying to decipher your posts, but... I won't hold it against you), but I was pretty close to the same position you are in now about a year ago. What I decided to do was build the car from the ground up. What you need to decide prior to buying all the parts or even thinking about the parts is how much power do you want to put down to the road. What's your main focus with the car (or as I like to put it, the over arching philosophy)?
For me I wanted my end result to be able to put down anywhere from 400 to 600 hp and still be reliable. This means that I will have to pay alot more than most people to get it done right. Once I set the power level and what the use of the car would be I wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to go back and redo more than I had to later on (unless I wanted to). With that mentality I aimed specifically at the suspension first. With your suspension, what do you want? You want to be able to brake all that power in a controlled manner. If you're HP goals aren't going to be Huge (read that at anything more than 350+ or so) then your stock brakes are fine. Honestly speaking there is no need to go to a large brake kit for the most part even if you exceed that rule of thumb. Just get new pads that are better than stock. Next you want to look at your tires. Is your foot print big enough for your power? That's pretty easy to verify, up it. Granted some people run over kill on their cars, but they're in racing--so they need that extra grip. After that look at your suspension geometry, do you need adjustability? Do you need stiffer spring rates? Do you need camber? Do you have or do you want to eliminate DTSS? These are things you should look at prior to your engine specifics. Once you have your suspension dialed in it's time to look at your engine. You want high compression rotors from an S5. Why? They're not that big of a compression increase from S4. If the extra .2 of the ratio is worth it, then go for it--just remember that the majority of the horse power increase comes from the VDI, not the compression ratio. Beyond that there are some good things to do while the engine is apart: porting, 3-window bearing, ectera. RX8 eccentric shaft... That's personal preference I presume and I'll leave that input up to the more experienced members on the forum. Also when considering your engine, what are your end goals with it? Do you want reliable power? Do you want all out fast from it? Are you going to convert it to a 6-port turbo? These are questions that should point you in the right direction with the project and give you a rough understanding of what to expect. What I'm always scared of is that if I do not have my suspension dialed in how am I supposed to control my car in a tough situation? Adding more power to no suspension increases is a dangerous mix to say the least. Just my two cents though. |
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