60-1 Aftermarket coolant hookup q.
 

I thought the turbo had to be connected in series to function properly?

I got my universal coolant kit from Turbonetics yesterday and they attach in parallel. Is that normal?

I'm just curious. I'll use the setup they gave me cause it's really nice, but I was just wondering if people usually run turbo setups like that or if they run them in series.

Could you post a pic of this setup? I know turbo's, but I have no idea what the hell you are talking about whatsoever.

You'll have to forgive the ms paint pictures. Best I can do right now.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...o/Parallel.jpg
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...rbo/Series.jpg

You're talking about coolant lines to the turbo? Pics? I don't know what you're talking about.

Yes coolant lines. Those ^^ are the best I can do right now.

ok, so you're saying that the stock ones are mounted in series but your kit mounts it parallel.

THe stocker is connected to the water pump and the other line goes into the block.
Water line to the block: Water flows from motor to turbo.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...20Swap/111.jpg

here is the hose that provides water from the pump:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...TurboSwap5.jpg

http://rotarycarclub.com/attachment....1&d=1218741257




Does this help^^^?

If this is going on a turbo engine, just connect one side to the LIM coolant feed (just under the EGR) and one to the bottom fitting on the water pump (an N/A pump doesn't have a nipple cast into it)

If its going on an N/A you'll need to get creative, but I would run the rear iron's coolant nipple to one side of the turbo, then the other side of it to a drilled/tapped nipple on the lower water pump inlet.

Actually that explains it perfectly. That is a parallel setup, ie: it is not in-line with the rest of the system.

The only reason I assumed it should be in series is because Aaron Cake mounted his in series with the throttle body lines. The kit should be fine. I'll post picks of the kit later tonight so everyone can understand a little bit more.

It is going on an NA. The kit I have allows for connection from the inlet pipe for the coolant going to the cabin and the outlet pipe going from the cabin to be tapped for coolant. This doesn't affect the current coolant path, but puts in a detour that coolant and travel to to help cool the turbo.

I forgot about your NA to turbo mod. Good luck, take LOTS of PICS!

LOL, no worries. I'm trying to locate my sisters camera so I can actually take pictures of the kit.... But I can't. I still need to take a picture of the Bumper Support Bar for what's his bucket. Man, I'm totally slacking....

Now the real question is if I want to leave the short block in my car while I do the wire and pipe tuck too... hmmmm... I think I might.

I don't know what you mean by tucking your wires. What wires can you hide?

ANyone have a pic of a "tucked" car.

I'm planning on using a bulkhead connection and moving the engine harness to directly over the transmission. This will effectively limit the wires you see coming to and from the engine.

I'm further going to mount the body harness either through conduit or through the frame.

I'm planning on also eliminating a majority of the HVAC lines that are strewn throughout the engine bay. I'll also modify the cabin units to accept the connections via bulkheads.

On top of that I shall also move the engine bay fuse box somewhere else if not replace it completely withan after market fuse case.

I'm also planning on moving the coils to inside the cabin and using a passthrough bulkhead connection to power the spark plugs. Alternatively I would use direct spark ignition if I had a stand alone yet (either next semester or later this semester--we shall see).

I will also be pulling the AAS cables and tossing them since I've installed my teins.

There's a few other things I'll need to think about on how to hide/modify them, but for the most part I think that's about it. I'm debating on if I should get some new hydrolic lines constructed to replace the stock ones and run them similar to how the HVAC lines will be run.

The reason why I want to clean up the engine bay, besides asthetics, it will be remarkably easier to pull the engine in the future. I will also be able to isolate and find specific leaks quicker than before. I will also be able to have more room to work with to fit a bigger radiator and any other parts I deem necessary. Those are just a few of the reasons.

Alot of people have done partial wire tucks, but really it's something that's only been really popular over on honda techs. I've already relocated my battery so the other stuff should be similiar. The car will be down for a few months anyways while I install the turbo and what not, so I might as well clean up the bay and make it nice and pretty.

I'll just dig up my other tech thread and append the details over there.

This thread is full of stuff that confuses me and makes me want to cry a little bit.

I need pics.

Or I'll cry.

I swear I will.

No crying allowed. What pictures do you want? I've been kind of busy trying to get everything ready for me to get back to school (however I have to deal with some other issues) so I have to hold up on modifying the car any for the time being... well... maybe not completely, but I'm still going to be hard pressed until the end of september. We'll see though.

Give me a list of pictures you want to see and I'll see what I can come up with.

Universal Coolant kit:
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...o/IMG_3307.jpg
Extra goodies including a -4 an stainless steel oil feed line :D
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o...o/IMG_3308.jpg

Well, I'm confused about the routing. The pic you provided looks like it goes through the heater core, and if it does that means you have to have the heater on all the time or it will just block the flow of coolant. This would be a bad thing both ways unless it is always winter.

I could have gotten that wrong though, and that looks like a baller kit. Where did you get it from?

I can scan in the instructions a little later on if you'd like. From what I understand it hooks up to the hoses that go towards the cabin heater core and away from it. They're -an T junctions so the coolant wouldn't need to have the heater on (since it's not in series).

The kit itself came from Turbonetics Inc. I've been working with one of their sales reps on getting parts like this for the na->turbo conversion. For what it's worth it's alot cheaper than peicing it together one bit at a time, and probably cut down my headaches a few times over.

The 60-1 turbonetics turbo we installed on my buddies miata ran in parallel fine. Its been doing good so far. He's running a koyo radiator, but no other cooling modifications really and the temps are steady. He did build a duct to direct air under the FMIC to the rad though, but other than that, no issues.

You should be fine.

BTW - I'm doing similar wire tucks on my FC for the same reasons. I'm starting with a clean slate though, no wires right now at all :)

Oh how I envy you! I won't be able to start stripping the engine bay until after the 2nd of october... Unless I send in the cash to for that faulty exhaust deally. It really depends though. Do I spend the cash on gas to come up, or do I just pay the ticket? Which one will be cheaper... hrm...

Well if you got the ticket in Culpeper, good luck. They hate imports, period - always have.

I wouldnt envy me - my FC project is a LONG process, lol. I've built it three times already, and this last build is already on the 2nd year!

Then I might as well just pay the ticket out of pocket then. I got it right on the culpeper exit. I thought about driving over the median but that probably would not have gone over well.
You're talking to the kid that wants to put his FC on a rotisserie so he can fix the undercarraige and unibody. I put it together way to quickly the first time through.

^ Yup. I'm not going the rotisserie route since its unibody. I'm going the up on a lift/tall jackstands and grit blasting and recoating in POR15. I also plan to have any jack points reinforced and new jack points (pinch weld style) welded in.

Sounds like what my goals are, though it'll be a rare event when I actually have time/money to do it.