HOW TO: Installing RE SPEED Front Big Brake Kit
 

Having just completed installing the RE SPEED Big Brake kit i figured i could explain the run down on its installation.

For starters i would like to say, i love this kit. I might have too buy several of them just to make sure that in case of something happening, i will still have a few. Its simple to install if you have the right tools. I happened to have a torch which made it cake.

Required Tools:
12mm Socket
14mm Socket
17mm Socket
Brake Cleaner
Oven or good torches. Torches are best
Larger pliers to hold stupidly hot adapter piece

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...B/DSC03662.jpg

I wont go into details on removing the original parts since that is clearly explained in a variety of manuals or can be figured out rather easily. So i will start at the point of having just the spindle, cleaned and ready. But you can expect the lower caliper bolt to be located behind the bottom strut mount. So you will have to removed both bolts from this and the tie rod in order to get it moved out of the way. You'll see what i mean. The new kit will not have this issue.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...FB/5lugFB5.jpg

As you can see above, this is the 84-85 spindle. Bare of the rotor/hub assembly which are a single piece. The dust shield and caliper mount is also a single unit.

Everything removed can be seen in the photo below:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...FB/5lugFB4.jpg

What you will need to complete the swap is essentially all of the FC parting parts. This includes the calipers, rotors, hubs and optionally, the dust shield. You will also need wheels what will clear. Stock FC wheels do not clear. They are nearly one inch off.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...FB/5lugFB3.jpg

Now you are ready to start installation. First, make sure to clean the spindle off of grease with brake cleaner. Bearing grease is nasty so have several rags available. You will also want to completely clean off the two adapter pieces supplied in the kit.

First, follow the instructions regarding test fitting to see if the spindle is undersized. This is very important. Neither of mine were undersized.

The adapters are fitted at a very tight tolerance. Installation is done by heating them to expand the piece so that when it cools, it becomes one with the spindle. To do this i used a Oxy/Act. torch. I did one side at a time to ensure i gave full attention to everything. I heated up the pieces for only maybe a minute. Once the material starts turning blue, its far more than ready to go on. Don't go melting it or anything. Once heated up considerably, I use a larger pair of pliers and gently pick it up and slide it on. Lightly hold it in place for a few seconds to ensure it stays.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...FB/5lugFB2.jpg

Now for the bracket installation. There are two ways to install it. One would put the caliper forward of the spindle, the other behind. Behind required the use the of the roll center blocks, else it will contact the steering arm. I opted for forward of the spindle since i did not have said piece. Also the welded on threaded parts should be facing the rotor. Else the spacers really wont make too much sense. In the picture below this is how the bracket more or less should look. But you can see that i have it wrong with the welded pieces facing in towards the engine...

To attach the bracket the original 14mm bolts from your FB will be used.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...B/DSC03722.jpg

Now the rest is generally easy. Attach the hubs. Grease everything properly. If your bearings are worn, now is the best time to replace them. From here the rotor can go on. Finally Attach the calipers. The gold spacer will be used at the top. I had some clearancing issues with my kit that was an abnormality but was resolved by just changing the spacers around to clear. Once the caliper is attached you can add your pads, springs etc. I would recommend the use of caliper lube on the two pins to ensure they move properly and do not seize.

Below is the setup completed.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...B/DSC03742.jpg

Next is the brakes lines. There are several options to work with. You could use the 2nd gen two piece lines, and make a new hard line portion, buy the better fitting RE Speed ones or use the FB ones with some extra bends. I had a stainless FB line from Russell already in use, so i reused them. Came out fine without much work. Finally bled the brakes out.

End results? Well i can't drive the car yet BUT the brake pedal feel is OUTSTANDING!!!!\

Now for your wheels, stock FC wheels will not clear!!! You need about a 1" spacer for that to work. You will also need a 15" rim to clear the calipers. I am going to use a set of 0 offset 15x8.5 wheels i have once i get tires on. Clears by a lot, but will need fender flares.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...B/DSC03743.jpg

Can't see the pictures from this computer, but I'll check it out when I get back to my place. I'm sure, as always, that you have done an outstanding job. :)


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What was the issue with the FC hubs? I just replaced my front bearings so i may be able to help.

the one set of the rotors/hubs decided they could not stand to be apart. So they would be. Had to get another set of hubs. Which i did today, but i ran into another issue im trying to resolve.

Regardless, this is not something you should do with a small time frame.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...%20FB/fmyl.jpg

I installed this kit and it is awesome. Re-Speed did a great job designing it.
I have pics as well and did not use a torch to heat it up. I put them in the oven for about 5 mins and then litely tapped them in place with a rubber mallet and large socket I had.

Good luck completing the install.

L8R

I just came across a doner FC. I'm gonna favorite this and try it in the future

Re-Speeds kit is spot on and a great upgrade for the FB, and for those guys that dont want to change wheels (4 lug to 5) simply substitute the FC 5lug hubs for the 4 lug, get a set of blank rotors, and have the 4 lug pattern drilled for them.

Though one word of caution: FC spare tires (the multispoke enkei's) + 4pot caliper = little clearance for fingers. I happened to be checking for fitment and bearing noise when the wheel 'sucked' my right hands middle finger between a spoke and the caliper. Spent the next 4 months regrowing the completely ripped off fingernail.

I just finished helping Sam, DJ55B from the "evil forum" install his front BBK. Went on fairly smoothly and certainly brings his car to a halt in a hurry. They will also look fantastic once he gets those Ford Ranger wheels off there. Parts fit great and one day I'll be getting the front and rear kits too.

Did you do the back brakes?

nope

Are you gonna leave them like that or do you have a kit for them? I'm thinking about doing this later

since the SE rear already is vented, ill probably leave it. If i later decided i need to get more out of my brakes, ill look into it

Are you running two different rims?

yes. Which made choosing a size a hassle. Probably going to opt for some 4 lug FC fronts once i get back from basic

I'll do this then and leave my backs alone

where do you get blank rotors to drill for the 4 lug?

They do not exist. You will need 5 lug rotors. A machine shop will need to locate on one of the existing holes and then add 3 more. You will end up with dual pattern.

-billy

is there any way to upgrade the back of the car to 5 lug as well? Different bolt pattern wheels is kinda meh...

On the same token ... can you get a machine shop to re-drill a set of 4 lug rotors to 5 lug?

yea, Billy sells Moser axles in the 5x114.3 pattern

Yes we have the axles as well as rear brake kits for 5 lug rear brakes.

No, it does not work going backwards do to the placement of one of the stock counter sunk holes.

-billy

Can I use a 4 lug FC front rotors and do the big brake upgrade?

You can use the FC single piston calipers and rotors an it should fit just the same. But I dont think you can use the 4pot calipers with the 4lug rotors, dont quote me on that, but I 'doubt' anyone makes a beefy 4lug rotor for the 4pot caliper, I could be wrong though, but it wouldnt hurt to call a few parts stores to see what can happen, I managed to use a 5 lug rear hub o my fc, but continued to use the base model 4lug caliper and not so heavy duty rotor.

No in order to use the 4 piston caliper you will need to use the larger rotor.
Many use the 4 lug hubs with re-drilled 5 lug rotors to do this though.

You simply pick up the center of one of the 5 lug holes and drill 3 new ones.

-billy

so you said stock fc wheels wont fit without the 1" spacer, does anyone know what the stock fc offset is?

Adler, just pick one from the pile you guys have and look on the back side. Should have the size and offset somewhere.

Dork.

im lazy, and didn't even think of doin that haha

They are somewhere in the 40MM range.

You just need the Moser axles and big brake kit for the rear. All from ReSpeed.

biggest thing i have been trying to figure out is an issue with the brakes bleeding out just fine, having good pedal but still not being able to stop the car like they should....Something with the calipers maybe? Perhaps one is seized? All the pistons moved though when i had to install the pads. Thoughts?