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Now What ???
Ok Waste gate is port .no emissions , gas pump new ,OMP new, TPS new, sparks plug and cables new, front mount new intake new, blow off valve new, boost sensor new, ECU new. Pressure of gas pump is good Timing is by the book .
And the car still miss fire any more ideas so i can buying more stuff. |
Test parts instead of buying them to ensure that they are working before replacement.
Honestly, it may be carbon build up and incorrect oil so it's causing pre-ignition events. When's the last time you had your injectors cleaned? |
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Compression is good?
Vac leaks? Put up a video |
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Leading spark? Coil?
Do you have an ignition pack? Is it or the coil properly grounded? TPS should have no dead spots and it needs to be within the specs (can't recall if you've set the tps). Also what the hell is a "lither?" |
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oh, ok, i thought it was new lingo I wasn't up to date with :lol: check your spark tho.
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http://www.johnr.com/cpucodes.html |
you're not writing too well so I can't fully understand what you're trying to say....I think you said the misfire stopped but now you have no power when you floor it and the check engine light is on. Right?
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...51&postcount=7 Check those ^^^^ links and start testing the TPS... those directions are fairly simple to follow but the most important is making sure there are no dead spots throughout the whole range. |
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keep us posted.
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retest TPS, check AFM, check leading spark (coil, main relay, plugs, wires), recheck for vac leaks...pretty much everything everyone has recommended.
I gave you links to info on HOW to make your own code tester to pull the codes and further pinpoint the issue....the links also includes a short list of codes, and how to tune your TPS. That same thread has a link to the FSM which explains how to test the AFM, the coils (although I've never wanted to test the coils like the FSM says due to fear of getting electrecuted).... The best tip is start with a compression check THEN test the TPS. |
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You have an S4?
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I'm at work so I can't look anything up, I'll try when I get home....you're saying that your TPS only has 3 of the 4 prongs to test it?
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don't put your number out in public like that....too much hassle from spammers and crap.
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http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...0&d=1207271267
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...9&d=1207270816 You're missing the DCC2?? |
yep
What can i do? |
ummmmmmm........is the wire still attached where DCC2 should be? Are you sure you're holding it right side up? (don't mean to insult, just making sure we're both looking at the same part in the same manner).
If you can then splice into the wire and plug in DCC1 and ABR the regular way.....got a pic? Also, I don't think I'd be much help on the phone since we'd still be on the same boat trying to figure out what's wrong. |
No no cable is just a empty spot
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this one to
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damn, I have no clue how you would check codes without it.....
Move on and test the TPS? |
Check the FSM for the color combination of that wire. I bet some one cut it back or ran it back into the cabin. Basically track back from that plug to where it connects
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too much....just test things one by one. unless he can find part of the original wire and rewire it.
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Ok keep u posted tomorrow
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also, I've updated the FSM and TPS threads I posted above, go take a look and it all should look/read better with working links and images.
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boost doesn't go over this. Is normal?
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you shouldn't be boosting with a posible bad TPS, AFM and or timing issues.....it's ALL kinds of bad bro.
ANd no, it's not normal. You should be hitting at least 5 psi. The pic is horrible but whether its in psi or barometric pressure, it SHOULD be above 0. Is your gauge installed right? Loose hose? stop boosting. |
this is with the car off
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