Cleaning inside gas tank
 

Hey guys, I recently bought a walbro 255lph fuel pump, and during the process of installing it, I found out that I have a lot of crud on on the bottom of my gas tank, as well as rust on the sides.

I did some research, and found that a good way to fix this, is to use a 50/50 solution of Muratic acid and water to eat the rust, then flush it with water, and chase with alcohol to remove moisture, after which, to pour tank sealer on the inside of the tank, and let it cure.

This has been done by people on the evil forum, as well as a lot of people who own mopeds and motorcycles.

(PS: Muratic Acid can be safely diluted by using banking soda, so it's safe afterwards)

Another thing I found some people posting, is that they took their tank to a radiator shop to get the same thing done to it.

Does anyone here have experience with this, or can give me any tips?

Thanks,


Max.

Yeah, don't do it.

I was clogging fuel filters withen a 1000 miles becuase the ethanol was attacking the coating and sending epoxy through my fuel system. I was finding chunks of the coating floating around in the fuel tank

I have a boat at my place right now that needs a new fuel tank becuase the ethanol is going after the fiberglass fuel tank, I was pulling yogurt out of his fuel filters.

Clean the tank, but don't seal it. If you do seal it, talk to the manufacturer and make sure that whatever they sell is compatible with ethanol.

Ok.

I am planning to talk to someone local who has done this job as well as calling my local radiator shops to see if they can clean the tank out.

I'm sure glad that you posted that info btw, I never did read far enough in your thread to figure out what the problem was. :D

Radiator shop is the way to go, around here at least.

Yeah, I took mine to a rad shop probably 6-7 years ago. Everything was fine until this spring. I would be VERY careful and probably not seal it, just clean it.

Hell, for the price of a new tank, I'm buying a new tank..... $357 I think? I was quoted $350 to clean and seal my old back-up tank and they couldn't tell me whether or not thier sealer was ethanol compatible. I'm not taking a chance to save $7 and some shipping.

Lol, I just called a local AAA radiator and brake shop today, and the guy tried to sell me a new tank, he also would not listen to what I had to say, and kept asking me about year make model... what a douche bag.

I will try some other local shops on monday. As a side note, I found out why my fuel gauge did not work! The bloke who last changed the fuel pump must have removed it... currently waiting on a replacement one.

Was the 350 for a complete job, or just to bring the tank in? I found price quotes of around $100 from other people who did the radiator shop thing.

And where did you get the 357 price for a fuel tank? I only found one from Mazda at $1200! :eek:

Not sure about the $357, but Mazdatrix has them for $506.84

http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=42-110D-FB01

I don't pay dealer, or web for stock parts.... I have my ways :driving::suspect:

Mazda Motorsports Program? I guess I could try that, but regardless I am not planning to buy a new tank anyway, so it would be useless.

So then why post this:

You make it sound like anyone can go and pick up a new tank for $357, so it's not worth it to clean the old one out. Not very helpful to the OP if it isn't something that is attainable to the average joe. If you were to reveal your source, that might be helpful. :)

MazdaMotorsports Program ;) Not very hard to get into the program and yes, every average Joe that can handle his car on a track, or even auto-x can get into the program.

well, I found a guy that will do my tank for $98, even coat the outside too. He works at a radiator shop, but has a boil tank at his home shop. I went down today to drop off my tank, and the guy looks legit. He had some tanks laying around that were done, or in the process of being done.

I talked to him about the tank sealer, and he told me that a bigger problem than ethanol is old fuel. Apparently when people seal their tank, and then let the gas sit in it for a long time, it begins to varnish, and the varnish is what really attacks the finish.

I'd be VERY leary. Such to the point that I wouldn't do it but Dave and I fought this problem for months, and all I've been seeing in the marine world is fuel related problems for years too. Ethanol blows.

Well, I will call the guy, and tell him not to coat it unless there are holes in it or something.

If there are holes in it you have other concerns and should find a used tank.

I did the tank for my '59 Austin Healey myself using the method described. The secret is to use the right tank sealer. Find Bill Hirsch's sealer, a few companies sell it, Bill even sells it direct from the web. It is by far the best I've found and it will handle ethanol no problem. The FC should be really easy since you can remove the pump and pick up.

edit: went out and got the link for you http://www.hirschauto.com/

Thank you!

Thread resurrection.
So I was replacing my fuel filter today along with checking out my fuel-pump-filter.
And found a layer of particles on the bottom of the tank.
So Sunday I'm dropping the tank, and cleaning it myself.

So whats a really cheap way to do this, materials wise?

I was thinking water flush, then paint-thinner/acetone/etc flush.
Purple power flush?
What do ya think?

call a few radiator shops, ask them if they have a boil tank that can take care of gas tanks.... cheap and easy to do...

Muratic acid is not recomended for big gas tanks, works better on motorcycles and moped style tanks.

Sludge factory.
 

So I dropped the fuel tank.
I wish I took better/more pictures (will post up sometime this week), cause this was awful.

So the tank had a layer of brown gunk coating the insides.
The rectangular little basin right under the fuel pump, had maybe an inch or 2 of this brown gunk in it.
It was so bad, I put the fuel pump back in, and it wouldn't seat on the tank, i had to wiggle an push on it for it to seat.
So the bottom of the fuel pump must have been sitting on the pile of gunk.

Its all out of there now.
You can actually see metal now.
And the walls/separations are not rusted through.

I 1st flushed it with water from the garden hose, then put purple power through it, then flushed with water again, finally flushed with a quart of acetone.

Putting the tank back in was a pain.
But I got it done.

I think I actually felt more power when I drove it. ha ha ha.

Pictures.
 

Yeah, that brown gunk came out of the tank. There was chunks actually.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...DSC_0010-1.jpg

The inside.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0011.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...h/DSC_0012.jpg

nasty shit bro

Looks like an elephant had diahrrea!!!

lqtm.

Ok to make this post more...

During DGRR I had no problems at all with left turn fuel cut, etc.

It was very fun.

I have had great results cleaning inside tanks with a kit from Summit Racing. Its only like $50 and has a cleaner, a primer, and a liner in the kit. It works wonders. Good luck...