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Three point Strut Tower and engine Torque Brace
This will be the THIRD strut tower brace to go on my car and the second one I've built...... sad. This one is by far the sexiest in my eyes. All aluminum, oval tubing, fits soooooo tight everything needs just a wee bit of prying to fit.
Anywho - the first was a standard Greedy that just never fit right. I used the base from that strut bar to add onto so it would sit further forward clearing the alternator, that was the 2nd iteration. Since that base was what a few other things were built around - the expansion tank and the intercooler pipes mainly, I decided just to copy that footprint and go from there for the 3rd version - so here's what we started with Before I sold my other bar I traced the outline and went from there. I like to use a scrap piece of cardboard with two holes through it to make circles with. This marks the diameter of the shock mounting holes as well as the lip that needs to be cut out http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199129583 With the base cut out I can start templating the pieces needed to mount the bar itself too. This got changed around a bunch, you'll see what happens. http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199129583 With the pieces pretty much squared away I cut a piece of stock slightly long just so I can make sure everything fits, the bar is level, it clears the alt and the intercooler pipes etc etc. It does hit the hood slighty but a little massaging will clear that easily enough. The twins have the outlet pipe set far forward and even with my best efforts to keep the bends as tight as possibly, it still required the hood to be massaged. Mothing big, just about an 1/8" on a few of the supportst. No biggie at all. [/img]http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=39600&stc=1&d=11991295 83[/img] With the templates made I cut out all the pieces that I would need. I then doubled them up in the vise and filed them down until each piece was an identical match of the other. The car herself is dead level so every thing that needs to be built on her needs to be dead level as well. You can see where I heated and bent one piece. I wasn't confident I would be able to get a full 90* bend out of the other piece so the plan changed slightly http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199129910 With the two mounts more or less welded into place I drilled a hole though the center of the bar and mounted it loosely to to check to make sure everything still fit properly. http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199129910 After I was confident everything was as it should be I cut out another piece to run perpendicular and finished welding everything up http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199129910 |
Using the previously drilled hole as a guide I busted out The Ole' Joint Jigger. Absolutely invaluable tool for certain things. I took my time setting it up and knocked out a fishmounth. The tube that I got for the ends is some really stuout stuff. 1" OD 1/2" ID.
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199130250 Perfectly square and true. http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199130250 Welded a section of tube on for the mounts and made another test fit. http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199130250 With one side mounted and a level on the bar we can check for clearances and man oh man is it tight! From the front http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199130510 And from the back. ~3/16" clearance! Better hope that 400+BHP motor doesn't rock. It does, but we'll address that later on http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199130510 Now that I'm sure everything clears as it should I can finish the other side as a perfect copy and mount it up. http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199130510 With one side of the bar inplace we can pull a measurement and add slightly too it - 1/8" just for pre-load if you will . Not to mention I've only once been the guy saying, "I cut it twice and it's still to short!!" Again, taking time to set stuff up pays off in the end. http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199130722 After I checked everything for fit I welded everything up. The heat into the bar caused it to lengthen so much that I couldn't get it to fit. It took a while for it to cool before I could get it in. The time I spent scratching my head as to how that extra 1/8" appeared allowed it to cool enough. http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199130722 And from the front. Now it's starting to look like something http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199130722 |
I had a few holes on the firewal lip already from the previous bar so I used those as a starting point to build the mounting feet out of more 1/4" aluminum. The passenger side was in a great place. The drivers side I made the first time slightly off square to accomodate the brake lines. Becuase I'm replacing the brakelines due to rot, I said screw it and made everything perfectly square. Regardless we started with the feet.
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199131044 Then cut a length of stock, and trimmed it, and filed, & trimmed and filed and checked for fitness. http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199131044 Then checked for level and trimmed it, and filed, & trimmed and filed, & trimmed it, and filed, & trimmed and filed until 'twas perfect. http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199131044 After literally hours of fitting a bunch of weird and compound angles and making sure I could contract 1" tubing to a 1/4" plate I was finally happy and then proceeded to burn myself and the paint welding everything up. That's okay though, the engine bay is getting a repsray soon http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199131373 I pulled the mount off and welded this side solid as well. Just becuase I'm anal about it I trimmed the mount to follow the arc of the tube.... yup - I'm that guy. http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199131373 And then spend a few hours repeating on the other side. http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199131373 Time to solve the clearance problem posed when the engine rocks. Taking a few notes from Graco about removing the hoist mount for the 13B-REW's and a few ideas I had my own I came up with this piece that bolts to the back of the motor. http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199131650 Bolted it to the back of the motor, I then cut out it's couter part to be welded to the rear bracing and tacked it on. I used temporaily the sway bar hiem joints for the rear. The thinking is if it does transmit too many vibrations, I can use a stock rear sway bar link with the energy suspension bushings in there. In the mean time this will work just great until I order a few more from QA1 http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199131650 Checking to make sure it's on an even plane with the motor side http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199131650 Welded in place for life http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199131650 And finally mounted http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199131650 |
And thats a weekends work. Best strut bar I've built yet. I absolutely love the material too. Outside the marine world it's very unique. Now I just need to take all the anodizing off and powdercoat it
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199131991 http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1199131991 |
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Nice work man, can you make one for my 8 :)
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this is me drooling. sweet strut/torque brace... this fab sextion is sweeeeeet! good call sir Brian.
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so... did you get to watch her change shirts at least?
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we'll damn to much going on and missed the boat on this one. I had 10 RCC tank top shirts printed up and missed the event. :(
how many turned out for the meet? |
Awesome job on the strut tower bar!! Make me want one :) Great job!
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Damn nice work TT, looks great.
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great thread man. Great car.
What do you do for a living btw? |
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