This week, rebuild resumes
 

After being away from home for the last six months, I will resume the R&R of my vert engine.

Like the rest of it, the injectors have never been out of the car.

1. Will they come out easy, or will there need to be force? And if so...
2. Is there anything on the injectors I have to be especially careful not to break?
3. Who should they be sent to for R&R. (This is a stock engine, and will forever remain stock.)
4. How much does R&R cost? Is R&R a good bargain, or is it easier/more cost effective (I plan to keep my vert for at least another 19 years) to replace them with new ones?

Pictures to follow.

My car has 160k on the ticker and my injectors came out easily. Be careful with the injector clips on the wiring harness. The twenty year old plastic likes to break. I sent mine to WitchHunter Performance. It cost me 15 dollars per injector to get them sonic cleaned, new injector seals, and a flow bench sheet showing how each injector flowed before and after cleaning. When you get them back paint the bodies, as they will blast all the stuff off, making them look almost new.

If, when you get them back look at the flow sheet. If any of the injectors is still flowing significantly less than its maximum it might have to be replaced. I only had one that didn't flow at its full potential, but it was only 2cc's lower than it should have been.

Thanks, I will put them on my 'check out' list.

Anybody else recommend anyone?

+1 for Witch Hunter. I got my injectors back just over a week after I sent my set to them.

If the lower sealing grommets are original, they will likely need to be replaced.
These should be soft, and they seal the bottom of the fuel injector to the intake manifold.
They will harden over time due to all the heat (at the top of the engine).
These will induce an intake manifold vacuum leak if they do not seal well.

The o-ring from the fuel injector (top) to fuel rail will most likely be reuseable.
They usually do not harden cause the fuel keeps them cool.
You got to be careful removing and replacing them, as they "nick" easily.
Once they are damaged, you need to replace them.
I would just inspect these and make sure you see no visible signs of damage.
Most fuel injector cleaning shops will usually replace them - ask them about it.
If not, it might be a good idea to remove them before getting them sent out to clean?

Then there are the air bleed valve under the fuel injectors themselves...
These are the plastic thingees that help with (fuel) atomization at the tips.
They also help the fuel injector (tips) sit correctly in the holes - thus, you should not remove them.
On top of the (brown) plastic body, there are a number of o-rings that keep them snug.
They plastic pieces are fragile, and I would not recommend remving them if possible.
The o-rings are rock hard, but they do not really seal anything - trying to remove the o-rings off the plastic air bleed valves is a royal PITA anyways, so they are better left alone.
This whole paragraph was written just to tell you leave those things alone. :)

There is an upper grommet that tends to get crushed upon install, but I question if they are really needed.
They look like they just insulate the fuel injectors from the fuel rail itself.
I guess if you have the money, it doesn't cost that much to replace...

I think that covers all the soft seals on the fuel injectors!


-Ted

Thanks RETed (Ted?), I will remember to look this post up at the removal time. Looks like a lot of good information.

Check the pulsation dampner too (im sure you will)

If you send your injectors to WitchHunter they prefer that you leave all of the parts on the injector so they know exactly what seals to use when they replace them.

One caution I have learned about having the injectors cleaned and/or rebuilt

Because Witch Hunter is so fast on the return, don't have them cleaned too far in advance of putting your engine back together...

Guess this means my injectors wern't too bad...

Mine were barely changed after getting them cleaned. This is after (assuming it was the original engine) about 120k miles.

Yes, mine had 200K.

Did you notice ANY difference when you got them back?

Dunno guys, the gas milage should imrpove, and hard starting should also.

Right now, my car just WONT start hot, and you have to put your foot down on the gas to start it when cold.

Really thinking of doing this myself, since I'm putting in a lower milage engine anyway.