Hylomar, which to use?
 

In one of the rotary forums there was a thread about this. I searched around a little but didn't find it.

Their product line:
http://www.hylomarsealant.com/_resou.../products.html

Here's what I know: The hylomar formula has changed. It used to stay tacky, but now it hardens.

Here is what I don't know: When you buy hylomar in rebuild kits or from suppliers (Atkins, RA, Pineapple, etc) what formula are you getting? Hylomar Universal Blue or Hylomar M?

From reading their product line Advanced Formula sounds like their old formula.

I ordered all my rebuild parts and forgot to order hylomar. I'm thinking I'll simply go to the parts store and order it. Which should I order and will one tube be enough for one rebuild? How much does it really matter which of the formula used?

I have a tube here it is the Universal blue racing formula it is non-setting and seems to be the same as what I used when I built my first FD's engine about 11 years ago I bought mine at Advance auto since they seem to be stocking it again.

^1 have used the Real stuff before and the new stuff they are selling at autozone. both work just the same and just as well!

Thanks for the feedback. I've been reading about using crisco. From what I've read so far it doesn't swell rubber seals like vasoline. I may go that route for the fun of it.

I found universal blue racing formula on pepboy's shelf, but I kinda like the idea of some homecooking crisco engine :P