best oil wight for a fresh rebuild??
 

Ya, so I got nuthin as far as the best weight to use in a fresh rebuild. Anyone got a solid knowledge (kevin Rted anyone in the know) of what to use?

Mazda recommends SAE30 (straight 30 weight), but use anything BUT synths...
10W30 or 20W50 is okay.

Do not use synths cause they are too "slippery".
You need a little bit of friction to allow seals to bed in nicely.
Synths work too well, and don't allow the engine to do this properly.

We'll leave the whole synth oil debate for a later thread... :P


-Ted

I used 10w40 in my rebuild. After about a year, I switched to 20w50.

Sweet. Thanks for the info guys. I prolly run a good 10-30 for break in, then switch to the 20-50 once she is nice and ready.

Hey Ted, will the synth even matter if the OMP is removed? (he didn't say he removed the OMP I know). Doesn't even seem like it would matter in that case though unless maybe there were new bearings involved.

And since I am on this track anyways. If you were running straight premix, is there any premix to avoid during break in?

-Maniac

Make sure you're using a TCW-3 two stroke oil to premix (apparently anything else will not burn clean).

This is something I'd like to know, too, because I'll be installing the Rotary Aviation OMP adapter with my rebuild.

You should really start your own thread on this, since it's going to get involved... :)

I would still recommend NO synth on break-in, OMP in effect or not.
We're talking about the other seals like side seals, oil control rings, and even the corner seals and apex seals.
Oil is still distributed on the side housings, so all those seals are affected.

Premix should always be used, period.


-Ted