200 hp questions?
 

Backround
Hey you guys im going to be running a 13b na with ITB's megasquirt, and probably a large street port. im hoping after its all said in done i will have around 200hp with other mods. my question is right now im not SP and im just seeing what i can get out of itb's.

Question. What kinda of Hp is safe with the stock Fuel pump and injectors and at what point should i upgrade. im thinkin for 200 or so a wall bro 255 and a bit larger injectors would be fine but what do you guys think?

THanks

You'd roughly be pushing 80% duty cycle on the 460cc's at 200hp. You could just get the TII injectors and fuel pump.

If you're doing the Megasquirt tuning yourself, just keep an eye on your duty cycles, and you'll be fine. As a stop-gap measure, you can adjust the fuel pressure regulator (for ITBs, you are changing the regulator, no?) and bump the pressure up a bit. 60psi or so should see you a reasonable increase in injector flow, but settle on a flow rate before you start tuning.

I would get the TII injectors, they are 550cc and you'd be running less duty cycle with them. I wouldn't expect 200hp from a non-ported NA motor though. Even with the extra fuel.

I've done research on this before and it didn't seem worth the money. 200hp on an NA without a standalone is hard, if even possible on a non-ported motor.

What about with an OPEN HEADER!! :rofl: A great option if you're already deaf...

On a serious note though, if you haven't already gotten rid of your catalytic converter(s), do so because cats will hinder your efforts. If you can afford to you would do well to also get a high flow header, I hear Racing Beat makes good ones (and the rest of the exhaust if you want it). Sorry, I can't answer your actual question though, I'm a NA virgin (well, there was this one night stand, but I didn't take her home to mom and dad...).

An open header wouldn't be the best option. I would get a racing beat header though. And then do a 2.25" or a 2.5" single exit exhaust.

yes i plan on a racing beat hearder. and i know not to expect 200 non ported. if you read my OP i said once it has a large SP light weight clutch flywheel and other misc. odds and ends i would like to be right around 200.

FYI- you will only need the 550's for secondaries. No reason to have a pig rich idle.

the exhaust and the porting are going to be the two things that will really make that number happen and they have to compliment each other.

kinda like peanutbutter and jelly mmm mmm !

I dunno, I really want to see what my motor will get after the car is done and the rtek is tuned, to give a baseline for Bobby's (nop1stons) itb setup? I'm sure that whatever I get, a proper itb setup, full standalone, porting, and good tuning will make more, and I'm shooting for hopefully 150 whp? Ludwig told me not to set my sights on a number, but I think 150 is safe to hope for with an S5 motor, full exhaust, no emissions and a rtek? :D

You say you plan on getting a Racing Beat header but you haven't said which one. The street header is a bit short for stock ports, and will be worse if you port the exhaust. I would suggest the road race header collected shortly after the flange(will vary depending on your ports and peak RPM) or the AWR header which is built for streetported road race cars.

If the motor is in good condition you should not have a problem breaking 160whp. My 180k mile S4 motor was right around 160whp with stock ecu.

a premade generic header will probably not be suited to max your max power goals.

I made around 160 wheel in my S5. It's not unattainable at all. Especially with an ITB setup.

ISC Full Exhaust system is the best for power, but it's the loudest system. It's usually made for track only cars but if you really want the power number, then be prepared for a lot of noise violation tickets.

200 whp will still be tough with a large SP, ITB's and a Racing Beat Exhaust.

I made 161 whp using a GTUs with a K&N Drop-In Filter Replacement, Racing Beat Collected Header, Racing Beat Pre-Silencer, Racing Beat Cat-back and Rtek, with fuel and timing tuning on the dyno.

Run 4 x 720 if you're going to change the injectors, no reason to pussyfoot with 550's unless you get a good deal with them. Since you have a megasquirt and you'll be tuning from scratch, you can just turn down the duty cycle at idle or anywhere else you need to lean out the fuel curve. I'd also get a pump as a precaution, because the last thing you want to do is run out of fuel.