disabling coolant level sensor
 

I have an after market radiator, and the thread pitch on the sensor I couldn't figure out (wasn't metric, wasn't NPT). I'd like to either replace the stock sensor with an aftermarket sensor with an NPT thread pitch, or at the very least by-passing the sensor so I do not hear the buzz (though I would prefer the former over the latter). What do I need to look for in a sensor to make sure it's compatible in voltages?

I've heard of multiple ways to remove the sensor altogether - but none of them worked. Grounding this wire, powering that wire..........mine would still go off from time to time. Had to rip out the buzzer itself.

As for replacing the sensor, You'd have to check it out. Being one wire I'd imagine its likely a type of switch to ground.....but I ahve no idea, if I ahd one in front of me i'd bust out the DMM and tell you.

But if you decide to delete it altogether - be prepared to pull the gauge cluster and snap (one of the many) the little buzzer off the back of it.

the coolant level sensor is only a piece of conductive metal. when it is grounded, the buzzer turns off. It gets grounded through the coolant to the engine block.

I dunno, I got a KOYO, it's has a factory spot for the sensor, I would try calling them about the thread pitch sizing.

It might be some funky BSPT pitch like the oil pressure threads on the rear iron.

What brand is this? I have never heard of this being a problem.

/\ why do they do that shit? It makes things impossibly difficult sometimes unless you have like a super tap and die set...

Guess I could just make my own sensor... lol. Since my radiator isn't connected to ground i could just take a metallic dowel and have it NPT threaded to screw in. Then solder on a wire. There done, you call me.

Yes, what kind of radiator is it? 1 800 radiator or Performance Radiators are 99% correct except for not being aluminum. Fit well, just aren't as effective as Al unless you get something much bigger. And then there is the cost in that much weight in the front of the car.
Just a point, to make a copper core radiator as effective as an AL you need a lot more core. And they weight a lot more than the Al. I haven't seen that copper cores in the FC or FD in Tucson`work very well.

BTW Thread is 12mm x 1.25

It is a ground switch, water touching it completes the ground circuit.
This is why rubber mounts are not recommended, unless you use a jump wire from one of the rad mount bolts to chassis.

It's an afco radiator and I custom made mounting locations for the temp and level sensor. I also tried a 12mmx1.25 and it didn't work. Oh well, in the mean time I'm just grounding it out and plugging the hole.

I'll tell ya man, a low coolant is the ONLY sensor that I do not have and I kinda wish I did. Of course that would mean that I loose some other warning. I do have an overheat warning, and I'm constantly checking the level so I generally have a warm fuzzy feeling about the whole thing. I would try very hard to keep the sensor if you could.

One possibility would be to tap into the factory waterpump housing and just thread it right in there. I know on the FD housing there is a 12x1.5 fitting that my Motec coolant sensor is threaded right into.

Why not plug that one up and tap it for 12x1.25 an inch over or so? Have someone weld and extra piece of aluminum there if it's not thick enough.

I prefer the NPT pitch and it's already tapped for that. When comparing prices I could make a sensor without issue for about 10 cents when compared to mazdatrix selling them for over $30 a pop. It's not that hard to take a piece of aluminum wrap it or dunk it in thermo plastic/teflon/non-conductive material (though for my application it is pretty asinine since the radiator isn't grounding out against the body--and I used metal and only metal connections, it's a pretty slick way for me to do it, lol shhhhH) and just solder or tin on an electrical connection. It wouldn't be that hard to do at all. In the meantime however I'm not going to waste precious time fabbing sensor when I can do that when time isn't at a premium.

Also, TTT if your stock harness is still intact (though I doubt it is since it's all going through cannon plugs) you can just make your own and use the stock warning light/buzzer without sacrificing an input/warning.

My harness was built from scratch brandy new. I have a few more inputs that I can use, though not on the engine harness. I would have to use the aux harness which would mean I would be better off putting it on the AST if I were to do it at all. Which in all honesty makes the most sense anyway seeing as how that is the highest point on the cooling system anyway. We'll see, I have bigger things to worry about right now although it is on the ultimate shit list to be addressed at some point

I thought that the reason for insulating the radiator from the chassis with rubber mounts was to prevent electrolysis in the coolant system?


As far as the threads not working: Perhaps its what's called "interference" thread? I used a tap and die set from Snap on, and when I tried to "die" a stripped stud on a coilover, it did not want to work with me, however I knew for a fact that it was the right thread size....

Sometimes threads are just funky like that. also, if you do "Thread chase" it, make sure to have the radiator upside down so that all the metal shavings dont end up in there! :D

The rubber isolators are to prolong the life of the radiator by isolating it from vibrations.