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Old 05-10-2010, 02:21 PM   #9
vex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
I sent Ihor (IR Performance) a dissasembled and powdercoated FD frame and alt and he had it re-wound and tested to something like 140A. The alt runs flawlessly once you rev it past ~3.5k and it kicks in. 14V+ @ idle with the lights, fan, and big ass stereo cranking. Bolts in, basically plugs in to S5 wiring and handles the RPM's. Brian is very pleased with that alt and would do it again. My only complaint is that it needs to be rev'ed up to kick in.
I've heard of that happening before, but I can't remember why they do it. I *think* it's to save the electronics as the heat production goes up, but I can't say for certain. What I'd like is an alternator that can be used at idle with out dropping in voltage with everything electronic going in the car, then having the same benefit while I'm driving. I'm wondering if the only way that could be done is with two alternators wired in, but that, to me anyways, seems to be going around your elbow to get to your ass.

As for GM/domestic alternators, there are some models that can safely be used up to 7500RPM or higher, but it would take away from the FS of the unit in total. I'd have to crunch some numbers to be certain, but I don't think it would be too much if an alternator is rated for an engine with a normal redline of 7500RPM (say a corvette), and then put on an engine that is able to rev to 9000RPM.

Out of curiosity how many amps does the RX8 alternator put out?
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