[Pete_89T2]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Lengthy? I'd use long, detailed, and thought out... someone's doing thier homework

Thanks - I just hate having to deal with do-overs due to poor planning

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Call/e-mail Dave @ KDR now Speed1, he ususally books a few weeks out, but around that time it might get a little more difficult as EVERYONE want's thier car done around that time. So I would finalize your plan, set a generous timeframe, then get in touch with Dave and setup a playdate. I don't know if he's used the RTeks... I'd imagine he has, but I would double check

I know Dave is a busy guy, and getting on his calendar is key to me making my DGRR 11 target date. I've got everything apart now, my turbo is ready to ship out to BNR, so I intend to have my plan finalized & ready to execute in the next few days. Speaking to Dave will be part of that process.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

The first thing I would do is a real comp test and inspect the engine as much as possible. Are you still running the stock OMP? I would be concerned with carbon buildup and some possible sticking seals. After all, 50k on a turbo engine is practically unheard of

I’m still running the OMP, but I do add a supplemental amount of premix to the fuel whenever I expect to run the car especially hard. I’ve been toying with the idea of using the rotary aviation OMP adapter so I can run premix via the stock OMP injectors, but I’m not there yet – I need to figure out a where to mount a big enough premix tank that meets the gravity feed requirements of the RA OMP adapter and still fits in what little space is available. Periodically I do the old "suck some H2O thru a vacuum hose" trick to steam clean the internals about once a year, and I make sure my car sees redline often. Hopefully all of this will keep the carbon from mucking up the seals. I haven't done a "proper" Mazda comp test in many years, but last summer when I checked using the modified regular comp gauge method, I get 3 even bounces of ~125 psi on both rotors so compression is probably Ok. Never had issues with starting hot/cold, at idle or making power.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

"the right setup" I would imagine is close to a full open exhaust, non-stock airbox, and some playing around on the dyno. So I wouldn't be surprised if you're setup produced a little less HP than that, but if that's not an issue as it doesn't seem to be, than I think this would be a good choice. While it's an upgrade, the only way to put less stress on the engine at about the same power outputs would be a totally custom exhaust mani and turbo. EMAP has a HUGE role in power output and stress on the engine. So IMHO, if you do upgrade, the BNR is definately the easiest, but not the most effecient or effective, but it's also the cheapest.

My setup will be nowhere close to BNR’s “right setup” – I’m staying emissions compliant, so the main cat will stay, and that will ultimately limit the HP my car can produce.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Don't worry so much about the transition. Anyone who knows what they're doing can make that little hiccup dissappear. I'm running 725/2000 and under any conditions, I can't feel any hiccups. Personally, I would sport for the ID1000'sx4. They're hi-imp injectors so they should work with the Rtek, there's a bunch of different configurations for length and width, so they can fit, the only issue is you'll need to crimp on the new connectors. You don't need to worry about idle quality either. The quality, linearity, and fine atomization of these injectors is unsurpassed. However, if you don't want to spend the money, than I would keep the stock 550's and get something along the lines of 1000-1300cc's

I think my FI selection is going to be driven by parts availability and/or budget. I did a few “what if” runs on that handy FI calculator Ted linked, and it looks like 720’s in all 4 holes will be plenty to meet my modest goals, or I can do as you suggest and stick 1000~1300’s in the secondary’s, and keep my 550 primaries. Tuning wise, the Rtek gives you pre-sets for running all 720s, all 550s or a 550/720 P/S split, meaning it will run the stock map, corrected for the additional flow of 720's, if selected. This makes my initial tune easy so I can get my car to Dave's without blowing it up. I'm not 100% sure, but I think 1000cc FI's may be getting close to the upper limit Rtek can manage - they say they can support injectors >720, but they don't provide any hard numbers. Need to talk with them to find out more.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Nope, get a new one. Walbro's are an option, but I hate them. Bosch's are another option, not a huge fan. Liek Ted said above, Denso pumps are the way to go. The Cosmo pump is a great drop in replacement. No fabrication required at all, RotorSports sells a kit or you can get the "One Time Fit Kits" that NipponDenso offeres. I saved the box from by Supra TT pump if you want the actual factory part number. The one that most resellers grind off the top so the secrets cant get out.... Well I know most secrets

Shoot me that Toyota part # if it’s handy – I know a guy who works for Toyota, maybe he can hook me up cheap.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

How does the Rtek calc load? I was under the impression that it was EITHER MAP or MAF, not both as I;m getting the impression.

Best I can gather so far, Rtek simply allows you to tweak the input parameters that drive the stock ECU fuel/spark control algorithms - it doesn't do anything to change the algorithms themselves. It also allows some additional user control over certain stock ECU functions/behaviors under certian conditions (e.g., turn off overboost fuel cut, turn off AWS).