[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Pete_89T2

I know Dave is a busy guy, and getting on his calendar is key to me making my DGRR 11 target date. I've got everything apart now, my turbo is ready to ship out to BNR, so I intend to have my plan finalized & ready to execute in the next few days. Speaking to Dave will be part of that process.

Well, we just got on his calender for 1/29/2011 to give you an idea. I'd would bet you could call and set up an appt with Frank, and then talk specifics with Dave through e-mail.

Originally Posted by Pete_89T2

I’m still running the OMP, but I do add a supplemental amount of premix to the fuel whenever I expect to run the car especially hard. I’ve been toying with the idea of using the rotary aviation OMP adapter so I can run premix via the stock OMP injectors, but I’m not there yet – I need to figure out a where to mount a big enough premix tank that meets the gravity feed requirements of the RA OMP adapter and still fits in what little space is available. Periodically I do the old "suck some H2O thru a vacuum hose" trick to steam clean the internals about once a year, and I make sure my car sees redline often. Hopefully all of this will keep the carbon from mucking up the seals. I haven't done a "proper" Mazda comp test in many years, but last summer when I checked using the modified regular comp gauge method, I get 3 even bounces of ~125 psi on both rotors so compression is probably Ok. Never had issues with starting hot/cold, at idle or making power.

Yeah, that whole redline a day keeps the carbon away is bullshit. It may help keep seals from sticking, but it doesn't keep rotors clean. Again, I would defer to Dave for this. Personally, with the turbo and mani out, I would stick a finger in through the exhaust port and make sure the Apex seals are cleanISH, move freely. You can do this with the side seals if you pull the mani off. If there is ANY doubt, I wold crack the keg open, clean everything and reset the side seals. All told a rebuild like that can be done in a week and parts cost will be VERY minimal. But, if a real comp test is done and everything checks out... go for it.

Originally Posted by Pete_89T2

My setup will be nowhere close to BNR’s “right setup” – I’m staying emissions compliant, so the main cat will stay, and that will ultimately limit the HP my car can produce.



I think my FI selection is going to be driven by parts availability and/or budget. I did a few “what if” runs on that handy FI calculator Ted linked, and it looks like 720’s in all 4 holes will be plenty to meet my modest goals, or I can do as you suggest and stick 1000~1300’s in the secondary’s, and keep my 550 primaries. Tuning wise, the Rtek gives you pre-sets for running all 720s, all 550s or a 550/720 P/S split, meaning it will run the stock map, corrected for the additional flow of 720's, if selected. This makes my initial tune easy so I can get my car to Dave's without blowing it up. I'm not 100% sure, but I think 1000cc FI's may be getting close to the upper limit Rtek can manage - they say they can support injectors >720, but they don't provide any hard numbers. Need to talk with them to find out more.

I love ID injectors. If 720's will meet you goals, I would run 4 ID725's. Or, the 725/1000 in case you decide in the future that you need more power... as we all do at some point If you do decide to go with non ID injectors, I would keep the primaries as small as possible.

Originally Posted by Pete_89T2

Shoot me that Toyota part # if it’s handy – I know a guy who works for Toyota, maybe he can hook me up cheap.

I'll go digging tonight. If it's not in one place, I don't know where it is.

Originally Posted by FerociousP

They also have these pigtails that I used for completely plug-n-play install. (tho pricey)
http://www.rceng.com/Denso-Clip-Connector-P48C9.aspx

I wouldn't call those pricey. You gotta figure if you're not buying in bulk, you'll pay close to $5 per connector, or $10 in plastic per adapter. So you're paying them $8-10 to assemble it which isn't that bad at all if you can't do wiring. I hate adapters where unecessary and these are not needed. Clip the old ones off and crimp on some terminals and you're done.