Easiest way I've found to remove the rear subrame is this.
Jack up the car and remove the exhaust from the cat back
Remove the driveshaft
Remove the muffler heat shields
Reposition jacks underneath "Frame Rails"
Grab two creepers, three jacks and two friends.
Two jacks go at either end of the subframe, and one under the diff.
Lower all three together onto the 2 creepers and slide the whole assembly out.
Takes me all of 25 minutes.
When removing the axles, unscrew the nuts until they are at the end of the stud. Hit with ball pien hammer. Remove the nuts, push the studs out, the axle falls away 
__________________
-The Angry Stig-
DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC
DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!
2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!
I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact
Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
|