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***TitaniumTT*** · 01-24-2011, 11:02 AM

I'm using an RX8 e-shaft, and front and rear stat gears that come with the bearings. Some say don't use the Renni shaft, but I only know of one failing. All my internals are also cryo treated as well.

The engine that I tore down was factory original. 200k miles, virtually no wear on anything. This was also an n/a engine though. I couldn't believe it really. West Marine generic TCW-3 oil mixed at 128:1 for most of it's life. SUPER clean internals. There were also 2 failed coolant seals. One in each rotor. I'm wondering if the coolant didn't stream clean the engine as he said he ran it for a few months until it got so bad it wouldn't start.

Either way, I've heard that the nitrating only lasts like 30k miles. I strongly disagree with this though.

I'd be curious to see the rotors, see if they made contact. I thought you said that the corner seals were worn down, not the rotors itself... my bad.

Question for ya though.... are you premixing as well? Or using just the RA MOP adapter? I'll be honest, first engine in this build was using just the RA adapter. There were signs of wear on the outsde edges of the rotors/seals. Now I run the RA adapter with the Idemitsu premix and I also put 1/4 oz per gallon of gas in the tank. The wear seems to be very minimal (and by minimal I mean there was virtually zero wear on the apex seals/housings/plates. The side seals I set to .0025" and they wore to .0038-.0051" after 10k miles and 100+ dyno pulls. Still < Mazda min spec

) but more importantly it's more even across the seals. The reason I believe is the pre-mix in the tank will get to more areas of the combustion chamber than just the factory MOP system with the 2-stroke adapter. The factory system was a compromise. I do like the variable rate of it though. There's no need to soak the engine with oil when you're just cruising down the highway. Then again, when you're on decel and the injectors are off, you're not getting any oil at all. So, it's my opinion that the RA adapter with some pre-mix in the tank gets you as close to the best of both worlds as you can.... just my opinion/experience.

01-24-2011, 11:02 AM	#15
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	I'm using an RX8 e-shaft, and front and rear stat gears that come with the bearings. Some say don't use the Renni shaft, but I only know of one failing. All my internals are also cryo treated as well. The engine that I tore down was factory original. 200k miles, virtually no wear on anything. This was also an n/a engine though. I couldn't believe it really. West Marine generic TCW-3 oil mixed at 128:1 for most of it's life. SUPER clean internals. There were also 2 failed coolant seals. One in each rotor. I'm wondering if the coolant didn't stream clean the engine as he said he ran it for a few months until it got so bad it wouldn't start. Either way, I've heard that the nitrating only lasts like 30k miles. I strongly disagree with this though. I'd be curious to see the rotors, see if they made contact. I thought you said that the corner seals were worn down, not the rotors itself... my bad. Question for ya though.... are you premixing as well? Or using just the RA MOP adapter? I'll be honest, first engine in this build was using just the RA adapter. There were signs of wear on the outsde edges of the rotors/seals. Now I run the RA adapter with the Idemitsu premix and I also put 1/4 oz per gallon of gas in the tank. The wear seems to be very minimal (and by minimal I mean there was virtually zero wear on the apex seals/housings/plates. The side seals I set to .0025" and they wore to .0038-.0051" after 10k miles and 100+ dyno pulls. Still < Mazda min spec ) but more importantly it's more even across the seals. The reason I believe is the pre-mix in the tank will get to more areas of the combustion chamber than just the factory MOP system with the 2-stroke adapter. The factory system was a compromise. I do like the variable rate of it though. There's no need to soak the engine with oil when you're just cruising down the highway. Then again, when you're on decel and the injectors are off, you're not getting any oil at all. So, it's my opinion that the RA adapter with some pre-mix in the tank gets you as close to the best of both worlds as you can.... just my opinion/experience. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-** Last edited by TitaniumTT; 01-24-2011 at 11:04 AM.