Quote:
Originally Posted by FerociousP
Well, that would be using a relay to switch a relay... but whatever. And also, notice in the FSM that the thermostat doesn't even fully open until 203*. If normal operating temp is 190-195, then the fan would come on while you were driving down the road, which you don't want to happen. As long as the connections are in good shape I'd imagine the wiring to be satisfactory.
But... if the switch isn't even there then this all doesn't matter. Just trying to make the mod as simple as possible. FWIW, I still use the fan clutch on my current T2 and have had zero cooling issues. Is the minimal parasitic loss worth the hassle?? Not to me.
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Yeah, that would be using a relay to switch another relay, but my concern is that the current draw of the Taurus e-fan is most likely much more than that of the puny stock aux. e-fan. That plus the fact that the stock e-fan wiring is over 20 years old means you might might burn up the wiring if you ran it direct. Now if we had some test numbers to compare the current draws on both fans, we could determine if the stock wiring is sufficient as-is.
WRT the switch temp, you're right that dropping below 200* would result in running the e-fan too much while you're moving, but that extra safety margin helps for times when the car is stopped dead idling, i.e., if you're running hard on the freeway and you suddenly find yourself stuck in a traffic jam. Kicking the fan on at a lower temp helps postpone the inevitable heatsoak condition.
I agree on the stock clutch fan, that's what I'm still using too. Even when I had my stock radiator, I rarely saw water temps go above 205*. I recently put in a Koyo N-flow radiator, and the same setup has kept me below 180*, but I haven't driven in hot weather yet.