Quote:
Originally Posted by anthonypunt
Not to be a pest, but this is my only ride and I don't got a lot of money to put into it right now, but that is for sure the problem? And how important is the fan clutch to replace?
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Ok, before doing anything else, PLEASE get yourself an FSM for use & reference, you'll need it. They are available online in .pdf format for free, here's an old link from my favorites that still may have them hosted:
http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/
To verify your water pump is shot, here's what you need to do:
1. With the engine off & cold, feel around the water pump pulley & directly under it for leaked coolant. If it's wet, and it can't be explained by anything else (such as hosing your engine down), then it's safe to say the pump is shot.
2. If it was dry, it could mean the leaking coolant evaporated, so go to a local auto parts store that rents/loans out specialized tools to find out for sure. Advance auto parts loans tools for free - you pay a CC deposit, and get 100% of it back if you bring back the tool undamaged. Ask for a cooling system pressure tester. Benefit of doing this is it will help you isolate ANY external leaks you may have in your cooling system. Bring it home & read the instructions that came with it. To test, remove your radiator cap (engine off & cold) and replace it with the appropriate tester cap that fits. Pump up the tester to about 14~15 psi (it has a gauge), look around for gushing leaks and wait. If your water pump is shot it will be obvious - coolant will be squirting out of it, as it will from anything else in your system that is leaky (hoses, etc.). If you don't see anything leaking, keep it pressurized for a good 15 minutes & wait. If pressure reading holds that long, nothing is leaking anywhere, internally or externally.
3. I explained how to test the fan clutch a few posts back.