[My5ABaby]

There's a screw on top of the throttle body. It may or may not have a rubber cap over it. You turn that screw to adjust the idle (I forget which way does what). However, before turning the screw you need to jumper the initial set coupler which is a green two prong plug between the drivers side fender and battery OR just unplug the BAC.

Here's some info from my main man HAILERS over on the rx7club:

Here's the deal. The BAC is supposed to compensate for loads. True enough. BUT, it wasn't ever meant to do the whole job of maintaining an idle. With the initial set couple installed, the engine should be idling *close* to 750 rpm. When you install the initial set coupler it puts the BAC's duty cycle at a set value that won't change as you fiddle with idle screws etc.

IF you fully heat up a engine, then install that coupler, the engine should idle close to 750rpm(repeating myself). IF it does not, then you need to adjust the idle using that screw and whatever else is availabe. Make sure the timing is set with a timing light first.

The idea is, if the idle is approx 750rpm with the coupler in, then when the coupler is removed, the BAC won't have to work is ass off holding the 750rpm idle even when a load is put on the engine later.

Personally I pull the BAC's electrical plug off when setting the idle. Easier.

And let it be known, that if the rpms are in the 800rpm plus range, the bac's air screw (turbo cars) or the dynamic chamber screw (non turbo) are not going to have any effect on the idle speed at all...hardly.

I've never been a bit shy about using the variable resistor on a series four car, to adjust an idle speed.

BAC'S are easy to check to see if they are working. Listen for the hmmmm of then cycling. Turn the key on and listen. It normally will be puttering away.