Quote:
Originally Posted by JustJeff
For the brakes I'm trying to get some speed bleeders to make sure I've got them bled properly. Problem is, my small town doesn't carry much in the way of metric parts. For anyone reading, four piston calipers on our cars are m8x1.0. I'm assuming the rears are the same.
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Instead of speed bleeders, look up the Motive Power Bleeder and get one of those instead. It's basically a pressure bleeding system. Best under $50 tool that I ever purchased - makes brake bleeding & fluid flushing so easy you'll want to do it just for fun.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustJeff
For the blown fuse. It turned on fine with a flip of the manual override. It stayed running till I turned it off. When the temps started to rise I checked to make sure the fan would turn on with the thermoswitch. I flipped the manual override to make sure it was operational....and got nothing. Temps weren't high enough yet for it to have turned on with the thermoswitch, I was just testing it. That was my cutoff point for cleaning up and heading to dinner. The only thing I did from that point was check the fuse and saw it was blown and bleed some of the air out of the cooling system.
I believe my ground wire for the fan is smallish and that might be causing my problems. The gauge on it is smaller than 10, maybe 12. I'm going to go through the wiring and make sure it's all 10 gauge. Well I probably won't do the thermoswitch wire that big. My understanding is that thermoswitch doesn't need that large.
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With that fuse blowing you have a short. Going back to your schematic, I assume that 40A fuse is between the battery + and the fan + terminals as shown. Somewhere, that current flow is being shunted to ground. Is that wire that says "optiional idle up" currently connected to anything? Maybe it's shorting somewhere in the harness? I don't have the FSM handy at the moment, so I don't know what that ECU pin 1O is supposed to be doing.
