Rotary Car Club - View Single Post - mil-spec v. auto-spec

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-01-2012, 09:36 AM

I should probably take a few pictures if I can find the correct wire and post up the differences between Tefzel and the PVC variant that the Haltechs use.

Basically Chris is 100% right. When you buy a MoTeC harness you're paying $725 for what Haltech sells for 1/3 of that. The MoTeC harness is Tefzel wire, and it is smaller, thinner and lighter... but is it really worth it? For the hobbiest (and that's a great analogy btw Chris) the answer is simple, no. I'll be running a PS2000 in my turbo 'vert, and I have no desire whatsoever to erdo that entire harness in Tefzel. I will however be using nothing by deutsch connectors under the hood and I do plan on using a Mil-Spec 262857 ( I think) bulkhead connector. But that's just personal preference. I prefer to build the engine on the stand, build it completely, attach the tranny, and drop it in as one. Connect the fuel lines, coolant lines, oil lines, and go. But... that's me, that's my preference.

I am curious as to what you have to write about heatshrink though, Chris. I only use Raychem DR-25. I know there are other options out there but I haven't researched or tried them yet. My good friend Colin has, and he has a few different options that he's currently researching and trying out.

02-01-2012, 09:36 AM	#7
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	I should probably take a few pictures if I can find the correct wire and post up the differences between Tefzel and the PVC variant that the Haltechs use. Basically Chris is 100% right. When you buy a MoTeC harness you're paying $725 for what Haltech sells for 1/3 of that. The MoTeC harness is Tefzel wire, and it is smaller, thinner and lighter... but is it really worth it? For the hobbiest (and that's a great analogy btw Chris) the answer is simple, no. I'll be running a PS2000 in my turbo 'vert, and I have no desire whatsoever to erdo that entire harness in Tefzel. I will however be using nothing by deutsch connectors under the hood and I do plan on using a Mil-Spec 262857 ( I think) bulkhead connector. But that's just personal preference. I prefer to build the engine on the stand, build it completely, attach the tranny, and drop it in as one. Connect the fuel lines, coolant lines, oil lines, and go. But... that's me, that's my preference. I am curious as to what you have to write about heatshrink though, Chris. I only use Raychem DR-25. I know there are other options out there but I haven't researched or tried them yet. My good friend Colin has, and he has a few different options that he's currently researching and trying out. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**