Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed
Yes.
Typically, the stock inner water jacket o-rings tend to "delam" when removed. The inner, orange stuff is silicone.
The outer white "liner" is Teflon?
The two materials don't adhere to each other too well.
One side note...
Mazda recommends putting the "seam" of the inner water jacket o-ring seal toward the intake port.
At this location, this is the area where that seal sees the least amount of stress - heat and pressure.
I noticed that you got your seams in approximately the 12 o'clock position almost dead top.
In general, you don't usually worry about them, although the one pic with the longer "cut" in it is kinda weird.
The seal has no where to go, so as long as the tear doesn't grow, the seal should stay intact.
You talking about that "smear" toward the center of the iron?
Does it pass the fingernail test?
Can you tell it's a depression by running your fingertip over it?
-Ted
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I'll have to rewatch the dvd, but I believe Atkins dvd suggest putting them at 12 o'clock.
About the damage on the front iron. I've reposted the pic. The circled area you can catch your fingernail on. It's been almost a week since I've touched the front iron....but as I remember it you can feel a depression but can only catch your nail in the circled area. I'll reconfirm that later today.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed
Again, like the cuts, usually not a big deal...
Seal has no where to go.
These dents are typical when using some kinda supplemental sealant with the water jacket o-ring?
Petroleum jelly?
Hylomar?
-Ted
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I used hylomar
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by yzf-r1
Take your pathetic ultimatums and stupid "AOL" comments and shove them straight up your ass, you little punk. You avatar is gay as well....
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1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas