Finally got around to posting back on this...
Here is a pic of where the Diagnostic box is under the hood. You can see it just in front of the driver side strut tower.
And heres a shot of the map for which input is for what.
And finally with the two inputs connected, the fuel pump will start running. Like Glenn said you've got to have the key in the ignition and the ACC powered on (but obviously not have the car running).
One little thing to keep in mind as well... I kinda retarded out when I tried to flow test my pump on Thursday night. You CAN NOT accurately test the fuel pumps flow unless you have your car attached to a running vehicle by jumper cables. If you try to test the pump without that then you will be sorely disappointed by the results (it will take you a good 5-6 minutes to fill 5-gallons, where it should normally take just around/below 1 minute). The battery alone will only supply 11-12v (enough to crank over the engine), in order to do the test you need to have your car seeing at least 14v (a working FD alternator should be pushing out 14.3-14.5ish volts) so that your pump can operate with its full power.