[JustJeff]

Originally Posted by Rotary Evolution

yea, the thermowax has a yellowed plastic port with 2 vacuum ports on it although the JDM engines didn't have that piece on it. the thermowax is what connects to the coolant port on the bottom of the throttle body to the rear iron so if it is missing then it must be deleted.

the JDM BAC has no idle air bleed in the BAC so the idle has to be hard set with the throttle stop screw on top of the throttle body facing the passenger side of the car with an 8mm locknut on it.

i prefer the voltage method over resistance because with older wiring you may get resistance within specification but once the wires have a load on them problems arise which is easier to spot with voltage under load than with a resistance method. an auto ranging DVOM will be a little tricky since it usually will auto range once you hit between 2 and 3 volts, causing the DVOM to lose the reading for a split second. you can choose your own range though so it will not auto adjust.

Thanks for the explanation on thermowax, I do have the coolant port on the bottom and am using it.

From your description it sounds more reliable for me to be setting idle with hard set than by tensioning my throttle cable.

And yes checking voltage does seem more reliable, I assume that using multimeter is the same idea behind using one of the test light tools..only you are looking at actual numbers

I don't know that I'm going to get much work done on the car. Drinking 2 bottles of wine seemed like a splended idea last night, but I'm not very motivated to get much done today.