Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed
When you get engine idling / running problems dependent on coolant temp, this implies the coolant temperature sensor could be the cause...
Does it check out?
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It did at the ECU pin anyway.
FSM specs for 2E:
idle cold: .4-1.8v
water temp 68: approx 2.4v
Mine was
idle cold: .532v
water temp 58: 2.357v
Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed
You talking strictly about the aftermarket boost gauge, right?
I think the aftermarket boost gauge is defective.
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Gauge is practically brand new AEM gauge. It mostly seems dead on, but every so often it bugs out and reads over. The manual that came with it broke down the voltage it sees in relations to boost the sender sees. When it is bugged out often times turning off the engine and restarting it corrects the issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed
In the first picture, the idle adjust screw is at the very top, middle of the pic.
I believe it's the same pic as the screw on the left in the 2nd pic?
The screw should be toward the rear of the engine, closer to the firewall.
The screw should be pointing toward to the passenger (US-spec) fender; you need to lean over the passenger fender to adjust this screw.
Don't mess with the "Fast Idle" screw, as this just adjusts the double throttle plates relative to each other - yes, it should not affect idle (that much).
This is still a stock TB, right?
No removal of the double throttle plates?
-Ted
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It's a stock JDM TB. It has double throttle plates. I just starting rebuilding a USDM TB that I'm going to put on once it's cleaned and adjusted.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by yzf-r1
Take your pathetic ultimatums and stupid "AOL" comments and shove them straight up your ass, you little punk. You avatar is gay as well....
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1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas