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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
Dual Bosch's huh? Did you get the optional muffler device? 
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LOL I didn't even think about if they were loud or not. I guess I don't need to change my exhaust to be quieter or reroute my dump tubes now lol. Honestly, I'd much rather have gone with smaller pumps too, but it seemed like the 044s were the most reliable out there right now. I was trying to wait for the new one Paul Yaw is working on with Bosch but I can't wait, I need to get this done. I'll switch to that pump down the road sometime.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
 Ok Eric... here are my questions.... when you say bulkhead connector, are you referring to a connector that can be unplugged or are you referring to something that will allow the wires to pass through without breaking the connection? I know Charles uses a GM connector that he machines a lip into for the connector.
I would get in contact with Charles and see what those terminals are rated for and what wire gauge HE recommends. 10Ga is HUGE... most are rated for over 30A! You could run 1 pair of 10ga wires and power both your pumps.
However, if the connector is only designed to accept an 18 or 16ga wire (as mine is) than you have a problem. The solution is to double up on the wires, however I'm not sure if you're going to have enough pins in the socket. Lets say for example that your Bosch pump draws 14A at full song, which is does http://radiumauto.com/media/techarticle-page.php?Radium-s-Ultimate-Fuel-Pump-Test-87, also a nice little bit on the noise level  and you have a pin designed for 18 ga wire. Well, that pin and wire combo can only handle about 11A. So, you need to pass 2 wire through for the 12v+ and 2 for the 12v- per pump. A total of 8 wires just to power the pumps. Then 2 more for the sender and the low level.... assuming you're still using them... But, that will give you more than enough current carrying capacity. I you're using a watertight bulkhead passthrough connector, they yeah, rock the 10 or 12 ga all the way through. Personally, I would use a 14ga, but that's me. 14ga is good to 17 or 18A. People start using ridiculously sized wire because they use cheap shit, don't know better, or just don't like working with the smaller wire. I was rewiring a bunch of shit last night to clean it up and I was getting annoyed with some of the 22ga wire in my harness. A lot of people use 14 wire to power their inejctors.... I use 20ga. This is all Tefzel though... ETFE I think... Which is what I would be running in the tank. |
I wasn't talking about a bulkhead. I was just talking about the connector on the CJ Motorsports hanger.
OK I'll get ahold of Charles then. I never thought about asking him what they could handle. I thought about asking him what gauge he would suggest but I figured I'd check to see what others used first.
The CJM connector has six pins, so I was planning on using two for the sender and low level, and then the other four for the two pumps. I was planning on using something larger than 18ga if I can, I'll probably do 14ga, but I'll check with Charles first. I want to get really good wiring for the fuel pumps, I'm not playing around with something as important as that. Do you get the Tefzel/ETFE from ProWireUSA?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
The Bosch's have studs on them. So really any eyelet will work, just bolt them down using the supplies nuts. They are two different sizes though, just be aware...
If you need to make an electrical butt connection in the tank, you'll need some Viton heatshrink. Shit aint cheap, I can't remember where I bought it from.
All the wire and connectors can be had from ProWireUsa... talk to Joe, he'll get you all set up with everything you need.... he may even have the heatshrink, although I think I bought mine through MoTeC when I got my bulkhead connector.... Lemme see if I can dig up some pics of my fuel cell setup... they're on a different laptop, but they're also in one of my build threads... yeah... that's like 200 pages to go through... lemme see what I can find...
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Yeah I already got the nuts for the studs on the pumps, they were not supplied with mine. I was just curious if there were solderless connectors out there that were good for submerging in fuel or if all solderless connectors were OK for that.
I can't think of why I'd need to make a butt connection in the tank, but maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're saying.
OK I'll talk to Joe. Once I figure out what gauge sizes I need I'll look him up. Thanks!
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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
If it we're me... I would skip the check valves and run two separate and independent lines, one feeding each of the rails, and then join them at the regulator. And I would use -6 if going that direction. If joining them, I would run a -8.
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I'd rather just run them together instead of running separate lines for each rail, so I'll probably just get some 3/8" aluminum tubing and join them just outside the tank. I'm not looking forward to bending it like John did with his though lol. Maybe Ambrosio can come to CO and do mine too lol.
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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
I would talk to Charles to see what those pins are rated for.... you may be disappointed in what they can actually carry...
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Yeah I'll do that.
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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
I believe the Bosch pumps do have a check valve... but I'm not sure if its a check valve that will hold the full pressure that the pump will put out. It may only hold like 10 or 15psi to keep a little fuel in the line to aid in start up.
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I did some research and it seems the Bosch check valve is the part bolted into the outlet and you use a banjo fitting on it, but I'm not sure if that's the same thing I was thinking of. I was just concerned with hurting the fuel pumps if there was too much backpressure, but maybe I'm not understanding what the check valve is for lol. If it won't hurt the pumps, I will just put a 12mm to -6 fitting in there and take out what Bosch put in there.
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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
FWIW - I made 540 RWHP on an FD running 1 Stealth 340 and stock lines. Would I do it on my car? No... just saying...
I remember reading something about submersible line, but can't find it now.
To my knowledge, the only real submersible fuel line is the pushloc stuff offered by Aeromotive. It's the same material through the hose from the inside out. So if it's designed to handle fuel on the inside, it'll handle it on the outside as well. That's what I ran and 5 years later, it still looks great.
Now.... lemme go find some pics |
I was looking at the Stealth 340s but it seemed like they weren't as reliable as the 044 after reading some reviews.
OK thanks, I'll check out the Aeromotive line.
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Originally Posted by FerociousP
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Thanks! I'll check it out.
Yeah that'll do it lol.
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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
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Wow. Yeah you always go way further than what I'm planning LOL. Thanks!