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Personally, I find it a waste of money...
Sure, I'm not going to argue that it gives you "more accurate" information about the "engine position"...
$200+ is some serious cash for some people.
The problem with the stock CAS working with some of the aftermarket EMS units out there is the signal at low speeds.
A magnetically triggered engine position sensor system induces an inherently low voltage signal output at low RPM speeds.
At higher RPM's, voltage significantly rises.
Usually, it's a fine combination of voltage signal gain control and filtering that allows for the EMS to see a "clean" signal.
Even my Haltech E8 has some trouble with cranking RPM's every once in a while...
What you can do on your part is to:
1) spec out the magnet sensors to make sure they are "within" spec
I think there is a resistance spec given in the FSM?
2) Adjust the magnetic sensors to get as close to the gear teeth as possible
Most people don't know this, but you can adjust the position of the two mag sensors in the CAS.
Be careful how you adjust them, because if the (gear) teeth *HITS* the mag sensor, the mag sensor can get ruined to the point where you need to replace it.
So, adjust them as close as possible without hitting anything.
Keep in mind that the CAS spins to a pretty high RPM - half speed, so ~4KRPM at redline? - so adjust for deviation at that high speed!
3) KEEP YOUR WIRES AWAY FROM ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS - ESPECIALLY THE ALTERNATOR AND SPARK PLUGS / WIRES / COILS (if relocated)
Alternators actually produce AC (before being rectified to DC), so it can spit out nasty RFI due to the AC waves.
I know this can be challenging, especially for FC's due to the location of the stock alternator and the CAS...
The ignition system is generating wave spikes over 10,000 volts!
Keep ignition input wires away from the entire ignition system...
Another thing that most people don't think about is to keep everything away from your engine grounds.
Remember, it's all DC voltage!
That spark plug discharge has to go somewhere, so it's still passing current through the engine grounds...
For most cases, keeping the engine grounds away from the top of the engine (in most cases for ignition input wires in most installations) is usually the standard case.
4) Run additional shielding on your ignition input wires
Some people will run pieces of aluminum foil - not the prettiest.
They have dedicated metal (copper?) shielding tape if you got the money.
If you can get an o-scope to watch your ignition input signal, you can actually see what's happening, and if any of the above helps in your case...
It might come down to not adjusting the ignition input gains / filters for a clean signal for the EMS unit to interpret.
-Ted
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