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djmtsu · 02-12-2008, 09:51 PM

What is this little black box with a single wire and a small metal tab that is mounted near or on the clutch slave cylinder?

It is the Condenser (capacitor) for the Oil Pressure Sender. It is needed to protect the oil pressure gauge from burning out in the event of sender failure, and for smoothing any erratic pluses from the sender.

My RX-7 rev's up to 3000 RPM every time I start it when cold
Yep, part of the accelerated warm up process. Start the car with the clutch pressed in, and the car in gear if you don't want it to do that.

My car doesn't start:

Remember when starting a fuel injected car you should never pump or press the accelerator pedal, but if it won't start it is probably flooded, Hold the accelerator pedal all the way down while cranking, do not pump the pedal. If it still doesn't start after a few tries, Then remove the EGI fuse and crank a couple more times, then re-install the fuse and try starting again. If then the car still fails to start it then you need to remove and clean the spark plugs, put in a teaspoon of good quality 20W50 motor oil or a teaspoon of ATF into the lower sparkplug holes, re-install the spark plugs and try again. Make sure you change your oil after you have started and run the car ASAP.

I just got my car and I want to make it faster, what are the first modifications I should do?
Do a full 60K tune up, replacing all the fluids (including brake, clutch, tranny, engine oil, coolant, and rear end lube), spark plugs and cables, all filters (including fuel, oil and air), belts, any hoses that are leaking or bulging, and the O2 sensor. In addition if the car is more than 10 years old or has more than 120K miles on it, the Pulsation Dampener (or pimary fuel rail and integrated Pulsation Dampener on 89-91 FCs) should be also replaced.

I have this hesitation whenever I accelerate right around 3500-4000 RPM
The dreaded 3800 RPM hesitation is cause 90% of the time by poor ground connections between the engine, the battery, and the car. Clean or replace all the under hood ground connections. On 86 model year cars , replacing/regrounding the pressure sensor's ground wire has helped (do not re-ground a 87 or later model year). If there is still a problem after that, look at cleaning the fuel injectors and (on a N/A) that your 5th/6th ports are operating correctly.

My idle sucks or is erratic
Most likely the TPS is out of adjustment, but here is a further article to help:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html

I think my engine has been overheated. How can I check to see if the coolant seals are good?
Fill coolant system ALL THE WAY UP (engine cold). Make sure that the fluid level is as high as you can get it. Leave the filler cap off. Remove the EGI fuse. Crank the motor (it should not start). If you get a LARGE amount of coolant coming out of the coolant fill, its safe to assume your coolant seals are blown. Also, a good indication is a fuel/exhaust smell in the coolant.

Do I need to upgrade my fuel injectors in my NA?
Most likely, no. The stock NA fuel system can support up to about 250HP, which you will not be anywhere near unless you are running a big bridge port or a peripheral port. The stock NA actually runs quite rich, so you will see some gains by leaning out the mixture quite a bit. Adding larger injectors is just going to cost you power and waste gas.

What size injectors does my RX-7 use? What colour are they?
Year Engine Plug Size Colour Part #
84-85 13B NA, low square center, 680cc, orange, 195500-0900
86-87 13B NA, low square center, 460cc, red, 195500-1350
86-87 13B Turbo, low square center, 550cc, tan, 195500-1370
88 13B NA, high square offset, 460cc, purple, 195500-1350
88 13B Turbo, high square offset, 550cc, purple, 195500-1370
89-91 13B NA, high oval center, 460cc, red, 195500-2010
89-91 13B Turbo, high oval center, 550cc, purple, 195500-2020

My engine cuts out when turning, but there is plenty of gas... whats wrong?
Fuel tank sock is dirty and needs to be cleaned or replaced, and or the baffles in the fuel tank are rusted away.

How long does a rotary engine run? Do I need to rebuild my engine?
Most 13Bs can last over 150-200K miles, while most 13BT engines usually last 125-175K miles, but remember that regular proper maintenance for the engines entire life is required for higher lifespan.

Can I swap a Turbo engine/Jspec engine/13BT/etc into my Non Turbo?
Yes, check these links:

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...conversion.htm

How do I add a turbo to my NA 13B?
What Turbo kits can I add onto my non turbo RX-7?
There are no longer kits formally made at the time of this post, however there are companies from time to time that do make available non turbo to Turbo Kits. Because most of these companies stop building the kits, or go out of business in short time, it is impossible to keep active links for them.

Most people that turbo a non turbo make their own kits:
Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold with spacer, NA intakes and NA ECU:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm

Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold, intakes, ECU:
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=37694

Turbo-NA Forum:
http://www.aaroncake.net/forum/forum...boc harged+NA

Will a 3rd Gen RX-7 (FD) twin turbo engine (13B-REW) fit in my 2nd gen RX-7?
The simple answer is No! The motor mounts are in different locations as well as other issues; however if you have enough time and money it can be done. Much of the project will be custom fabricating all the systems that attach to the engine such as the exhaust, intercooler setup, cooling system and wiring. A standalone EMS is almost required and it is very difficult to control the sequential turbos. Most people go to a single turbo because of this. In general this swap is not worth the time and trouble unless you plan on making more then 450 HP.

Here is a basic write up: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/FD3S/rew.html

Can I put the RX-8 engine (Renesis) in the 2nd gen?
Well, technically yes. But it is not a simple bolt-in swap. The Renesis uses different mounts, and an entirely different ECU and wiring harness. Anything can be done, but this is much more complicated then swapping any 2nd gen engine into the car. Lots of fabrication, wiring and other things must be done to support this engine. It is generally easier (and probably cheaper) to swap in the 20B three rotor, or the 13B turbo from the Turbo II.

I want to replace my rotary engine with a piston motor, what can I do?
Some people have done that, but it is generally not covered or even recommended to be brought up here in the 2nd Gen Sections, but rather in the Other Engine Section of this board. There are also other websites out there that cater to helping conversion issues.

How much Horsepower did my car come with from the factory?
At the Flywheel ratings:
86-88 NA = 146 HP @ 6500 RPM w/ 138 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
86-88 Turbo = 182 @ 6500 RPM w/ 183 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
89-91 NA = 160 HP @ 7000 RPM w/ 140 Ft/lb @ 4000 RPM
89-91 Turbo = 200-202 @ 6500 RPM w/ 196 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
Infini IV = 215 @ 6500 RPM w/ 206 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM

What should I look for when buying a 2nd Gen RX-7?
Non Turbo: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy1.htm
Turbo: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy2.htm
General: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/h2b.html

I don't want to buy a shop manual for my car, is there a place where I can still find out the information from one
Shop manuals for both series can be found on-line at:
http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html

or (86-88)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/
and (89-91)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/
89-91 Wiring only:
http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/S5_wiring/

What kind of gas mileage does the FC get on average? What can I do to increase mileage?
The FC is a sports car, not a Geo Metro. Therefore, mileage on average seems to hover around 15-18 MPG city, and 23-26 MPG highway. If you are getting less, you either have a heavy foot or your car needs a tuneup.

As for increasing mileage, the first thing that needs to be done is making sure the car is in good tune. Do a full tuneup including plugs, wires, fluids, filters, timing, TPS adjustment and everything specified for the 60K tuneup (see Haynes/Factory service manual). Learn to drive with less of a heavy foot. Accelerate slowly, coast in neutral to stops, and keep the revs below 3800. A vacuum gauge helps (drive for most vacuum), as well as an A/F gauge (try to keep it in closed loop). You can get some great mileage if you are patient.

How long does a rotary engine run? Do I need to rebuild my engine?
Most 13Bs can last over 150-200K miles, while most 13BT engines usually last 125-175K miles, but remember that regular proper maintenance for the engines entire life is required for higher lifespan.

How is the FC in the winter? Is it safe to drive? How does it handle the snow?
Just fine actually. If you know how to drive, driving the FC is like driving any other RWD vehicle. A good set of snow tires is important, but there is nothing fundamentally "wrong" with the FC that makes it a poor winter car. Remember that with like any other light, RWD car, you need to be easy on the throttle and clutch. Take a winter driving course if you are unsure. Also, make sure the car is in good tune. Cold weather can make small mechanical problems into large mechanical problems very quickly. If you live in an area that uses salt on the roads, then it is very important to have the car undercoated (Krown, etc.) every year. Salt eats RX-7s. Aside from that, winter driving can be fun if done safely. Many of us in Canada drive our RX-7s year around.

02-12-2008, 09:51 PM	#3
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 22	What is this little black box with a single wire and a small metal tab that is mounted near or on the clutch slave cylinder? It is the Condenser (capacitor) for the Oil Pressure Sender. It is needed to protect the oil pressure gauge from burning out in the event of sender failure, and for smoothing any erratic pluses from the sender. My RX-7 rev's up to 3000 RPM every time I start it when cold Yep, part of the accelerated warm up process. Start the car with the clutch pressed in, and the car in gear if you don't want it to do that. My car doesn't start: Remember when starting a fuel injected car you should never pump or press the accelerator pedal, but if it won't start it is probably flooded, Hold the accelerator pedal all the way down while cranking, do not pump the pedal. If it still doesn't start after a few tries, Then remove the EGI fuse and crank a couple more times, then re-install the fuse and try starting again. If then the car still fails to start it then you need to remove and clean the spark plugs, put in a teaspoon of good quality 20W50 motor oil or a teaspoon of ATF into the lower sparkplug holes, re-install the spark plugs and try again. Make sure you change your oil after you have started and run the car ASAP. I just got my car and I want to make it faster, what are the first modifications I should do? Do a full 60K tune up, replacing all the fluids (including brake, clutch, tranny, engine oil, coolant, and rear end lube), spark plugs and cables, all filters (including fuel, oil and air), belts, any hoses that are leaking or bulging, and the O2 sensor. In addition if the car is more than 10 years old or has more than 120K miles on it, the Pulsation Dampener (or pimary fuel rail and integrated Pulsation Dampener on 89-91 FCs) should be also replaced. I have this hesitation whenever I accelerate right around 3500-4000 RPM The dreaded 3800 RPM hesitation is cause 90% of the time by poor ground connections between the engine, the battery, and the car. Clean or replace all the under hood ground connections. On 86 model year cars , replacing/regrounding the pressure sensor's ground wire has helped (do not re-ground a 87 or later model year). If there is still a problem after that, look at cleaning the fuel injectors and (on a N/A) that your 5th/6th ports are operating correctly. My idle sucks or is erratic Most likely the TPS is out of adjustment, but here is a further article to help: http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html I think my engine has been overheated. How can I check to see if the coolant seals are good? Fill coolant system ALL THE WAY UP (engine cold). Make sure that the fluid level is as high as you can get it. Leave the filler cap off. Remove the EGI fuse. Crank the motor (it should not start). If you get a LARGE amount of coolant coming out of the coolant fill, its safe to assume your coolant seals are blown. Also, a good indication is a fuel/exhaust smell in the coolant. Do I need to upgrade my fuel injectors in my NA? Most likely, no. The stock NA fuel system can support up to about 250HP, which you will not be anywhere near unless you are running a big bridge port or a peripheral port. The stock NA actually runs quite rich, so you will see some gains by leaning out the mixture quite a bit. Adding larger injectors is just going to cost you power and waste gas. What size injectors does my RX-7 use? What colour are they? Year Engine Plug Size Colour Part # 84-85 13B NA, low square center, 680cc, orange, 195500-0900 86-87 13B NA, low square center, 460cc, red, 195500-1350 86-87 13B Turbo, low square center, 550cc, tan, 195500-1370 88 13B NA, high square offset, 460cc, purple, 195500-1350 88 13B Turbo, high square offset, 550cc, purple, 195500-1370 89-91 13B NA, high oval center, 460cc, red, 195500-2010 89-91 13B Turbo, high oval center, 550cc, purple, 195500-2020 My engine cuts out when turning, but there is plenty of gas... whats wrong? Fuel tank sock is dirty and needs to be cleaned or replaced, and or the baffles in the fuel tank are rusted away. How long does a rotary engine run? Do I need to rebuild my engine? Most 13Bs can last over 150-200K miles, while most 13BT engines usually last 125-175K miles, but remember that regular proper maintenance for the engines entire life is required for higher lifespan. Can I swap a Turbo engine/Jspec engine/13BT/etc into my Non Turbo? Yes, check these links: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...conversion.htm How do I add a turbo to my NA 13B? What Turbo kits can I add onto my non turbo RX-7? There are no longer kits formally made at the time of this post, however there are companies from time to time that do make available non turbo to Turbo Kits. Because most of these companies stop building the kits, or go out of business in short time, it is impossible to keep active links for them. Most people that turbo a non turbo make their own kits: Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold with spacer, NA intakes and NA ECU: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold, intakes, ECU: http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=37694 Turbo-NA Forum: http://www.aaroncake.net/forum/forum...boc harged+NA Will a 3rd Gen RX-7 (FD) twin turbo engine (13B-REW) fit in my 2nd gen RX-7? The simple answer is No! The motor mounts are in different locations as well as other issues; however if you have enough time and money it can be done. Much of the project will be custom fabricating all the systems that attach to the engine such as the exhaust, intercooler setup, cooling system and wiring. A standalone EMS is almost required and it is very difficult to control the sequential turbos. Most people go to a single turbo because of this. In general this swap is not worth the time and trouble unless you plan on making more then 450 HP. Here is a basic write up: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/FD3S/rew.html Can I put the RX-8 engine (Renesis) in the 2nd gen? Well, technically yes. But it is not a simple bolt-in swap. The Renesis uses different mounts, and an entirely different ECU and wiring harness. Anything can be done, but this is much more complicated then swapping any 2nd gen engine into the car. Lots of fabrication, wiring and other things must be done to support this engine. It is generally easier (and probably cheaper) to swap in the 20B three rotor, or the 13B turbo from the Turbo II. I want to replace my rotary engine with a piston motor, what can I do? Some people have done that, but it is generally not covered or even recommended to be brought up here in the 2nd Gen Sections, but rather in the Other Engine Section of this board. There are also other websites out there that cater to helping conversion issues. How much Horsepower did my car come with from the factory? At the Flywheel ratings: 86-88 NA = 146 HP @ 6500 RPM w/ 138 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM 86-88 Turbo = 182 @ 6500 RPM w/ 183 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM 89-91 NA = 160 HP @ 7000 RPM w/ 140 Ft/lb @ 4000 RPM 89-91 Turbo = 200-202 @ 6500 RPM w/ 196 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM Infini IV = 215 @ 6500 RPM w/ 206 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM What should I look for when buying a 2nd Gen RX-7? Non Turbo: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy1.htm Turbo: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy2.htm General: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/h2b.html I don't want to buy a shop manual for my car, is there a place where I can still find out the information from one Shop manuals for both series can be found on-line at: http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html or (86-88) http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/ and (89-91) http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/ 89-91 Wiring only: http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/S5_wiring/ What kind of gas mileage does the FC get on average? What can I do to increase mileage? The FC is a sports car, not a Geo Metro. Therefore, mileage on average seems to hover around 15-18 MPG city, and 23-26 MPG highway. If you are getting less, you either have a heavy foot or your car needs a tuneup. As for increasing mileage, the first thing that needs to be done is making sure the car is in good tune. Do a full tuneup including plugs, wires, fluids, filters, timing, TPS adjustment and everything specified for the 60K tuneup (see Haynes/Factory service manual). Learn to drive with less of a heavy foot. Accelerate slowly, coast in neutral to stops, and keep the revs below 3800. A vacuum gauge helps (drive for most vacuum), as well as an A/F gauge (try to keep it in closed loop). You can get some great mileage if you are patient. How long does a rotary engine run? Do I need to rebuild my engine? Most 13Bs can last over 150-200K miles, while most 13BT engines usually last 125-175K miles, but remember that regular proper maintenance for the engines entire life is required for higher lifespan. How is the FC in the winter? Is it safe to drive? How does it handle the snow? Just fine actually. If you know how to drive, driving the FC is like driving any other RWD vehicle. A good set of snow tires is important, but there is nothing fundamentally "wrong" with the FC that makes it a poor winter car. Remember that with like any other light, RWD car, you need to be easy on the throttle and clutch. Take a winter driving course if you are unsure. Also, make sure the car is in good tune. Cold weather can make small mechanical problems into large mechanical problems very quickly. If you live in an area that uses salt on the roads, then it is very important to have the car undercoated (Krown, etc.) every year. Salt eats RX-7s. Aside from that, winter driving can be fun if done safely. Many of us in Canada drive our RX-7s year around. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Last edited by djmtsu; 02-12-2008 at 09:54 PM.