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vex · 05-14-2009, 06:50 PM

Now I needed a way to reject the heat from the additional turbo, so I went with a racing radiator from AFCO (which has been hashed out in another thread--see sig). The radiator ran me around 250 and is not a direct bolt on application. Custom work needed to be done. And while I was in there I went ahead and altered a lot of the front: Moved the oil cooler forward, made a mounting location for the intercooler, redid the hood latch anchor, etc.

Around this time I also noticed that my engine had let the rear casting go, so I decided to spend another 800 bucks getting new apex seals, and a new rear housing and rebuilding it. While it was apart I decided to also port it to actually be able to use more of the turbo's abilities. So another 70 bucks later I have a template and a few other odds and ends to port the engine.

so far the total is around 2k+/-. Now lets look at fuel: You'll need a higher capacity fuel pump, bigger injectors, and maybe some new fuel lines, and a rising rate FPR. Fuel pumps can be had off an FD for fairly inexpensive, if you buy new you spend a little more depending on capacity. Injectors can range from around 50 bucks for a pair, to 400 for a set. How much fuel you want to dump in is completely dependent on your needs and wants. I currently have 550/720 which should be okay for awhile. If or when I want more power I'll get bigger injectors, but I'll have to pay for it. Next add in the FPR and make sure it's a 1:1 if you're running gas. no sense in trying to flood out your engine. Expect to pay around 4-500 for just those three things. I went a little above and beyond to equalize pressure through each individual bank of injectors and went with a parallel fuel set up instead of series. This makes trouble shooting a lot easier. Expect to pay an additional 100-200 depending on how much you can do on your own.

So now we're up to 2.6k+/-. And we still have no way to route the air from the turbo to the intake. This is where you'll have to get creative and you can expect to pay anywhere from 200-500 dollars on just the things needed for the piping. If you have a mandrel bender and access to a tig welder you can get some fairly beautiful bends and come out looking like Brians engine bay. I unfortunately didn't have that ability so I ended up around 300-400 once all is said and done.

3k, and we haven't even done the turbo manifold yet, let alone the exhaust. The turbo manifold can go anyway you choose. I went completely custom and built my own (probably cost me around 200-300 without the labor price for a tig... with a tig factored in at about 60/hour that would probably be an extra 200-300 bucks). So if you can do the welding on your own, you should be able to pick up all the supplies and flanges you need for under 200 bucks. If not, expect to pay 300+ for a custom manifold. If you buy an off the shelf unit, you may have to compromise somewhere in an effort to make it work with the turbo. But if you can find a manifold to fit a larger turbo without huge modifications to the engine or chasis you should be golden. We'll say it'll cost you around 200 to pick one up.

3.2k. Now if you don't mind using a lot of your current exhaust you can get away with just getting a down pipe which shouldn't be all that expensive unless you're making it out of 316 stainless. 304 should be slightly less, but should still be around 100 bucks or so. I highly doubt you'll be able to find a downpipe that will mate exactly right and so you'll have to spend money getting it altered to work.

3.3k

Assuming you have all the adapters ready to install and hook up the turbo you can probably start mounting them and getting them all set up. You'll probably be looking at around 500 give or take on adapters and flanges

3.8k

Now lets look at gauges. This of course is completely dependent on what you want, how accurate you want, and if you're willing to put in that time for it. To get a full sensor suite you can expect to pay over 1000 bucks. If you pick and choose you may be able to get that price down to 500 if you're lucky. Brian went with an AIM digital Dash which for the price is great since it leaves a lot of the real estate of the dash open for important always on gauges. The gauges you'll definitely need: boost, oil pressure, water temp, AFR, and if you're willing (and I highly suggest these) front and rear EGT probes.

4.8k

Now lets look at actually being able to control the fuel (and spark if you really want to). You have full on stand alones ranging from 1.2k up to 8k. You have piggy back systems such as the SAFC which range from 100-400 but you don't get spark control. You can go RTek (which is what I did) and get both fuel and spark control for around 400 bucks. We'll assume you have a little more money and take a median stand alone system at the price of 3.5k (enough to get you an M400)

8.3k

Well you now have all the parts +/- a few different little things necessary to hook it all up. So just for safe measure you'll have around 1-2k for little things and mistakes. Nuts, bolts, gaskets, silicon, hoses, clamps, fluids, etc.

9.3k

Now depending on how much of the labor you do yourself you could easily be looking at only a few hundred dollars to over 1k in just labor alone. We'll assume your somewhat mechanically inclined and have the will and know how to build a lot of the things yourself.

10k.

This is by no means a cheap endeavor. Do not expect to get all the parts and be able to throw them on in a weekend. Especially if you're custom making a lot of parts. I originally planned to have my car down for 1 month without knowing that my engine was toasted. When I found that out, I figured another month would be enough time for me to do a rebuild and get it all installed. That worked only so well. I spent a lot of time just trying to coordinate with other fabricators and welders in an attempt to get it accomplished. Which ended up setting me back another month.

3 months it took me to completely re-do my engine bay, engine, turbo, exhaust, and all parts related there to.

I'll tell you if it was worth it when I break in the engine and start hitting boost. I'll tell you right now though, I'm spooling close to 3k with only very light throttle (hit 0inHG). I imagine I'll be very able to spool almost directly off idle if I put my foot down hard enough.

Sorry for the long post, but you asked a question that opens up a lot of other things. If you would like clarification please be specific with what you want to know ;

Enjoy the read?

05-14-2009, 06:50 PM	#9
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	Now I needed a way to reject the heat from the additional turbo, so I went with a racing radiator from AFCO (which has been hashed out in another thread--see sig). The radiator ran me around 250 and is not a direct bolt on application. Custom work needed to be done. And while I was in there I went ahead and altered a lot of the front: Moved the oil cooler forward, made a mounting location for the intercooler, redid the hood latch anchor, etc. Around this time I also noticed that my engine had let the rear casting go, so I decided to spend another 800 bucks getting new apex seals, and a new rear housing and rebuilding it. While it was apart I decided to also port it to actually be able to use more of the turbo's abilities. So another 70 bucks later I have a template and a few other odds and ends to port the engine. so far the total is around 2k+/-. Now lets look at fuel: You'll need a higher capacity fuel pump, bigger injectors, and maybe some new fuel lines, and a rising rate FPR. Fuel pumps can be had off an FD for fairly inexpensive, if you buy new you spend a little more depending on capacity. Injectors can range from around 50 bucks for a pair, to 400 for a set. How much fuel you want to dump in is completely dependent on your needs and wants. I currently have 550/720 which should be okay for awhile. If or when I want more power I'll get bigger injectors, but I'll have to pay for it. Next add in the FPR and make sure it's a 1:1 if you're running gas. no sense in trying to flood out your engine. Expect to pay around 4-500 for just those three things. I went a little above and beyond to equalize pressure through each individual bank of injectors and went with a parallel fuel set up instead of series. This makes trouble shooting a lot easier. Expect to pay an additional 100-200 depending on how much you can do on your own. So now we're up to 2.6k+/-. And we still have no way to route the air from the turbo to the intake. This is where you'll have to get creative and you can expect to pay anywhere from 200-500 dollars on just the things needed for the piping. If you have a mandrel bender and access to a tig welder you can get some fairly beautiful bends and come out looking like Brians engine bay. I unfortunately didn't have that ability so I ended up around 300-400 once all is said and done. 3k, and we haven't even done the turbo manifold yet, let alone the exhaust. The turbo manifold can go anyway you choose. I went completely custom and built my own (probably cost me around 200-300 without the labor price for a tig... with a tig factored in at about 60/hour that would probably be an extra 200-300 bucks). So if you can do the welding on your own, you should be able to pick up all the supplies and flanges you need for under 200 bucks. If not, expect to pay 300+ for a custom manifold. If you buy an off the shelf unit, you may have to compromise somewhere in an effort to make it work with the turbo. But if you can find a manifold to fit a larger turbo without huge modifications to the engine or chasis you should be golden. We'll say it'll cost you around 200 to pick one up. 3.2k. Now if you don't mind using a lot of your current exhaust you can get away with just getting a down pipe which shouldn't be all that expensive unless you're making it out of 316 stainless. 304 should be slightly less, but should still be around 100 bucks or so. I highly doubt you'll be able to find a downpipe that will mate exactly right and so you'll have to spend money getting it altered to work. 3.3k Assuming you have all the adapters ready to install and hook up the turbo you can probably start mounting them and getting them all set up. You'll probably be looking at around 500 give or take on adapters and flanges 3.8k Now lets look at gauges. This of course is completely dependent on what you want, how accurate you want, and if you're willing to put in that time for it. To get a full sensor suite you can expect to pay over 1000 bucks. If you pick and choose you may be able to get that price down to 500 if you're lucky. Brian went with an AIM digital Dash which for the price is great since it leaves a lot of the real estate of the dash open for important always on gauges. The gauges you'll definitely need: boost, oil pressure, water temp, AFR, and if you're willing (and I highly suggest these) front and rear EGT probes. 4.8k Now lets look at actually being able to control the fuel (and spark if you really want to). You have full on stand alones ranging from 1.2k up to 8k. You have piggy back systems such as the SAFC which range from 100-400 but you don't get spark control. You can go RTek (which is what I did) and get both fuel and spark control for around 400 bucks. We'll assume you have a little more money and take a median stand alone system at the price of 3.5k (enough to get you an M400) 8.3k Well you now have all the parts +/- a few different little things necessary to hook it all up. So just for safe measure you'll have around 1-2k for little things and mistakes. Nuts, bolts, gaskets, silicon, hoses, clamps, fluids, etc. 9.3k Now depending on how much of the labor you do yourself you could easily be looking at only a few hundred dollars to over 1k in just labor alone. We'll assume your somewhat mechanically inclined and have the will and know how to build a lot of the things yourself. 10k. This is by no means a cheap endeavor. Do not expect to get all the parts and be able to throw them on in a weekend. Especially if you're custom making a lot of parts. I originally planned to have my car down for 1 month without knowing that my engine was toasted. When I found that out, I figured another month would be enough time for me to do a rebuild and get it all installed. That worked only so well. I spent a lot of time just trying to coordinate with other fabricators and welders in an attempt to get it accomplished. Which ended up setting me back another month. 3 months it took me to completely re-do my engine bay, engine, turbo, exhaust, and all parts related there to. I'll tell you if it was worth it when I break in the engine and start hitting boost. I'll tell you right now though, I'm spooling close to 3k with only very light throttle (hit 0inHG). I imagine I'll be very able to spool almost directly off idle if I put my foot down hard enough. Sorry for the long post, but you asked a question that opens up a lot of other things. If you would like clarification please be specific with what you want to know ; Enjoy the read? __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group